chanik Posted January 1, 2013 Report Share Posted January 1, 2013 I've finished all the electrical tweeks I wanted on my CTSW so I figured I would list them out. The only mechanical change I made was the Matcos and monster retread tires (much nicer). When I got my plane, the battery was always depleted, the blindingly bright voltage warning light would come on if I ran the landing light, there was substantial noise in my ANR headsets. It wasn't good. Much of these are described elsewhere in this forum so I'll summarize here and most of which can be seen in this picture: http://www.johnea.ne...rt/P1020211.JPG Add a diode to the feedback on the Ducati regulator. This pushed my charging voltage from 12.9V (much too low) to 13.7V. 13.9 would have been ideal but 13.7 is close enough. Roger looked at this on other birds and sometimes it is fine, sometimes it is ~1/2V low and some are like mine, very low. The ~13.4V systems would benefit from a Schottkey diode instead on the PIN diode (0.8V) that I used. Switch to LED landing/Taxi light. The AEON V5 Aurora bulbs were the best I could see online but they are still too wide at 30 deg, not well sealed and only 7W (450Lm). So I finally made my own 15deg MR16 bulb for 25W and ~2700Lm which makes it twice as bright as the halogen bulb it displaced Replace the Odyssey with a LiFeP battery. That saves me 4 lbs, has better cold cranking and capacity and should last 2-3x as long cycle life. $160 LFX18 series from Shorai. I made a new fiberglass battery box rather than hack the existing box as it did not fit exactly. Replace the way too little capacitor. Rotax calls for a 22mF, 25V cap minimum and bare minimum is a better description of it. The one FD uses is an HA series. the internal resistance is fairly high so it is only rated to 4.3Amps of ripple which would easily be exceeded if the battery went open circuit. With all the lights running, you would have 3x its rated ripple current and it would overheat and fail in short order. You would hear it too. They go off like little sticks of dynamite. Replaced with a 100mF monster. , http://capacitoredge...=ALS40A104KF025 16+ amps rated ripple and >2x the rated life. Size matters in caps. As you can see, this one is big. One nice side effect, all the noise is gone. I tried my new aveo lights jury rigged to a cig ligher plug and the LED switcher landing light and everything else on. Whisper quiet in the headsets. Aveo UltraLP postion/strobe lights. http://aircraftprodu...ave-wpstg-r-403 The german ones are fading and not very bright to begin with. One of the green strings is gone out too. These new monsters draw 400mA for the color/ rear-facing white and 3.0Amps pulsed when they are strobing for an average of 800mA each total current. Bobby Cau had a problem with these big current pulses with his plane. But they are truly blinding. Will install them as soon as the rain and cold subside a bit. That's about all I can think of to fiddle with. I'm E-LSA but of these changes, #1 would be dubious without an LOA. It's a tiny change but you are still changing the wiring. #2 is fine since no wiring is changed or added and FD doesn't specify anything specific WRT landing bulbs. #3 is certainly in need of an LOA as FD does specifically describe acceptable batteries. Worth getting though. Much nicer battery. #4 is allowed since ROTAX just specifies the cap as a 22mF minimum. They really should have tightened up this spec since there are, in fact, worse 22mF caps that could be used here with even lower ripple current ratings. #5 should have an LOA since it is a significant change from their specified parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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