Jim Posted September 9, 2012 Report Share Posted September 9, 2012 I was out doing some owner PM this afternoon and noticed the right side drip tray cable tie was gone and one of the support wings was broken off. This is the second time this has happened. 360 hours on the engine. The left side broke at about 280 hours. Any suggestions other than check the cable ties every few hours? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted September 9, 2012 Report Share Posted September 9, 2012 I have a fix that has an LOA. It is under the LOA main post here on the forum. We have been doing this for about 5 years. I would recommend that all CTSW's do it as the trays will eventually break at the tabs because of the small washer support which will also allow the trays to crack at the edges. I just did one 2 days ago that had a broken tab. Get some 1" x 6mm or some 1/4" fender washers. You'll need 8 of them. Four will remain intact. Four need to be cut so there is a flat straight edge very close to the hole. So the washer now looks like a quarter with about 1/8" cut off one side. These will go under the 90 degree coolant flange screw on the #3 and #4 screw where the drip tray flange slides under. The other washers that are still intact go under the drip tray screw on the outside. The coolant flange screws are plenty long enough, but the outside drip tray screw may need to be a little longer. You will have to remove the 4 screws that hold the air intake manifold down and each side as you work on each side to access these inside flange screws. After the washers are in place leave them a little loose and slide the drip tray tabs in between the large fender washers. Then tighten the screws down to 90 in/lbs. Put a new plastic wire tie on each. They shouldn't break again with the large support area of the washers. This takes me about 45 min to do both sides and cut the washers. http://ctflier.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach§ion=attach&attach_id=100 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted September 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2012 Thanks Roger, I'll do it and get my A&P to sign it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Runtoeat Posted September 9, 2012 Report Share Posted September 9, 2012 Roger, the LOA shows rubber washers are used. Do you use rubber or just use the steel washers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted September 9, 2012 Report Share Posted September 9, 2012 That was the very first setup, but I have found the rubber washers aren't necessary. Just using a much larger surface area to support the tray was fine. If you feel you want them then by all means add them. Don't put them under the coolant screw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Runtoeat Posted September 9, 2012 Report Share Posted September 9, 2012 Hi Roger. I'm on the same page as you when it comes to rubber washers. I'll stick with adding more support area by just using steel washers but will round out any sharp edges that create stress points. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug G. Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 What??? You are using an unapproved mod Roger? How can this be? :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 The FD fleet approval for this mod is mine and the Pics are from my plane, so are others in the FD LOA's. I have to use them and test these mods before I send in a report to FD to get the LOA's. If you have Matco's on an LS or retrofitted your SW that was from testing on my SW. Once in a while you may find a mod here in Tucson that is being tested before paperwork gets submitted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug G. Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 Sorry, Roger it was meant as a light hearted jab. It seems though that there is something I do not understand here. You can do the mods and after apply for an LOA? (Or has your SW been moved to ELSA?) How does this process work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 Hi dggrant, I took no offence and I'm good. I saw your smiley face. Not much ever bothers me. I usually always research and test all my mods before I send LOA's in for approval so I know they work or help. If they went in prematurely then it could be an issue for owners. Technically it is backwards doing the testing first, but it is the best way. If it doesn't work, like using different types of wing fuel vents, then there is no mis-information put through FD or out to other owners. Most want to do a mod to just their plane and I try to find common solutions for the fleet so my approach is a little different. p.s. This is one reason I dislike emails and forum post is you can't always discern the tone , seriousness or joking inference at times in a post. p.s.s. You have a range of emotions or smiley faces up in the edit bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug G. Posted September 11, 2012 Report Share Posted September 11, 2012 Yeah, in the full version but most of the time I am using my Android tablet, and I only have the traditional emoticons available. Thanks for the info. I wonder though what keeps things from basically being experimental -- do it first, then see if you can get it okayed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted September 11, 2012 Report Share Posted September 11, 2012 I wouldn't always call it above board, but sometimes an LOA may take 8 months and if they issued an LOA then the testing failed it would be a problem. I have talk to FD first at times and got a verbal okay, but haven't done that as much when the LS's came out. I did more on the SW and only a few items for the LS. Some mods can be useful on both. This drip tray mod is only good for the SW the LS has a totally different factory setup. Matter of fact I did a drip tray mod today and last Friday. Both had broken trays due to the small screw that holds them down. The vibration on that small area causes them to flex and break. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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