Tom Baker

Attached is a picture of the normal installation. It uses a section of straight 1" hose over a formed aluminum tube. On yours it appears that someone has replaced that with a formed rubber hose. I suppose it will work, but I don't think I would pass one like that without approval from the manufacture.

There are two different coolant hose arrangements for the CTLS that I have encountered. I don't think the second one is covered in the parts manual, but it does use some 90° fittings. Post a picture if you can.

1. No real good way to flush the tank, but I would try and clean it the best you can with a rag on a stick. 2. One baffle 3. I assume you are talking about the one in the wing root. There are a couple different ways depending on the style of clamp. One requires drilling a hole in the wing root, the other is like performing surgery in a hole. I typically go the surgery route, but I have some specialty tools.

Well, I don't see anything glaring in your installation. Have you verified the orifice in the top banjo bolt is clear, and that air can flow through the line to the gascolator?

Andy, post a picture of the top of your engine showing the fuel lines.

I'm not sure about the Super Sport, but the CTLSi I have seen the fuel pressure sensor is down stream of the fuel filter. To me a clogged filter in this situation should decrease pressure. I had one customer who was getting consistent high pressure warnings, and replacement of the fuel pressure regulator fixed his issues.

I have done hose changes without removing the engine, but not on a CT. In my opinion it will take less time to do the hose change with removing the engine. Also like Andy said you can't replace the engine isolators without removing it.

The autopilot is a TruTrak Digiflight 2 vs, with the CT pilot face plate. I found the manual on the Bendix king website. 8300-008-DigiFlight-II-Series-Autopilot-Installation-Manual.pdf

I sent one to Airtime for a repair, and they did not provide a MRA. I have someone local do repairs like this now. He has the third one this year to weld. All three have had the same issue, a small crack just inside the factory weld for the internal baffles in the muffler. I think there is a flange that is causing stress. All were inside the cabin heat muff. Make sure you have a good carbon monoxide detector, especially when you are using the heater.

I normally use this from the National Weather Service. https://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=38.73&lon=-88.18&unit=0&lg=english&FcstType=graphical

The blueish coolant is likely the OEM that the airplane was shipped with from Europe. I am not certain what it looks like when there is a leak and it dries, but with the location I would suspect a small coolant leak from the hose at the spring clamp. I have seen this kind of leak before when the hose has been freshly installed. Normally a reseating of the clamp will fix it. Also it is unlikely to become a catastrophic failure, just a nuisance.

How new is the airplane,and what color is your coolant?

Thanks to all those who showed up CT fliers and all the other too.

I replaced his with a ELL80is from JMH Innovations. I don't know how many airplanes used that style, but his was the only one I've seen.

I have only been working on them since 2007, and my first rubber replacement was late 2010. I only recall SAE sized hoses factory attached hose on Rotax supplied fuel pumps. Flight Design of course used metric hoses for anything they factory installed.