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Replacing the shock mounts


Douglas Bohnert

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Posted

All,

 

Am going to replace the shock mounts on a 912ULS mounted to a CTSW. Looking at these buggers the nut is easily accessed and removed but the bolts back right up to the firewall. I could barely get my finger over the bolt head it is so close to the firewall.

 

Any ideas or suggestions on how to remove these? What about support for the engine?

 

post-451-0-10764800-1319317729_thumb.jpg

Posted

technically a mechanic never memorizes torque values and always has the appropriate manual open to what he/she is working on. However, after R&R'ing a crap load of engines, I can even tell you what size sockets, crows feet and wrenches you will need. Give me a shout if you can't get Roger and one of us will steer you in the right direction.

Posted

I just got hex head bolts to replace the cap bolts, from FDUSA. Matt had all the part no's . Using hex head will make it easier toreplace the engine mounts next time. I also noted the manual says only an FD service center can do engine pull. Sigh.closest for me is Grant's Pass OR. Have to give them a call.

  • 5 weeks later...
Posted

All,

 

Am going to replace the shock mounts on a 912ULS mounted to a CTSW. Looking at these buggers the nut is easily accessed and removed but the bolts back right up to the firewall. I could barely get my finger over the bolt head it is so close to the firewall.

 

Any ideas or suggestions on how to remove these? What about support for the engine?

 

post-451-0-10764800-1319317729_thumb.jpg

 

 

It's pretty difficult to get a Allen wrench on the lower two engine mount bolts, the trick I use is to invest in a pair of 5" vise lock pliers and clamp down on the collar cap at a 90 degree angle to the shank. With all the drag the bolt has on it with the engine weight, it requires very little force to keep the bolt from rotating so you dont need to crank down and the vise grips and damage the bolt. Once you change over to the hex bolts a stubby open-end does the trick.

 

I hang it with an engine lifter and a 1" strap looped thru the intake manifolds. Make sure you install it like a upside down V not a Triangle or the strap will get in your way of the accessorys on top of the engine.

Posted

I've purchased the new hex head bolts in anticipation of the rubber mount replacement. However, being an LSRM trained by by Briah Carpenter,

I go by-the-book. Engine pull is listed as needing a Flight Design Service center. I'll call a couple around the NW area, and see if I can do

an owner assisted job. I have all the parts.

It looks like some of the other hose access at the water pump, and fuel lines though the firewall will be much easier with the engine off.

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