Panel overheating

[Ed Cesnalis]

I've always had trouble with my EFIS overheating, useually 1-2 hours into a flight, then i installed a good quality muffin fan and can control the temps. the big black mushroom with no openings is a bit of a solar oven.

 

i was parked in the sun for 2 days and when i got ready to depart in the afternoon my EFIS was overheated at startup, 150degreesF!

 

i might start parking with a sectional unfolded over my glare-shield.

[Roger Lee]

Dynon's had the same problem and we have a 3.6" or 92mm computer fan in each map holder under the panel to move some air. Covering the plane with a light colored material while in the sun does help.

 

Just for further info for the guys with these fans. If one goes out then a computer store will have a replacement. Radio Shack will have them.

 

 

 

 

 

p.s.

I know some hear are glad that I didn't say Ace Hardware. :lol:

[Ed Cesnalis]

i put in a radio shack muffin fan temporarily and then got a high quality industrial fan to replace it with. The replacement has better bearings and moves a lot of air.

[Runtoeat]

Is there an available 12v source that's available under the dash to use to power the fans?

 

 

[Roger Lee]

Yes, you can hook it up to many sources, but you want them hook up so when the power comes on and the units start up they are working. Power is everywhere in the panel.

[Ed Cesnalis]

from other forum:

 

This fan was very specifically chosen by Flight Design for things like flow, pressure, noise, power consumption, reliability etc.. and is not a generic computer fan. Using any other part without specific written authorization (LOA) from Flight Design will invalidate your SLSA airworthiness certificate.

 

John

[Roger Lee]

I'm going to pull the part number and Mfg off that fan and see how specific it really is. I bet it can be had on line and if it is the same part even though not directly from FD then it isn't illegal. There are parts that come only from Europe and instead of using them FD has given permission to use US parts on a case by case basis. There are several parts on a CT that FD buys here in the stats and don't come from Germany any more.

Time to research again.

[Roger Lee]

Hi All,

 

Hi ED,

You can cut and post this on the other forum if you want.

 

 

 

The cooling fans in the map holders that circulate air for the Dynon units is pretty much a standard computer or case cooling fan. I pulled the exact model out of the CT's and it is an Emb-Papst 3412. I did some research and it can be found every where on the internet. The company is in Farmington, CT in the US. The phone number is 860-674-1515. I listed below three common places to buy this circulating fan. The specs are all pretty average for a circulating fan. 49 CFM, 12V, Voltage range 7-15V,

92mm (L) X92MM (W) X 25MM (thickness) and ball bearing type shaft. The fan price ranges from $6 on Ebay to $25 from a name brand company.

You just got to love the internet for info and research.

You can use this fan from these companies because it is a direct and exact model replacement. So lonmg as you do not deviate from this MFG and model no LOA would be needed.

 

 

Just think how this would have been done 30-40 years ago.

 

 

 

 

 

http://www.alliedele...spx?SKU=6003415

 

http://www.onlinecom...EBM-PAPST/3412/

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/...DefaultDomain_0

[Runtoeat]

OK Roger, you knew your post would illicit another question. How about adding this fan to my CTSW which doesn't have Dynon panels? I note that my Garmin 327 transponder feels pretty warm when I touch the right side of it during flight. Althought the Garmin 327 is built tough, heat is a killer of electronics. It would be nice to add a cooling fan to circulate the air behind the panel. Think I'd need a LOA to add a fan?

[Roger Lee]

The Dynon's were more susceptible to higher temps and that's why fans were originally added. You other instruments are fine. I wouldn't worry about them. The one thing I would check is to make sure your cabin heat is in its correct sockets and is off during the warm months as this wild definitely over heat the back panel area. Some even disconnect the cabin heat tube before it goes into the distribution box in the engine compartment and just let the hose hang down and all hot air is taken out through the bottom of the cowl. If you added fans you would have to get the LOA.

[Runtoeat]

Roger, interesting that you mention to check the alignment of the heater hoses inside the instrument panel. I didn't have very good cabin heat last winter so I checked things out this spring. The cross tube which diverts the engine heat to the two outlets with diverters on each side of the cowl was out of position and the heat flow was just hitting the cowl and finding it's way out to the foot areas. I twisted the cross tube to direct the hot air flow directily out thru the diverters and should have much better heat this winter. To cut off the heat for the summer, I was going to disconnect the hose at the heater control box as you suggest but readjustment of the heater box door seems to effectively cut off the hot air for summer.