mocfly Posted December 17, 2011 Report Share Posted December 17, 2011 Group, I am taking the plunge and remote mounting the oil pressure sender and have a few questions for those that know the answers. 1. When mounting the sender is it ok to just drill thru the firewall for the clamp? Or is there a special procedure? 2. There are 2 different types of clamps in the kit. One type is the pressure type. Like a crimp connector and the other is a screw type. Which is used where? 3. The unit i took off had 2 terminals. One wire/White went back to the gauge as the signal wire. The other/Black. Went directly to the engine ground. The gauge ground connects to the bus. I am thinking of just running the ground from the sender directly to the pin on the gauge, same with the signal wire. 4. The kit had a very large dia. firehose. Does this go around the sender? 5. Does anyone have pictures of how they have the sender mounter to the firewall? 6. Are there also pictures of the oil pressure hose routing? How does this look for the oil line route? http://youtu.be/iQU7iceJorw Thanks to all. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted December 18, 2011 Report Share Posted December 18, 2011 Hi Chris, Two more questions and we would have a novel. 1. just drill through the firewall. 2. use the large Adle clamp to hold it to the firewall. Put a washer on the inside firewall side bolt. The bolt goes from inside to outside. The Oetiker clamp goes on the fitting on the engine and the screw clamp down on the hose at the sender. 3. When you do a remote mount you have to change from the single pole sender that gets its ground from the engine to the double pole sender. One is the signal to the instrument and the other goes to any ground source. 4. The oil line is supposed to be encased in the orange fire sleeve. It should be a #10 sleeve, but I have seen Lockwood send #14 which is really too big, but it will work. (Looks like a skinny man in a fat mans pants) You can cut a piece of the fire sleeve to wrap around the sender for heat protection and hold it on with wire ties. 5. picture and approval;<br class="Apple-interchange-newline">http://ctflier.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach§ion=attach&attach_id=92 6. Route the line up on the inside of the #1 exhaust pipe and up along the coolant lines just above the muffler. Then on back to the firewall and then down under the battery. Put your clamp there. Wire tie the line up by the coolant hoses together. Wire tie the sender wires to the fire sleeve. Ta Da, your done. I take back what I said; This is a novel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mocfly Posted December 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2011 Roger How does this look for the route? Chris http://youtu.be/iQU7iceJorw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted December 18, 2011 Report Share Posted December 18, 2011 here is the approval letter under our FD approval thread. Picture included. http://ctflier.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach§ion=attach&attach_id=92 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted December 18, 2011 Report Share Posted December 18, 2011 Hi Chris, I saw the Youtube video. It looks good, just put wire ties on it to secure the hose. I noticed a brown streak going down your engine mount tube. That usually means a fuel leak up at the drip trays from the carb bowl gasket. I also noticed you have an exhaust gas leak on the back muffler joint. You can help this by three things. 1. looks like you need a little more spring tension on the exhaust springs. 2. loosen the front two exhaust tubes by loosening the nuts on the front two and the top ones on the rear exhaust tube. Then go over to the left side and put your foot up against the muffler end and push it 1" over to the right side to better align the muffler sockets. 3. Use some header wrap around the muffler sockets. or do all three which is the best fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mocfly Posted December 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2011 Roger, How do you get the air out of the remote line? Does a procedure exist? Do ou even need to prime the line? Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted December 18, 2011 Report Share Posted December 18, 2011 Hi Chris, You don't need to prime it. The little air in the line will rise and clear the system by itself.. Give it a few minutes after the first start to settle down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mocfly Posted December 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2011 Roger, Pressure finally came up. Nice and steady. Time for a test flight. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mocfly Posted December 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2011 Test flight went great. Oil pressure nice and steady. One item we did was bypass the main ground bus. My hope is that we have a more stable ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted December 19, 2011 Report Share Posted December 19, 2011 You could have used any ground the sender wouldn't care. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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