Douglas Bohnert Posted October 22, 2011 Report Share Posted October 22, 2011 All, Am going to replace the shock mounts on a 912ULS mounted to a CTSW. Looking at these buggers the nut is easily accessed and removed but the bolts back right up to the firewall. I could barely get my finger over the bolt head it is so close to the firewall. Any ideas or suggestions on how to remove these? What about support for the engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted October 23, 2011 Report Share Posted October 23, 2011 Hi Doug, Pull the engine and change them all and be done with it. If you have someone help you that knows what's going on you can pull the engine in 1 hr. which is a lot faster than trying to mess with only two engine mounts. If you have any questions give me a call. Guys, With the pictures I have posted of these after 5 years it should make everyone want to yank them and replace them. There is damage to the ones you can't see, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Meade Posted October 23, 2011 Report Share Posted October 23, 2011 What level of maintenance is pulling the engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 Hi Jim, The level required is an LSRM-A or an A&P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Meade Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 Which manual prescribes how to pull the engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 Hi Jim, There isn't one. You can look at the items mounted to the firewall that goes to the engine and then start disconnecting them. You are welcome to call me if you want and I'll tell you what you need to do. I'll be at the hanger tomorrow flight testing different Sensenich props. Try my cell phone after 0900 Tucson time or call me tomorrow night at home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandpiper Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 Roger - what is the torque on the bolts? Are they all the same? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Meade Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 I thought if something wasn't in the manual we weren't supposed to do it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 Hi Jim, Technically your right. You need the approval of the Mfg and it should be in writing. If we really did that in the SLSA world then the mechanics out there would only be able to do half the work. Too many SLSA Mfg's really don't know the rules well and aren't willing to do all the work that would technically be required to 100% legal. If you are hoping all this will someday soon be in an SLSA manual it isn't going to happen and the MFG doesn't really want to have to give every individual mechanic a letter of authorization to do the things not in the manual. Do the best you can do with the tools given to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Meade Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 I suppose if you are an FD service center you are OK? I guess I think about the liability when I start getting outside the manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 Hi Jim, If you have any questions please give me a call. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tad Olmsted Posted October 27, 2011 Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 technically a mechanic never memorizes torque values and always has the appropriate manual open to what he/she is working on. However, after R&R'ing a crap load of engines, I can even tell you what size sockets, crows feet and wrenches you will need. Give me a shout if you can't get Roger and one of us will steer you in the right direction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMcCand - N248CT Posted October 30, 2011 Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 I just got hex head bolts to replace the cap bolts, from FDUSA. Matt had all the part no's . Using hex head will make it easier toreplace the engine mounts next time. I also noted the manual says only an FD service center can do engine pull. Sigh.closest for me is Grant's Pass OR. Have to give them a call. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tad Olmsted Posted October 30, 2011 Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 Always torque the nut unless specified different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandpiper Posted October 31, 2011 Report Share Posted October 31, 2011 Bill - makes you wanna go E-LSA!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy MacGregor Posted November 29, 2011 Report Share Posted November 29, 2011 All, Am going to replace the shock mounts on a 912ULS mounted to a CTSW. Looking at these buggers the nut is easily accessed and removed but the bolts back right up to the firewall. I could barely get my finger over the bolt head it is so close to the firewall. Any ideas or suggestions on how to remove these? What about support for the engine? It's pretty difficult to get a Allen wrench on the lower two engine mount bolts, the trick I use is to invest in a pair of 5" vise lock pliers and clamp down on the collar cap at a 90 degree angle to the shank. With all the drag the bolt has on it with the engine weight, it requires very little force to keep the bolt from rotating so you dont need to crank down and the vise grips and damage the bolt. Once you change over to the hex bolts a stubby open-end does the trick. I hang it with an engine lifter and a 1" strap looped thru the intake manifolds. Make sure you install it like a upside down V not a Triangle or the strap will get in your way of the accessorys on top of the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMcCand - N248CT Posted November 29, 2011 Report Share Posted November 29, 2011 I've purchased the new hex head bolts in anticipation of the rubber mount replacement. However, being an LSRM trained by by Briah Carpenter, I go by-the-book. Engine pull is listed as needing a Flight Design Service center. I'll call a couple around the NW area, and see if I can do an owner assisted job. I have all the parts. It looks like some of the other hose access at the water pump, and fuel lines though the firewall will be much easier with the engine off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted November 30, 2011 Report Share Posted November 30, 2011 Hi Bill, Removing the engine isn't that hard. I'm on my second engine pull in 3 days. Call FD and see if they will let you do this. Yes the hoses are easier to do with the engine off and it is the only way you can replace the engine mounts. I have yet to see a plane at my shop after 5 years that didn't need the engine mounts replaced. They're either cracked , deformed or crushed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.