FlyingMonkey Posted May 19, 2022 Report Share Posted May 19, 2022 The fuel drip tray under my left carb is very badly cracked along the attach bracket, almost all the way through. I have slapped some JB Kwik Weld on it and it's stable, but it really needs to be replaced. Looking at it with one of the attach bolts under the intake, it looks like there is no way to get the damn thing off without pulling the intake runners off the top of the engine. Am I missing something? If there's a secret squirrel trick to getting this done easily I'd sure like to know it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Baker Posted May 19, 2022 Report Share Posted May 19, 2022 I repaired one not to long ago, and I don't remember taking off the intake manifold. I looked and I don't have any SW drip tray pictures, and it may also be left side right side dependent. Take a picture from the side and above, and maybe I can make a suggestion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyingMonkey Posted May 19, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2022 1 hour ago, Tom Baker said: I repaired one not to long ago, and I don't remember taking off the intake manifold. I looked and I don't have any SW drip tray pictures, and it may also be left side right side dependent. Take a picture from the side and above, and maybe I can make a suggestion. You see the attach bolt back under the carb, that's the troublemaker. Thanks for any help you can provide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Baker Posted May 19, 2022 Report Share Posted May 19, 2022 For some reason the last few attachments on post from you show up as a circle with a slash through it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towner Posted May 19, 2022 Report Share Posted May 19, 2022 Did mine yesterday. Had to remove intake manifold, but it wasn’t a big deal. You don’t have to pull the manifold all the way off, just pull the 4 bolts and pull the carb loose from the intake and it gives enough room to get to that stupid bolt. Unplug the CHT probe wires too. I had to do both sides and it probably took an hour for each side. While I removed and replaced the drip tray, instead of getting a new tray, the shop just cut some new brackets and riveted the to the old tray. It doesn’t look pretty, but should be pretty sturdy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyingMonkey Posted May 19, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2022 1 hour ago, Tom Baker said: For some reason the last few attachments on post from you show up as a circle with a slash through it. Weird...I see the picture in my browser. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Baker Posted May 19, 2022 Report Share Posted May 19, 2022 That one shows up. I have a 912 in the shop, and I think you will need to take the intake manifold loose. Just pull the four screws and lift everything up as a unit. Make sure the o-rings are in place when you put it back together. Just to be helpful the torque for the intake bolts is 90 inch pounds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyingMonkey Posted May 20, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2022 4 hours ago, Tom Baker said: That one shows up. I have a 912 in the shop, and I think you will need to take the intake manifold loose. Just pull the four screws and lift everything up as a unit. Make sure the o-rings are in place when you put it back together. Just to be helpful the torque for the intake bolts is 90 inch pounds. Thanks Tom, that is super helpful, and you even saved me having to look up the torque! Does anybody have a part number for just the left tray? I see a tray "kit" listed on CPS/Spruce for $188, but the picture looks different from what I have (have the trays changed?)... I hate to buy two trays when I only need one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towner Posted May 20, 2022 Report Share Posted May 20, 2022 The manual refers to it as a “Protection plate”. I show part # KA5030001 for the left side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyingMonkey Posted May 20, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2022 9 hours ago, Towner said: The manual refers to it as a “Protection plate”. I show part # KA5030001 for the left side. Thanks. I was thinking of a Rotax part number, but I don't know, is the one one our airplanes an FD part? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Baker Posted May 20, 2022 Report Share Posted May 20, 2022 The CTSW is a Flight Design part, and the CTLS is a Rotax part attached to the standard Rotax airbox. I would just copy the old part and make a new part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted May 20, 2022 Report Share Posted May 20, 2022 The drip tray is FD. It's fairly easy to do. I would remove the 4 screws that hold down the intake manifold. It will move far enough now to get in a ball end allen head. All these bolts on the intake and the drip tray are only 90 in/lb torques. When you replace the tray place 3/4" - 1" washers under and on top of the tray to add a sandwiched large surface contact. This will keep them from cracking and breaking in the future, There is an LOA for this from long ago when I first did this. I did have to cut the top and bottom washer outside edges straight across on the water fitting with my Dremel so the washer would go up against the 90 degree fitting and then it protrudes outward to sandwich the tray. Make sure the open end of the tray is secured by a plastic wire tie to the frame to help prevent vibration movement. This is all easy to do. call me if you have any questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyingMonkey Posted May 20, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2022 49 minutes ago, Roger Lee said: The drip tray is FD. It's fairly easy to do. I would remove the 4 screws that hold down the intake manifold. It will move far enough now to get in a ball end allen head. All these bolts on the intake and the drip tray are only 90 in/lb torques. When you replace the tray place 3/4" - 1" washers under and on top of the tray to add a sandwiched large surface contact. This will keep them from cracking and breaking in the future, There is an LOA for this from long ago when I first did this. I did have to cut the top and bottom washer outside edges straight across on the water fitting with my Dremel so the washer would go up against the 90 degree fitting and then it protrudes outward to sandwich the tray. Make sure the open end of the tray is secured by a plastic wire tie to the frame to help prevent vibration movement. This is all easy to do. call me if you have any questions. From looking at the tray a bunch lately this all makes sense. Thanks for the help and I'll be sure to bother you if I hit any snags! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyingMonkey Posted May 24, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2022 I ordered a new tray from FD-USA. $148.12 plus shipping. Still outrageous for a formed piece of sheet metal, but it could have been worse based on some other FD parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towner Posted May 24, 2022 Report Share Posted May 24, 2022 Was that price for one or both trays? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madhatter Posted May 24, 2022 Report Share Posted May 24, 2022 Repair the part.Years ago I ordered two from FD and both were built incorrectly and don't fit. I will have to reweld them if I decide to use them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyingMonkey Posted May 24, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2022 1 hour ago, Madhatter said: Repair the part.Years ago I ordered two from FD and both were built incorrectly and don't fit. I will have to reweld them if I decide to use them. Ugh, they already shipped it...I hope it fits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madhatter Posted May 24, 2022 Report Share Posted May 24, 2022 From your photo it would be an easy and stronger repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towner Posted May 25, 2022 Report Share Posted May 25, 2022 It seems every airport has someone building some model in the RV series. You can probably bring a tray to them and they can make you a new, stronger tray in 30 minutes! They pretty much become sheet metal experts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyingMonkey Posted May 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2022 10 minutes ago, Towner said: It seems every airport has someone building some model in the RV series. You can probably bring a tray to them and they can make you a new, stronger tray in 30 minutes! They pretty much become sheet metal experts! I built most of a Sonex myself, I could make my own tray. But there is something to say for having a firewall forward that appears factory and doesn't look like an abortion of "custom" parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towner Posted May 25, 2022 Report Share Posted May 25, 2022 I agree with a “factory look”, but spending $300 every couple hundred hours for something so simple seems ridiculous. Of course, it is an airplane so prices are always gonna seem pretty high. Anyway, I think a tray could be made a little stronger and still look pretty standard, so it was just a thought. Of course, my shop riveting some reinforcements on may trays really made it look bad, but it should last longer than the original. It is not the fix I expected from them when I dropped the trays off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyingMonkey Posted May 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2022 1 hour ago, Towner said: I agree with a “factory look”, but spending $300 every couple hundred hours for something so simple seems ridiculous. Of course, it is an airplane so prices are always gonna seem pretty high. Anyway, I think a tray could be made a little stronger and still look pretty standard, so it was just a thought. Of course, my shop riveting some reinforcements on may trays really made it look bad, but it should last longer than the original. It is not the fix I expected from them when I dropped the trays off. Well, to be fair only one of mine needs replacement, and it lasted 975 hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madhatter Posted May 25, 2022 Report Share Posted May 25, 2022 When I repair or make any part for any aircraft if it doesn't look professional I throw it out and start over. I have too many friends in the business who will trash me over poor quality. Sometimes it takes 3 or 4 times to get it right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towner Posted May 25, 2022 Report Share Posted May 25, 2022 That does make the pain easier! Both of mine were cracked. I really can’t complain after previously owning Pipers and a Mooney! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towner Posted May 25, 2022 Report Share Posted May 25, 2022 Well, mine work for now which keeps me flying. I’m sure I’ll eventually replace them, but thankfully I don’t expect anyone to look under my cowling before that (except me). I’m kinda interested in trying to make some myself. I don’t have much sheet metal experience, but it sounds like fun. They’ll probably look bad too and I’ll order some new ones, but little projects at the airport keep me out of trouble away from the airport! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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