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Ctsw fuel cutoff valve leaking w pictures


Vic

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Hey guys.  Went/tried to go flying today and found fuel on my floor when I opened up the fuel valve.   After some brief investigation I found fuel leaking out between the black linkage arm and metal valve body.  Is this a simple oring replacement or will I need to order a whole new valve assembly?   Is something loose that I could have tightened on the black link arm.   Fuel only pours out when I OPEN the valve.  It stops once I close it.   Seems like the best option is replacement but maybe someone else knows more about these valves.

PXL_20210710_144651508.jpg

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If it leaks on opening, it has to be either the valve itself or the hose downstream from the valve.  The valve seems much more likely.  As critical as this is to safety, I'd probably replace the valve and closely inspect the hoses attaching to it and replace them if they show any significant wear.  If you have enough hose, clip off an inch or two from the end of each hose so you get a good fresh interface between the hose and the valve.

On a side note, I'd be curious what FD charges for the valve.  I'm guessing it's not as cheap as we'd all like it to be.   :(

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Leaking valves are becoming a bigger issue as the fleet ages. I have heard of several that have been replaced. Here is the number for the valve, fuel valve K-MI-6400-1/4-22-II-MSV, 2/2. I did a quick search, but didn't come up with anything, but I am pretty sure Flight Design has them.

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No kidding!  Well hopefully FD has them and they don't cost an arm and a leg.  If not I guess I'll make an order over to German and ship it back to the states.   Thanks monkey  Roger and Tom! You guys are always so helpful here.     Will I need to drain my full tanks 😭 or can I use some sort of gas line clamp or hemostats ( care not to cut any rubber) to get the valve replaced?  

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I just changed mine out a couple weeks ago - bought from Flight Design.   I did try to "fix" my old one as the plastic inside had warped (i have a friend that does really good work and did a great job replicating what i needed) However - end of the day, the new part wasnt expensive so it really wasnt worth the trouble to repair -   and Flight Design had it available.     I will add,  when i found the leak at the valve i also noticed the fuel flow out of the gascolator was not very strong.  Its possible the defective valve was restricting some fuel flow.

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FD has the valve for a mere 28 bucks! Higher than any valve should be but not to bad I guess since they are 20$ from Germany minus shipping.  I also had to order 2 different sized oetiker clamps because they were not sure what size would fit the value.  13.8mm or 14.5mm...🥴  Now I need to add another clamping tool in the ole tool box because I have never used these style clamps on anything before.  


Thanks for the help you guys!   Ill post back with the outcome of the project.

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  • 4 weeks later...
30 minutes ago, Runtoeat said:

Can this valve be moved while replacing it so it can be inspected and serviced easier?  It is in a terrible spot, along with the fuel filter, to service.

You can with an ELSA for sure, for an SLSA you'd probably need an approval note from the factory.  Part of the problem with moving the valve is that it's integrated into the lower center instrument panel, so moving it might leave an ugly hole in the panel.  There's not really another convenient spot for that valve unless you get pretty creative and are willing to cut some things.

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I have done the fuel filter two different ways to make it easier to service, and one of them made inspecting the valve easy. The original firewall blanket installation included a stainless tube coupling that was supposed to be installed where the fuel line goes through the firewall after the valve. Some wo did the blanket installations did not install the tube. If it is installed I would use a s13 Norma clamp there and on the T at the upper firewall fuel line. With the clamps at those positions you can remove the rod from the fuel valve by removing the wire clip, remove the two screws holding the valve in place, remove the two clamps, and remove the whole assembly. It takes maybe 5 minutes. You can then service the fuel filter by unscrewing with the hoses attached. Reassembly is about the same, but you may need an extra hand to make sure the hoses slide all the way on the fittings.

My now preferred method for the filter is to move it upstream of the fuel valve. I still use the Norma clamps on both ends and leave the hose attached to the filter. The second clamp is moved from the lower firewall to the "U" shaped tube. With the left side panel and the lower center panel removed inspection of the valve is fairly easy.

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