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Oil Filter Paper Inspection


Runtoeat

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Is there any info on what one should look for when inspecting the oil filter paper element after cutting this out of the used oil filter? What is acceptable and what is a red flag regarding metal found in the element? Any pictures showing "typical" elements or words of wisdom from those of you who frequently tear the filters apart? I looked for related articles or videos on the Rotax ROAN website but didn't find anything.

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Hi Dick,

 

Well there is the old way and a better way. The old way is to cut the element out and open it up and look over the paper pleats all opened up. Looking for and metal or anything that shouldn't be there. It should be clean except for maybe an occasional carbon particle of no concern. If you found a lot of anything then it would be time to worry. The problem with this method is the oil residue hides things.

Now the better way is to cut the element out, take a jar maybe 4"-6" tall and about 4"-5" around. Put 1" of fuel in it and drop the element in the fuel. Put the cap on and shake it for about 30 seconds. Now remove the filter element. It should be washed clean. Open the pleats for a quick look, but they should be clean. Take the fuel in the jar and pour it over a white paper towel into something else. Anything no matter what will be jumping out at you in the white paper towel after you have poured all the fuel out. It is very easy to see every little spec and what color it is. The occasional small black particles will be carbon. If you see a particle and not sure if it is metal you could take a magnet and see if it is ferrous metal or not. There should be almost nothing to a few tiny specs in the towel. All your oil passes by the magnetic plug so the metals should show up there and you are supposed to check the plug at every oil change. Taking a 100 hr or annual oil sample is the other way to check to see if you have any issues coming up. So with three different checks you should be able to tell if problems are coming. That said I wouldn't loose any sleep as you have a very reliable engine.

 

 

Just a side note:

No one should be using a straight dino oil. We should all be using a semi synthetic or full synthetic in our Rotax engine. Straight dino oil lacks the tenacity and extreme properties that the synthetics have. We have a high compression, close tolerance with, highly mechanical and high rev engine compared to a Continental or Lycoming. It needs the better oils to hold up over the long haul to TBO. People will tell you my engine runs just fine on straight dino oil. Yes it does, for now, and so long as you never hit an engine extreme operational issue. Good luck on the long haul and what needs to be done when you get there.

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Hi Roger. Thanks for the info. I'm changing oil every 50 hours now and am using Mobil 4T (wet clutch full synthetic) but will be switching over to Amsoil wet clutch full synthetic when my stock of Mobil oil is depleted. I'm sending in oil samples every 100 hours. I note that there were a few metallic particles on the my mag plug last oil change but this was just a small amount, well below the max amount allowed. In seeing these, it appears that there's a few metallic particles floating around in the engine, perhaps from initial machining, that will finally get caught either by the mag plug or the filter. The conclusion I draw here is that I shouldn't be alarmed if I see a couple of small pieces of metal on the mag plug or in the filter element during oil changes.

 

 

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Hi Dick,

 

Nothing wrong with the Mobile One Racing 4T. It's a good oil. The only thing you should see is anything from nothing to a very very slight fuzz on the plug. I will say that all the mag plugs using the Amsoil 10-40W (winter) or the 20-50W (summer) motorcycle oil I see are usually very clean with nothing on them. I think the big factor is to change oil at every 50 hrs with 91 Oct and 25 hrs with 100LL to keep your engine healthy and trouble free to TBO. I know the manual says up to 100 hrs for 91 Oct. but in the classes they don't teach that.

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