Marcelo Posted October 9, 2020 Report Share Posted October 9, 2020 The CTLS 2012 nose gear shock absorver has a long moviment curse but just the final course has a little absorvation? Recently I removed the shock absorver to inspect and I noted just a limited absorvion on the end of course, this is normal? The course without resistence is the red line on picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted October 9, 2020 Report Share Posted October 9, 2020 That pin is awful high in that slot. With good polyurethane dampeners in place you should not be able to move the shock up or down or side to side with a good guide pin in place. Your preflight and your annual inspection (on the FD checklist) should include lifting up the front end by the prop up close to the spinner about 1" - 2" off the ground and letting is sit back down firmly. There should be NO up and down movement. If there is you need to replace the 6 red polyurethane spacers. If when the front end is off the ground there should be no more than about 1/4" of side to side movement. If there is you need a new guide pin. If this is left unchecked and it gets too bad then a new front will be in your future. This is a way to fix the worn out slot, but we'll save that conversation for later. In the old days with the CTSW there used to be springs instead of the 6 dampeners. The spring had so much up & down movement it would bottom out and wear that slot out pretty fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcelo Posted October 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2020 Uhhh, these 6 polyurethane dampeners are describe here: Make sure of integrity of the Polyurethane Damper Elements (Urelastfeder 90 Shores (red 25/10,5 mm. X 20 mm)) (pos. 12). Replace if necessary And the position on shock absorver is like shown on picture below. When I removed it I found small red particles, I thought it was dry grease. I am going to find the supplier of this damper. Thanks Roger, you were very helpful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted October 10, 2020 Report Share Posted October 10, 2020 I am a Mfg and supplier these dampeners. I also have door lift struts, CTSW rubber engine mounts. The CTLS just uses a Lord mount. Mfg and supplier of the Rotax oil filter wrench Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AGLyme Posted October 10, 2020 Report Share Posted October 10, 2020 Your Rotax Oil Filter wrench is A+... everyone should have one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcelo Posted October 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2020 Hi Roger, Do you know if it's possible to remove the inside pin (picture attached)? I removed all nuts, but the pin is like locked, I thinks it's possible to remove. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Baker Posted October 18, 2020 Report Share Posted October 18, 2020 I have a acorn nut with a very short set screw inside that I use. I thread it on the end of the stud, and also apply pressure to the nut on the other end of the stud to get it to turn out. You could use a coupling nut with a set screw instead. I just used one of those to drive a stud last week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcelo Posted October 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2020 Yes I got it! The red dampeners are in very bad condition and with irregular size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted October 19, 2020 Report Share Posted October 19, 2020 There is no need to remove the post in the front suspension unless it's damaged. It can be removed. Take the nut off the bottom and double nut the other end. If you didn't double nut it you could apply some Loctite 648 on the threads and screw a nut down on it then unscrew the entire pin. Then heat the nut with the Loctite 648 so it will unscrew. The red polyurethane dampeners are an expendable item. Its longevity depends on how often and how hard the front wheel slams down. When I reassemble the dampeners over the rod I smear some grease on the washers so the dampeners don't bind up when tightened down and when they function on landing. This way they stay in a proper and correct position and don't bind up or stick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Baker Posted October 19, 2020 Report Share Posted October 19, 2020 8 hours ago, Roger Lee said: There is no need to remove the post in the front suspension unless it's damaged. It can be removed. Take the nut off the bottom and double nut the other end. If you didn't double nut it you could apply some Loctite 648 on the threads and screw a nut down on it then unscrew the entire pin. Then heat the nut with the Loctite 648 so it will unscrew. The red polyurethane dampeners are an expendable item. Its longevity depends on how often and how hard the front wheel slams down. When I reassemble the dampeners over the rod I smear some grease on the washers so the dampeners don't bind up when tightened down and when they function on landing. This way they stay in a proper and correct position and don't bind up or stick. I guess I prefer to do it differently than you. I like to take the rod off with the top of the assembly. That is why I made the special nut. It allows me to loosen from both ends for removal. It makes it easier for me to reassemble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted October 19, 2020 Report Share Posted October 19, 2020 Hi Tom, Why take it out unless it's damaged? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Baker Posted October 19, 2020 Report Share Posted October 19, 2020 1 minute ago, Roger Lee said: Hi Tom, Why take it out unless it's damaged? Because I find it easier to reassemble with the new bushings. Plus it allows me to clean, inspect, and treat the inside of the lower tube with LPS 3. I have seen some significant rust on a few that I have looked at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted October 19, 2020 Report Share Posted October 19, 2020 I flush the tubes out with Brake Kleen. Then I stack on 3-4 dampeners on a long phillips screwdriver and put the point of the screwdriver on top of the bolt and just let them slide off. Then put the other ones on. Putting the dampeners in place just takes about a minute or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4RJN Posted December 19, 2022 Report Share Posted December 19, 2022 I have a 2006 ctsw and it still has the spring in the nose tube. Where do I buy the red polyurethane dampers and spacers. The whole kit I guess is what I need. Thanks Rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted December 19, 2022 Report Share Posted December 19, 2022 You can buy them from me. I have in stock all the time the red poly dampeners for all CT's, the suspension pin for all CT's, door struts that fit all CT's and CTSW rubber engine mounts. Leaving that spring in will wear out the front suspension tube slots. There was an SB out to remove the spring many years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Baker Posted December 19, 2022 Report Share Posted December 19, 2022 39 minutes ago, Roger Lee said: You can buy them from me. I have in stock all the time the red poly dampeners for all CT's, the suspension pin for all CT's, door struts that fit all CT's and CTSW rubber engine mounts. Leaving that spring in will wear out the front suspension tube slots. There was an SB out to remove the spring many years ago. Do you have the thin stainless washers, the rubber washers, and the aluminum caps for the ends? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Baker Posted December 19, 2022 Report Share Posted December 19, 2022 The kits were offered at one time free to get people to do the upgrade. I found one not to long ago that had not been upgraded. I bought all of the parts except the red poly dampers from Flight Design USA. All of the parts from them have been transferred to Airtime Aviation in Tulsa. I would give them a call. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted December 20, 2022 Report Share Posted December 20, 2022 If necessary you can use just washers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted December 20, 2022 Report Share Posted December 20, 2022 9 hours ago, Tom Baker said: Do you have the thin stainless washers, the rubber washers, and the aluminum caps for the ends? You can buy the stainless steel washers at Ace Aviation. The rubber washers should already be in your suspension tube unless you took them out. If they are missing those too can come from Ace. The caps can only come from Airtime Aviation FD in Tulsa, OK. If they don't have anymore washers can be used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Meade Posted December 21, 2022 Report Share Posted December 21, 2022 On 12/19/2022 at 6:05 PM, Roger Lee said: You can buy the stainless steel washers at Ace Aviation. The rubber washers should already be in your suspension tube unless you took them out. If they are missing those too can come from Ace. The caps can only come from Airtime Aviation FD in Tulsa, OK. If they don't have anymore washers can be used. Roger, does one technically need an MRA to use a non-FD part as in this instance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anticept Posted December 21, 2022 Report Share Posted December 21, 2022 I've been told by flight design USA to source hardware from local shops. To be completely on the up and up, FD should be supplying everything or specifying the part numbers. Be nice if they would have just specced everything in the parts catalog with milspec compliance data. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Baker Posted December 21, 2022 Report Share Posted December 21, 2022 8 hours ago, Anticept said: I've been told by flight design USA to source hardware from local shops. To be completely on the up and up, FD should be supplying everything or specifying the part numbers. Be nice if they would have just specced everything in the parts catalog with milspec compliance data. They did for some generic parts, like hardware and hoses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted December 21, 2022 Report Share Posted December 21, 2022 If Airtime Aviation (new FD) has the parts then yes buy them from them, but if they no longer can supply them then you have no choice, but to get them locally. The only thing that FD had that you couldn't get at Ace was the top and bottom plates. If they don't have them any longer then washers can be substituted otherwise you can't comply with the original SB to get rid of the spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anticept Posted December 21, 2022 Report Share Posted December 21, 2022 1 hour ago, Tom Baker said: They did for some generic parts, like hardware and hoses. I got hose part numbers, but I never saw milspec data for hardware. Where was that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Baker Posted December 21, 2022 Report Share Posted December 21, 2022 44 minutes ago, Anticept said: I got hose part numbers, but I never saw milspec data for hardware. Where was that? Being built in Europe they use a DIN spec. For example a DIN 985 for a lock nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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