100LL vs. E10

[Scotsman58]

Hi all. I'm scheduled to take delivery soon (possibly in January) of a CTLS (and I'm very excited about that!).

 

It seems that here in Connecticut it will be very difficult if not impossible to obtain mogas with no ethanol. My understanding is that Connecticut requires all the auto gas stations to pump E10. I've certainly never run across one that doesn't.

 

Furthermore, I've yet to discover any airport in this vicinity that offers anything but 100LL.

 

Having just taken the Service training class on the Rotax 912 at Lockwood Aviation in Sebring, FL (which I highly recommend, even to owners like myself who aren't likely to do much work on their engines themselves), I'm very aware of the lead buildup issues that can be caused by running 100LL in these engines. I know about the 25 hour oil changes, 600 hr gearbox maintenance, regular cleaning of the oil tank, etc., etc. I also know that you should use additives (TCP/Decalin).

 

But E10 (which I would have to schlep from auto gas stations) doesn't sound like a bargain either. Flight Design doesn't forbid it, but warns us of unstable fuel and settling/separation of the ethanol/water combination that will result if any water gets in the system. I read that you should never leave E10 sitting in the tanks for long, but that seems highly impractical. It also seems that Rotax hasn't officially said that E10 is ok either (although I'm not sure about that one).

 

I'd be interested on views of others in what seems to be a "lesser of two evils" choice.

 

One thing that seems clear -- Rotax operators are going to be a happy group if the aviation industry gets its act together and makes decent octane no-lead, sans ethanol, available at our fields.

 

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

[airhound]

I have the same concerns. My limited experience with E10 car gas is no water visible after 4 weeks with the red Stabil added. Anybody have experience to share regarding use of Stabil Marine Formula and StarTron Enzyme Fuel Treatment?? Both available at Walmart in Automotive and Marine Departments. Is one preferred over the other?

[S3flyer]

Rotax approved the use of E10 around a year ago (I'm sure someone on the forum can quote the notice) although the manufacturer must approve as well.

 

General consensus seems to be that E10 is less bad than 100LL.

[Roger Lee]

Hi Scotsman,

 

Use the 91 oct. E10 and don't look back. It is perfectly ok and use it up to 4 weeks. Don't worry about water. If you check the gascolator sump and find water in E10 then it means the entire fuel is fully saturated and the water is now falling out of solution. Then all the fuel would have to be drained. I doubt very seriously you will see ever see that happen. No need for any additive. If you can don't use 100LL, but if you have to use Decalin lead scavenger. Don't use TCP. There is a Rotax SB against TCP use. It will cause problems.

Put the 91 Oct. E10 in and fly on a regular basis and you'll never have an issue. If you aren't going to fly all winter then drain the fuel from the tanks and the carbs, but winter flying is fun and pretty. Tape up the all the holes above your head with clear tape to keep the air out. Make sure the wing roots are taped to keep the wind out and use a little 3/8" wide soft foam weather strip around the door edges in conjunction with the weather strip already there and this will seal up the cabin from any wind. Then the heater will work well. I can fly when it is 25F out in a short sleeve shirt and be warm.

[Runtoeat]

Scotsman, totally agree with Roger. We've been using E10 here in Michigan for about 5 years. Personally, I use BP premium E10 91 octane for my CTSW. Haven't had any problems what-so-ever with this fuel provided 1. You buy the fuel from a reputable, clean and busy station that pumps a lot of gas. 2. You use the E10 and don't let it sit more than one or two months max in your plane. If in humid climate more like one month. If you're going to let your plane sit for longer periods, just fill it up with 100LL instead of the E10. I'm currently buying BP 91 octane premium for about $3 / gal. after the 5% BP rebate.

[airhound]

I know we are talking Go Juice here, but I have to ask this gathering about Low-Tech cold weather preheating. Just short of rigging a Propane fueled MONGOSSO of sorts, does the simple 100watt light bulb really make a difference? and what do you do, take a drop light fixture without the head and poke it down through the oil access door along side the oil tank? Or??

[sandpiper]

A 100W drop light will make a difference. As I posted elsewhere, a buddy of mine in Anchorage used one for years in his Bonanza. But, you will need an insulated cowl cover. Also, he would hook his light up after each flight while everything was still warm and just leave it 24/7. He did not take the head off.

 

I have never used one myself but if it works on a Bonanza it will work on a CT. But, be careful that you don't heat damage something due to close proximity to the bulb. The Bonanza has more room under the cowl. You will need to experimant and observe closely.

 

I don't need any preheat in my current situation because my hangar doesn't ever get below 50 F. If I did need frequent preheat I would go with a Tanis plus a cowl cover. Pricey but it would give me peace of mind.

 

Whatever method you use, just don't blister your cowl and remember that a quick preheat will get the cylinders warm enough to start easily but does little or nothing for your oil.

[airhound]

Thank you!

[Scotsman58]

Thanks, guys, for these helpful opinions. You're screwing up my courage to try the E10 route. I'm guessing this topic has been discussed before on this forum, but has anyone discovered the perfect gas containers for transporting auto gas from filling stations to your hangar?

[airhound]

http://www.amazon.com/No-Spill-1450-5-Gallon-Poly-Compliant/dp/B000W9JN4S/ref=pd_rhf_p_t_2

 

 

5 gallons, no spill, sits on wing perfectly, and spout shoots the gas straight down the filler necks.....absolutely no aiming required, just push the botton.