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Actual Cost Rotax 5 Year Rubber


Adam

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi All,

 

Important!

 

New info that will help anyone doing a hose change.

One of the fuel hoses that CPS supplies is 5/16" fuel injection hose. The only issue has been there are 5 brass fittings that this hose is used for and it is an act of God to get the hose over the fittings because it is a rated pressure hose and it doesn't flex hardly at all.

I would highly recommend that you use regular 5/16" carburetor fuel hose. It is not supposed to be used for fuel injection, but is fine for our use normal fuel system pressure. We may have as high as 5-6 psi. This hose is slightly more flexible and is easy to push over the brass fitting ends. This hose can be purchased at any automotive store.

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Roger, we REALLY wrestled with that fuel injection hose when I did my replacement. It actually concerned me that some of the fittings would be damaged or compromised due to the force it took to get the rubber hose over the fittings. Use of the more flexible hose will really be a welcome change for those who haven't done the replacement yet.

 

The obvious question here is.....will a LOA be required to use the "non-fuel injection" type hose?

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  • 2 months later...

Motor mount verification

My mechanic is in the process of changing the hoses and also the motor mounts. I ordered new mounts based on Roger Lee suggestion directly from Fiat, Holland.

 

These new mounts are harder than the old ones. Is this correct and also are these mounts the same as I would get if ordered directly from Flight Design? My mechanic indicates that the new mounts do not have saame the number as the old mounts have. Want to make sure we're doing this correctly.

 

Rogerck

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This is a copy off the Rotax owners forum.

 

I just completed a 5 year hose replacement on a CTSW with a 912ULS. I found an oil hose that had a split in it. Last week on a different Rotax, I found a fuel line that was cracked in three places. This hose was only 4 years old, with less than 400 hours on it. Also, the o-rings on the fuel caps and gascolator were all in bad shape.

Cammie Patch

LSRM-A, WS, PP

FI, CFII, MEI, ATP

www.glasscockpitaviation.com

 

 

 

Just goes to show you don't know when it will happen, 4 years, 5 years7 years who knows when it will happen, but at least Rotax is trying to make sure we stay in the air and not balled up on the ground. I had an oil line about 6 weeks ago that was split and the only saving grace, it was the oil vent line. Why it had a 3" split I have no idea, it just hangs there with no pressure. It might have been from an exhaust leak off the #4 exhaust knuckle blowing on it?

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Hi Al,

 

Here is the Rotax web page for service help and below that is the FD service centers.

 

http://rotaxirmt.info/

 

http://flightdesignu...ervice-centers/

 

There is Tom Baker ans Scott Caverly. Both up in your area. I don't have their numbers, but I'm sure you can google them and they'll pop up. I'm sure they're on the FD website under service centers.

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I've used Kent Johnson at Stanton and am very satisfied with him and will return. He did my last annual, did a good review of and acted on applicable SBs, After that annual, I had my plane in a LSMR-A class at Oshkosh taught by Brian and Carol Carpenter and they found no issues with his maintenance. He has a nice grass strip with two runways.

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  • 8 years later...
12 hours ago, Isham said:

This is a really old topic, but what are your latest experiences with the 5-year rubber cost?  Did you buy a kit?  Owner assist? Have it done by a shop?

Depends on who does it.  I sourced all the rubber myself and did the work myself (E-LSA) and spent about $800.  Having an E-LSA airplane I was able to use equivalent parts and not only what FD specified.  If you pay somebody to do it using FD blessed parts, you should budget $2500-3000.  It's a big job and there are a lot of hours involved.  It took me and a friend two full ten hour days.  The engine has to be detached from the firewall to access the rear hoses, the exhaust system has to come off to replace the cabin heater duct, you have to do an oil purge after replacing the oil lines...it's just a lot of time-consuming work. 

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I appreciate the input.  Mine is SLSA but I work with an IA so will do it under owner assist.  I will need to get the approved parts.  Although things like SCAT hose I can probably get from Spruce.  I plan to reuse the hose fire sleeves.

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27 minutes ago, Isham said:

I appreciate the input.  Mine is SLSA but I work with an IA so will do it under owner assist.  I will need to get the approved parts.  Although things like SCAT hose I can probably get from Spruce.  I plan to reuse the hose fire sleeves.

IIRC Tom uses all approved parts when he does a change, and I think he said it's something like $1200-1400 for everything. 

Also, I forgot to mention...I inspected and did not see a reason to replace the thick rubber carb sockets on the intakes, and they are pricey.  So that saved me $300-400 right off the top in parts.  I inspect them closely whenever the cowl is off and will replace them when necessary.

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51 minutes ago, FlyingMonkey said:

Also, I forgot to mention...I inspected and did not see a reason to replace the thick rubber carb sockets on the intakes, and they are pricey.  So that saved me $300-400 right off the top in parts.  I inspect them closely whenever the cowl is off and will replace them when necessary.

Just FYI, the one that I have seen failed a quick visual inspection would not have caught. The rubber separated from the metal plate. From the outside everything looked great, until you pulled on the carb.

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7 minutes ago, Tom Baker said:

Just FYI, the one that I have seen failed a quick visual inspection would not have caught. The rubber separated from the metal plate. From the outside everything looked great, until you pulled on the carb.

Yeah, I pull the carb and inspect the inside every month or two.  So far so good.

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