Fast Taxi

[FlyingMonkey]

I generally prefer a slow taxi, really not much more than walking speed. But my CTSW doesn't agree. Even at idle, if I take off the brakes and let it roll on a long flat stretch, it will wind up to 22 knots or so, which is way faster than I like. This is with full stick back to get a little stabilator aerobraking. I don't like using the brakes as much as required to keep the speed down, it seems like a path to fast wear.

 

My plane idles right around 1950-2050rpm, is that set too high? Or is this just how CTs run on the ground?

[Ed Cesnalis]

I idle 1,700 - 1,900.

 

For me the taxi down to 27 at idle and no braking gets me close to flying speed.

[FlyingMonkey]

So how do you manage the brakes CT? I don't want to ride them and keep them hot, so I just hit them hard to slow down periodically, but it seems more often than I like. I even got on them too much yesterday and got a little tire bark. :blush:

[S4Flier]

I was instructed to lay off the brakes, allow ground speed to get to no more than 20kts then brake to bring it down. Repeat as necessary

 

5 years and still have the original brake pads.

[Ed Cesnalis]

When it gets fast enough to scare me >20-25kts I brake hard, slower idle helps

[FlyingMonkey]

CT is your idle intentionally set lower or is mine running high?

[FastEddieB]

Your idle sounds high.

 

Do you have a ROTAX Owner's Manual? It should specify the desired idle speed or range.

 

It's available online as a .pdf.

[Ed Cesnalis]

you are high

[FlyingMonkey]

Worrisome high or just "you should get it adjusted when you have a chance" high?

[CT4ME]

I have the same "problem"... 'expecting to get the idle rpm dropped to 1750-1800 next time it's in the shop for balancing. With our low weight, it doesn't take much to get 'r moving... but same holds true for stopping- doesn't take much to slow it down.

tim

[sandpiper]

Idle speed will also affect your landing as the plane will want to keep going. My idle is set to 1600 but I keep it at 2000 when I taxi. You will not hurt your Matco brakes using them to keep your speed down. My taxi comes out at about 11K if I keep touching the brake. Not riding them, just repeated short bursts. I've had my Matco's 3 years and my pads show very little wear.

 

With my ground idle at 1600, my 60K RPM is around 2000. I don't want it any higher. After touchdown I have to add a little throttle after I slow down in order to keep the idle in the green. Not really desirable that I have to do this but it doesn't bother me. If this was a club or training plane I would probably set it different.

 

You may not want to use 1600 but 1950-2050, IMHO, is too high.

[FlyingMonkey]

Thanks guys, I'll look into resetting the idle to a lower value next time I have a mechanic doing work. You are right John, it does seem to have a little trouble coming down, a couple hundred less RPM will probably help my landings.

[FlyingMonkey]

On the plus side, I'm a little shocked at how effective the factory brakes are. Good feel, plenty of stopping power, and they don't fade.

[Ed Cesnalis]

On the plus side, I'm a little shocked at how effective the factory brakes are. Good feel, plenty of stopping power, and they don't fade.

 

You must have upgraded Matco brakes, the factory brakes on a CTSW are more shockingly bad than good.

[FlyingMonkey]

You must have upgraded Matco brakes, the factory brakes on a CTSW are more shockingly bad than good.

 

I'd be surprised, from what I know of the plane's history, unless it was a factory option. How can I tell which brakes I have (preferably with the wheel pants on)?

[Andy]

Mine has the MATCO upgrade and a student's CTSW does not: BIG difference! (The MATCO are much better.)

[sandpiper]

Before I went Matco, they got so bad that my pre-landing check list included "pump brakes on short final". Otherwise, I would touch down and have no brakes until I pumped them.

 

If you don't have Matco, plan on an upgrade but keep using the originals until they start being a problem. Then, don't even try to fix them, just change. Maybe a good task for winter.

[Znurtdog]

Can the Matco master cylinder be installed on a Marc system leaving everything else untouched?

[sandpiper]

Yes.

[sandpiper]

Won't fix the base problem however.

[FlyingMonkey]

What is the telltale for having Matcos or not? The master cylinder? Where is that located?

[sandpiper]

Look in your logs and paperwork. If yours is a 2007 I doubt it came with Matco. So, a logbook entry would show it.

 

Otherwise, as I recall, the original Italian jobs had a floating disc whereas Matco has non-floating.

 

M. Cylinder is in the center hump under the coin tray.

[Runtoeat]

Andy, to expand on this, if you have disks bolted to the wheel with floating calipers, you have Matco. If the disk slides on the wheel shoulder bolts and caliper is hard bolted, you have the Italian brakes. One must also get the Matco wheels when doing the changeover. A plus with the Matco axles which come in the kit is that you have the ability to align the wheels for both toe-in and camber and the Matco bearings are serviceable tapered roller instead of the throw away sealed ball bearings the Italian wheels have.

[Znurtdog]

Won't fix the base problem however.

 

What's the base problem? (or link for info?) Thanks

[sandpiper]

The base problem is that the originals don't stop as well and will continue to give you problems throughout their life.

 

In addition, parts such as new pads are significantly more expensive.

 

If we get Roger to chime in he can give facts that I don't have. Or, you can search this forum. Somewhere in here it has been discussed pretty thoroughly.