Jim Meade Posted November 28, 2011 Report Share Posted November 28, 2011 I recently flew from Denver to eastern Iowa. The flight was initially in the clear at 7500, then 5500, then under a deck at 3,000. OAC in the clear was 3C and under the deck -3C. Oil temperature initially was about 175F, and under the deck got down to 150F. As a side note, the cabin temps with the heater wide open were a bit cooler than comfortable. I checked today and the cabin temp control does seem to be moving the flap properly. I have an oil thermostat I intend to install this winter when I do some other work. My impression is it will bring the oil up to about 190F where it is safe to operate, as in warming for takeoff, but it will not by itself really keep the oil at 200F or over where some would prefer to see it run. Comments on those two temps are welcome. If the oil thermostat is not the only or best answer, is air restriction an option? How large an air dam should be installed, where and how is it fastened on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bseager Posted November 28, 2011 Report Share Posted November 28, 2011 A strip of duct tape across top of radiator works well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted November 29, 2011 Report Share Posted November 29, 2011 Hi Jim, Like most of us do, put that 2" wide aluminum tape across the top part of the radiator. That should be enough. If not add another piece down another 1". As far as cabin heat. I can fly my plane on zero temps with only long pants and a short sleeve shirt and may still have to close the heater some. First I put clear plastic tape over the holes above your head. All of them including the fuel site tubes. Then tape over the back side of the wing spare pins. Then put a little foam in the front wing spare pin space. Now get some 3/8" wide soft foam insulation with one sticky side from the hardware store. Put this all the way around the door edge right next to our rubber door trim. Run it on the outside of the rubber trim edge. Once the cabin is completely sealed it is very warm and can sometimes get too hot. The key is to seal up the cabin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philip Welsch Posted November 29, 2011 Report Share Posted November 29, 2011 I don't think the thermostat is going to help. My LS has the thermostat and I don't see much above 180 F when air temps are below 40 F except at Vx climb. I have to use the tape for anything near 190 F in cruise (5000 - 5100 RPM). I also worry about the thermostat failing when air temps are warm. PRW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacques Posted November 29, 2011 Report Share Posted November 29, 2011 the warm air comes from the shroud around the muffler. This is NOT related with oil or water (heads) temperature. As Roger said, first you have to seal the cabin to keep that warm air inside...but....you may have the same problem I had ..which was the heater air box not opening enough. It was blocked by some kind of material (looks like rubber or plastic) and the ''flap'' couldn't open all the way. I think I was losing maybe 50% of air flow. On another note, some people don't seems to tolerate the cold and some can take more. It's a question of metabolism and...OK.. I won't say it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Meade Posted November 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2011 I don't think that thumbnail looks exactly like my heater control. I'll double check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted November 29, 2011 Report Share Posted November 29, 2011 Hi Jim, It's the same in all CT's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Baker Posted November 29, 2011 Report Share Posted November 29, 2011 Jim, an other thing that I have found is sometimes the flapper in the box is not making full travel. If it is not opening all the way you are losing heat right out of the box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Runtoeat Posted November 29, 2011 Report Share Posted November 29, 2011 Another thing to check is the trim on the heater outlet at your feet. My 2006 CTSW outlet does not have the chrome diverter that my friend's CTLS has but only a piece of trim with an open hole. The hot air duct was not connected to this trim correctly and was basically blowing hot air inside the console and not out into the cabin. I realigned the ducting and adjusted the trim to get full hot air flow out of the hole. BIG difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandpiper Posted November 29, 2011 Report Share Posted November 29, 2011 Leading Edge has a shutter kit. Has anyone looked at going that route?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted November 30, 2011 Report Share Posted November 30, 2011 Hi John, The shutter blocks too much air. The only air that gets through is at the holes and the rest of the radiator is blocked. If you lived where it was zero or lower 8-10 months of the year that might work out well, but the restricted air space around the holes blocks too much air flow for more normal days. p.s. Why aren't you down here yet. We have CT's coming out our ears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff B Posted December 10, 2011 Report Share Posted December 10, 2011 On my Zenith, it's easier to tape the bottom of my oil radiator than the top. Does it matter? J Beachy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted December 10, 2011 Report Share Posted December 10, 2011 Our coolant radiator has the oil cooler piggy backed onto the back and top of the coolant. So by blocking the upper portion we block the coolant and oil radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mocfly Posted February 28, 2012 Report Share Posted February 28, 2012 Another thing to check is the trim on the heater outlet at your feet. My 2006 CTSW outlet does not have the chrome diverter that my friend's CTLS has but only a piece of trim with an open hole. The hot air duct was not connected to this trim correctly and was basically blowing hot air inside the console and not out into the cabin. I realigned the ducting and adjusted the trim to get full hot air flow out of the hole. BIG difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mocfly Posted February 28, 2012 Report Share Posted February 28, 2012 Does anyone have a picture of how the heater ducting is positioned in the tunnel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted February 28, 2012 Report Share Posted February 28, 2012 As the 1 3/4" hose comes through the firewall it connects to a teed pipe. One goes up for the vents on the windshield and one each goes left and right for the cabin heat down by the feet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocRon Posted April 4, 2012 Report Share Posted April 4, 2012 On my Zenith, it's easier to tape the bottom of my oil radiator than the top. Does it matter? J Beachy The easiest thing for me was to create insertable styrofoam pads (as shown below) to fit into the opening in front of the radiator. They go in and come out in seconds with no mess or gummy tape residue. I have various sizes of these based on ground temperature. I have 40 degree, 30 degree, and 20 & less degree blocks. The width of the block depends on the air temperature. All blocks are cut from 2 inch thick styrofoam. Through trial and error I now have them sized just wide enough to block enough incoming air to get my oil temperature up to 190 degrees. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N89WD Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 Another thing to check is the trim on the heater outlet at your feet. My 2006 CTSW outlet does not have the chrome diverter that my friend's CTLS has but only a piece of trim with an open hole. The hot air duct was not connected to this trim correctly and was basically blowing hot air inside the console and not out into the cabin. I realigned the ducting and adjusted the trim to get full hot air flow out of the hole. BIG difference. Hey Dick, I picked up 2 of the heat defusers for the foot board heater holes. It really made a difference in heat disbursment. It doesn't just heat the heck out of my right foot any more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mocfly Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 mike, Can you post up a pic of the diffusers and where you got them? Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 Chris, You get them from FD. They are a set and are chromed. They keep the direct heat off your feet and aim it forward. They cost around $115 or something in that area. They aren't to bad to put in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Runtoeat Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 Guess I missed Mike's post about being able to purchase the diffusers from FD USA and Ron's post regarding his styrofoam block. Good stuff. Thanks for posting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N89WD Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 mike, Can you post up a pic of the diffusers and where you got them? Chris I'll get a picture up when I go to the hangar today...you'll really like them...no more hot foot, for you or your passenger When I bought mine in late '09 they were like $60.00 for both, not sure on cost now of course, but at $115.00 they are still nice to have. My heater is on all summer in mornings and evenings, and unless I head south in the summer it's on at altitude at times too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mocfly Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 Roger Thanks. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N89WD Posted April 15, 2012 Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 mike, Can you post up a pic of the diffusers and where you got them? Chris Here is the picture of the diffursers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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