Roger Lee Posted November 28, 2010 Report Share Posted November 28, 2010 Don't forget to change your coolant every 2 years. It is an easy and fairly quick maint. item. It is fairly cheap as the cooling system only takes slightly over 3qts. Use any good 50/50 silicone free coolant. Most coolants now days are silicone free. It is about $12 a gal. I happen to use Prestone 50/50 extended life. It is orange in color, but there are other coolants out there that will work. You can also mix your own from a coolant concentrate and distilled water, but no stronger than a 60/40. This strength would be ok for the cold country guys. No special purging of the system required. Just do a good job of draining and refill including the reservoir tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogerck Posted July 25, 2011 Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 I have Evans coolant in my recently purchased 2006 CTSW. What is the process for two year flushing of the cooling system with this coolant? I also have a five year rubber replacement coming due. Does anyone have an opinion regarding sticking with the Evans or switching back to a 50/50 anitfreeze mix? Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted July 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2011 Hi Roger, Kind of like talking to myself. The Evans can go longer because it has no water. You will loose some on the hose change and will need to buy more to make up the difference. I am surprised your temps aren't a little high. the Evans in our CT's usually raises temps by 25F. 50/50 coolant with water has better heat absorbing properties and tend to keep our temps down some. When you loose a little Evans you have to replace it with Evans and no water. With the 50/50 you can add just water or more 50/50 coolant. It's up to you which you want to use. Evans is about $25 a gallon. I tried Evans early on and the temp increase didn't make it a good choice for me personally. Most of us use 50/50 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogerck Posted July 26, 2011 Report Share Posted July 26, 2011 Hi Roger, Kind of like talking to myself. The Evans can go longer because it has no water. You will loose some on the hose change and will need to buy more to make up the difference. I am surprised your temps aren't a little high. the Evans in our CT's usually raises temps by 25F. 50/50 coolant with water has better heat absorbing properties and tend to keep our temps down some. When you loose a little Evans you have to replace it with Evans and no water. With the 50/50 you can add just water or more 50/50 coolant. It's up to you which you want to use. Evans is about $25 a gallon. I tried Evans early on and the temp increase didn't make it a good choice for me personally. Most of us use 50/50 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogerck Posted July 26, 2011 Report Share Posted July 26, 2011 Roger, The temps do run on the high side. What is the rationale for using Evans anyway? I would just as soon switch to 50/50. Is there any special flushing requirement to purge the Evans before adding 50/50? Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted July 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2011 Evans is being used so you can go from a max temp of 248F to 266F for a max temp. The problem is it makes you run too hot. To drain just pull the lower coolant hose off the right side coolant radiator. then while that's off cover the hose and outlet with a rag and put a catch basin then blow down through the top of the coolant tank on top of the engine. Blow hard 3-4 times and the system will be clear. Then just put in the 50/50 coolant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tad Olmsted Posted July 31, 2011 Report Share Posted July 31, 2011 I flush it a little with distilled water after blowing it out. Doesn't hurt and a whole gallon is only $0.85. I think I only use a quart or so until all the color is flushed out. I use Dexcool 50/50 and it can be bought almost anywhere. Any brand will work as long as it is silicone free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Bill Posted July 31, 2011 Report Share Posted July 31, 2011 Welcome back, Tad! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tad Olmsted Posted July 31, 2011 Report Share Posted July 31, 2011 Welcome back, Tad! Hi Bill, I didn't leave, but I am back posting. I will be yet a little reluctant on how much I say and I will definately not give any advise to certain members. How's the new Matco brakes treating you? When do you want me to swap out the dynons for skyview? I have a buyer for your Dynons when the time comes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandpiper Posted August 8, 2011 Report Share Posted August 8, 2011 First I would like to say I flush my coolant system every 2 years and replace with 50/50 dex cool. But, where does Rotax say that is required? I'm sure Roger or Tad can state chapter and verse but all I'm finding is, in 05-10-00 section 2.2, it says to replace per the manufacturers instructions but at least at overhaul or engine replacement. The Zerex folks say 5 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted August 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2011 Hi John, Chapter and verse you don't get this time. I know your thinking you just got off lucky and I can't give you are hard time. I was looking forward to it. It does say by at least over haul. Kind of a ambiguous comment since that can be anywhere from 12 - 15 years. Then it says follow the aircraft Mfg's recommendation which FD kind or neglected since they say to always follow the Rotax manual. So where does this come from? From Rotax school and from Eric Tucker. We only use about 2/3 of a gal in the cooling system and after it has been in use it starts to loose some of its protection properties , both boil limit and corrosion protection. Will our coolant last longer than 2 years, I'm sure it would, but to be safe it is taught to change it in 2 year intervals. You can also find this stated in several on line writings by different authors that are Rotax distributors. I change my home vehicles every 2 years too. p.s. I'm still looking forward to my dinner or lunch at Page. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMcCand - N248CT Posted August 9, 2011 Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 Not chapter and verse, but rather page and revision. See the Line Maint manual, rev 1 Jan 01/2002. Section 05-10-00 page 4, time limit for coolant is 2 years. In later revisions, they said to follow coolant vendor limits. So John isn't crazy... I had to go find the paper manual I got with the 2006 CTsw to find this... Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted August 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 Hi Bill, Nice find. I had seen it over the years, but I knew it was not spelled out in print in the new Line Maint. manual. It is taught in Rotax school as 2 years. I talked to a Rotax honcho today about a few things and that is one of the items I mentioned. I was ask to look for some of those errors or omissions and send them an email. So if you guys notice any more of these little odd ball omissions let me know and we will inform Rotax. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J L M Posted September 12, 2011 Report Share Posted September 12, 2011 Roger, If my coolant is just a little low, can I add, say a 1/2 pint to 1 pint of distilled water untill I get it flushed. I don't know whats in it now, it appears to be a blue color. It looks to be about 1 1/2 to 2 inches of fluid in the reservoir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted September 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2011 Hi Jerry, The blue coolant is from overseas. It is the original coolant. If it is 2+ years old just drain it and put some 50/50 back in the engine and reservoir bottle. Don't add any other coolant to the blue coolant, only distilled water if you are topping off. Yes you can pour in a little distilled to flush it. If you pull the bottom right hose of the radiator and drain it then blow down through the metal coolant tank on top you will clear the entire system. No need to flush. The coolant reservoir will drain almost completely and if you want the last little bit out then use the distilled water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gisurvey Posted September 12, 2011 Report Share Posted September 12, 2011 Only for info: Original coolant (blue/green): BASF Glysantin G48 Protect Plus Regards, Alec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J L M Posted September 12, 2011 Report Share Posted September 12, 2011 Thanks Roger, I think I will just go ahead and drain it and replace the coolant. Other than altering the wheel pants for access to ck pressure, this will be the first thing I have done to the plane other than ck oil and refuel. I have worked on old hunting jeeps for years but thats a lot different than an airplane that I need to stay in the air. Btw, just passed my knowledge test today, should be taking my ck ride in the next few weeks. This is all still very new to me. Thanks for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airhound Posted October 8, 2012 Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 Don't forget to change your coolant every 2 years. It is an easy and fairly quick maint. item. It is fairly cheap as the cooling system only takes slightly over 3qts. Use any good 50/50 silicone free coolant. Most coolants now days are silicone free. It is about $12 a gal. I happen to use Prestone 50/50 extended life. It is orange in color, but there are other coolants out there that will work. You can also mix your own from a coolant concentrate and distilled water, but no stronger than a 60/40. This strength would be ok for the cold country guys. No special purging of the system required. Just do a good job of draining and refill including the reservoir tank. Is it possible to use the copper crush washer again....? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted October 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 Absolutely you could, but that's up to you. One school will say change them every time and that's fairly well accepted. So long as it doesn't leak which is its job then you could re-use it because "it ain't broke". Some people re-use them 10 times without any issues, but I'm sure you'll hear from the other school of thought that says change them every time and that's okay. I hope it isn't from anyone who says if it ain't broke don't fix it because it ain't broke. Replacing a crush washer every time would be like changing the hose at 5 years. For me I'll use them a couple of times and toss them. So it will boil down to what you want to do in the end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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