Danilo209 Posted March 14, 2022 Report Share Posted March 14, 2022 Hi, new to the forum. I just bought a 2007 CTSW and I realized my flaps don’t match the numbers on the display. At 0* they seem to be at a negative -6 and at -6* it goes to about -12*. Is there a way to reset the flaps so I can bring them back to the correct LSA legal setting. I’m a sport pilot and don’t wanna run any issues with the legality of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anticept Posted March 14, 2022 Report Share Posted March 14, 2022 You have to reprogram the controller. Send a request for instructions to flight design USA. You need to take a photo of the controller board and send it to them too, there's different variations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted March 14, 2022 Report Share Posted March 14, 2022 You don't reset it in the baggage compartment. You reset it with three wires just behind the flap board in the instrument panel. You do need to read about it, but it's quite easy. They have some switches you can use or just use 3 wires with alligator clips on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danilo209 Posted March 14, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2022 2 minutes ago, Roger Lee said: You don't reset it in the baggage compartment. You reset it with three wires just behind the flap board in the instrument panel. You do need to read about it, but it's quite easy. They have some switches you can use or just use 3 wires with alligator clips on them. Thanks Roger! I was reading on this. Figured it was on the flap board. is there a write up on how to adjust them. It looks like i need a momentary switch and a three position switch, no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anticept Posted March 14, 2022 Report Share Posted March 14, 2022 Flight design has the instructions. Since it's copyright material, I can't just post them, sorry. On the older board design, there are four pins, three are used in the position programming. One is not used. However, that pin is still energized, if it gets connected to a specific other pin, it will destroy the board. I was given instructions for the wrong board years ago and that's how I know... but credit to FDUSA for stepping up and replacing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danilo209 Posted March 14, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2022 1 hour ago, Anticept said: Flight design has the instructions. Since it's copyright material, I can't just post them, sorry. On the older board design, there are four pins, three are used in the position programming. One is not used. However, that pin is still energized, if it gets connected to a specific other pin, it will destroy the board. I was given instructions for the wrong board years ago and that's how I know... but credit to FDUSA for stepping up and replacing it. Thanks for the info. I sent an email to Flight Design but haven't heard back. I'm getting ready to do my check ride and I don't want the DPE to fail me because the airplane does not qualify as an LSA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anticept Posted March 14, 2022 Report Share Posted March 14, 2022 Unless you're doing 135 knots, -12 isn't going to make a large enough difference to the examiner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted March 15, 2022 Report Share Posted March 15, 2022 3 hours ago, Danilo209 said: Thanks for the info. I sent an email to Flight Design but haven't heard back. I'm getting ready to do my check ride and I don't want the DPE to fail me because the airplane does not qualify as an LSA. You won't be failed because no one will know unless you tell everyone. Even then is it just the wrong program displayed (-12) and the flaps are actually at -6 or does your board say -6 and the flaps can go to -12? I know about a half dozen owners that went to -12 and it had very little affect and the -6 guys were at the same speed at WOT. The performance is more dependent on prop pitch. One drawback with -12 is at high altitude and and a heavy load there are times you have to drop back to zero flaps where -6 you don't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danilo209 Posted March 17, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2022 On 3/14/2022 at 5:23 PM, Roger Lee said: You won't be failed because no one will know unless you tell everyone. Even then is it just the wrong program displayed (-12) and the flaps are actually at -6 or does your board say -6 and the flaps can go to -12? I know about a half dozen owners that went to -12 and it had very little affect and the -6 guys were at the same speed at WOT. The performance is more dependent on prop pitch. One drawback with -12 is at high altitude and and a heavy load there are times you have to drop back to zero flaps where -6 you don't. Took us about 20 mins to reset them back to factory. Plane looks right now at 0* flaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdarza Posted July 18, 2022 Report Share Posted July 18, 2022 I was trying to reset my flaps position (zero flaps is a couple degrees off - so more like negative 2) I have the board that uses 3 connectors attached to a up/down switch to reset. I think i followed the proper instructions. Attach the 3 wires, move the flap switch to zero, adjust flaps with the temporary up/down switch then press the "button" , then move the flap switch to 15 degrees, adjust flap to 15 degrees with the temporary connected switch, then press button and so on for each flap setting. Doesnt seem to accept my new positions. Does this sound familiar for the proper procedure or am i missing something? Or maybe a defective "button" that isnt recognizing the reset. Oh and when those temp wires are connected, and i move the flap switch - the flaps do move to the position they were pre programmed prior. Not sure if they are supposed to stay in position and only move with the temporary up/down switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anticept Posted July 18, 2022 Report Share Posted July 18, 2022 Your potentiometer may need replaced. The flap position senses voltage from a voltage divider circuit driven by the potentiometer. The wiper arm may have worn out. It's a 10k pot with no stops. Found on the flap jackscrew. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted July 18, 2022 Report Share Posted July 18, 2022 I have found I need to turn power off between each setting on many CT’s. Going just down to each position one after another doesn’t work many times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdarza Posted July 18, 2022 Report Share Posted July 18, 2022 Yeah I tried turning the power off but only the master switch. I will try removing battery connection next attempt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted July 18, 2022 Report Share Posted July 18, 2022 Just the master switch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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