NC Bill Posted August 30, 2011 Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 My landing light bulb was broken during an oil change. A mx unfamiliar with the CT didn't notice it when recowling the plane. I ordered a new one. When I had it installed I learned it is glued onto the lens and to replace it you had to unglue it. As expected the lens broke when separated from the bulb. Fortunately I was then near LOCKWOOD and bought a new one for around $25 and was good to go. Within 3 weeks I noticed the lens was cracked. Within a month the light was out. Before I order a new lens is there a better/cheaper alternative that lasts longer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chanik Posted August 30, 2011 Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 Mine cracked before I replaced it as well. I used an LED light sans lens since this glass is only needed for a halogen and it just loses light. There is just one really good one out there I found: The Aurora V5 http://stores.touchstoneled.com/-strse-30/Aurora-V5-7w-38d/Detail.bok This one might also be good, but I haven't tried it http://www.mr16usa.com/catalog/product/view/id/22923/s/philips-enduraled-7w-mr16-gu5-3-light-bulb/category/1701/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tad Olmsted Posted August 30, 2011 Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 Guys, I inquired FD Germany about coming up with a mod for cutting out the old style and molding in the new LED. They said it was a great idea, but they had already beat me to the punch. If anyone want to do this, I can make it happen. Say goodbye to those darn broken lenses and bulbs. Plus, the new style landing light can also be an anti collision light. COOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Bill Posted August 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 Kurt - Confirming - the bulb you recommend is a simple "plug & play" replacement inside the cowl for the "original light bulb & lens". Doesn't require anything else? Does it have any appreciable effect on air speeed? TIA! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chanik Posted August 30, 2011 Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 It drops right in. Recessed in that little 2" hole, I can't imagine how it could affect drag measurably. Initially I did it to get rid of the huge red low voltage warning I would get at idle when I ran the light. Great distraction on landing final in the dark. I sort of fixed that with my voltage regulator mod but it is nice to be able to run the light all the time since it is just 7W, down from 80W. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tad Olmsted Posted August 30, 2011 Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 Kurt, Not to be a tattle tail, but is there a LOA for this replacement? I can't legally install one without a LOA. Having said that, this would be a HUGE improvement!!!! I want to switch out all my customers ASAP if it is approved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FredG Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 Regarding LED landing lights, check out - http://www.amazon.com/ALTLED-Listed-Lumen-Socket-Chipset/dp/B004KZAA4W/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1306551261&sr=8-15 This neutral white LED lamp uses 7 watts. Same base as standard CTsw landing light (accepts stock lamp electrical connector). Flat on bulb side so it can be put under the cover glass used on the conventional bulb. I hear that when installed with glass cover it may need slightly longer mounting screws. Produces about 2/3 the light output of the 100 watt incandescent bulb while using less than one tenth the current. No LOA that I know of. For informational purposes, only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 The reason some of you are having these replacement lens break is because of these: Over tightening the lens retainer screws. Just barely snug them. The silicone adhesive is also a soft buffer is is the reason you don't need to over tighten the retainer screws. Use the silicone on both sides of the lens. It doesn't need a lot, but it does need it to cushion it from the stress of the mount. You can also sand the sharp edges so they are beveled and this will help[ a little more. This should help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chanik Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 Regarding LED landing lights, check out - http://www.amazon.com/ALTLED-Listed-Lumen-Socket-Chipset/dp/B004KZAA4W/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1306551261&sr=8-15 This neutral white LED lamp uses 7 watts. Same base as standard CTsw landing light (accepts stock lamp electrical connector). Flat on bulb side so it can be put under the cover glass used on the conventional bulb. I hear that when installed with glass cover it may need slightly longer mounting screws. Produces about 2/3 the light output of the 100 watt incandescent bulb while using less than one tenth the current. No LOA that I know of. For informational purposes, only. Another good source. ALT makes the Aurora so this is basically the same lamp. True white is a bit brighter though than warm white. I don't think you need for an LOA on something like a bulb replacement. But as an ELSA owner; I don't needs no stinkin' LOAs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josjonkers Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 Regarding LED landing lights, check out - http://www.amazon.com/ALTLED-Listed-Lumen-Socket-Chipset/dp/B004KZAA4W/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1306551261&sr=8-15 This neutral white LED lamp uses 7 watts. Same base as standard CTsw landing light (accepts stock lamp electrical connector). Flat on bulb side so it can be put under the cover glass used on the conventional bulb. I hear that when installed with glass cover it may need slightly longer mounting screws. Produces about 2/3 the light output of the 100 watt incandescent bulb while using less than one tenth the current. No LOA that I know of. For informational purposes, only. This is the one I installed about a year ago and works well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Bill Posted September 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2011 Mine cracked before I replaced it as well. I used an LED light sans lens since this glass is only needed for a halogen and it just loses light. Kurt - Just making sure my French is "au currant" before I try to replace my broken landing light. I bought the LED replacement. Now simply remove the old light and cracked lens and substitute the LED, and no lens is required, right? Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chanik Posted September 12, 2011 Report Share Posted September 12, 2011 That's it. I also applied a thin bead of silicone clear sealent where the plastic LED lens assembly meets the inner metal ring. It seems like it is the only area where rain might weap back into the LED PCB. It's all pretty well sealed as it comes but I figure it was an easy prophylaxis. Anyway mine is oabout 1 year on the plane still works great. I was thinking of adding a flasher circuit to use it as an anti-collision light all the time since LEDs don't mind constant cycling. It would kill a halogen and draw too much power anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Runtoeat Posted September 12, 2011 Report Share Posted September 12, 2011 Bill and Kurt. Curious what the LED light looks like after installation. Any good pictures of it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Bill Posted September 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2011 Mine will be installed at the next oil change. Maybe next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Bill Posted September 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2011 This work? It had just been turned off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug G. Posted April 29, 2012 Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 I am wondering about the LED replacement lights. It looks like they all have the LEDs in the center and cooling fins around the outside. Is having this extra opening in the cowl a problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Bill Posted April 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 Haven't noticed any differences in speeds or EMS #s in 8 months. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chanik Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 I took the opportunity, while Jeremy was changing out my little tires for Matcos and Monster Retreads, to retrofit my landing light to one I have been working on over the last year or so in my spare time. I wanted a much brighter MR16 LED than can be found in the market and I wanted sealed with 3 modes. And I didn't want to change the wiring or light fixture. So this one switches modes with toggle presses and, at 28W, is >4x brighter than the best MR16 LED lamp I had found, the Aurora 7W. It's a pretty tight 10deg pattern too so it illuminates downrange much better. FInally I have a landing light that kicks butt. Mainly I can get away with so much power because in the cowl there is copious airflow to cool the thing, even at idle. A bulb like the Aurora needs to be designed to sit in a stuffy, still air soffett.The pix attached basically show how this thing fits and works. http://www.johnea.net/~kurt/Klight.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mocfly Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 How do I get one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chanik Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 Turns out I made 5. It's a miniscule market so I'm not likely to make more. Few planes use the MR-16 as a landing bulb as it it too anemic. Mine is based on this head: and they are right, it is underdriven and more like 1800Lm, not the 3800Lm claimed (pretty normal overclaim for a chinese based product).I gutted the crappy driver and pump the LEDs at 2.5Amps each switchered down from 12V with the toggle switch based control scheme, thermally protected so I end up with 2800 Lumens measured. The lamp is pushed in from the front and clamped in from the rear with the hose clamps just to be sure it can't pop out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tip Posted January 9, 2013 Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 NC Bill, what bulb did you end up using? Did you use a glass lens and how's it been workings for you. I've had several cracked lenses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted January 10, 2013 Report Share Posted January 10, 2013 The lens's will crack if over tightened or a spec of dirt gets under the lip and you snug it down. Put a small bead of silicone around the edges and just barely seat the screws and that should take care of your problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Bill Posted January 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2013 Tip - I can't find a receipt, but memory tells me it was the bulb Kurt recommended. http://stores.touchs...-38d/Detail.bok It goes in without a lens. Mine has worked worked without issues for 18 months and thru 2 annuals and numerous oil changes. Whereas the old style was broken at both oil changes before I converted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liltaka Posted September 20, 2013 Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 How about below? http://www.amazon.com/Eco-friendly-Brightness-Adjustable-MR16-Light/dp/B00ENYK720/ref=sr_1_18?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1379641364&sr=1-18 720 lumens is pretty high for this little bulb... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opticsguy Posted September 23, 2013 Report Share Posted September 23, 2013 30 degree beam, 720 lumens (if real) looks pretty good. I have a 400 lumen LED now and it works pretty well. The OEM 100W MR16 was probably 900-1000 lumens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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