Runtoeat Posted March 7, 2013 Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 My friend just had the 5 year rubber change done on his CTLS (has thermostat system) and he is getting high head temps after starting. The high temp condition goes away after running the engine rpms up for a few mintues. We suspect that air got into the cooling system during refill and we're looking for the recommended way to eliminate the air. The temps go back to normal until the engine is stopped and then the procedure must be repeated. The new coolant lines don't appear to have any kinks. Comments would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted March 7, 2013 Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 Hi Dick, In 40 + hose changes with several different types of LSA I have never had to purge a coolant system or had it over heat. After 1-2 runs it should have coolant everywhere. I would double check to make sure the thermostat lines were routed to the right places and check and make sure a line that had a fire sleeve heat shield applied not get squeezed down too far and restrict the hose diameter. The coolant system is open and the coolant should seek its on level to the top. The thermostat can pass coolant even when it is closed. If it has been run a few times it is unlikely trapped air. I would look for another cause. Double check the coolant level and reservoir tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Runtoeat Posted March 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 Hi Roger, thanks for the reply. We'll recheck for kinked hoses, proper routing and coolant level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted March 7, 2013 Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 Hi Dick, The hoses may or may not necessarily be kinked in the strict since, but check to see if applied plastic wire ties have reduced the radius. The other place to really look is up on top with the coolant lines coming off the filler tank. The Rotax supplied lines are a little thinner and more pliable and FD has also re-positioned that tank from the factory setup so the hoses take a different rout and FD didn't re-align the 90 degree coolant elbows on top of the cyl. heads to be perfectly in line. Some of these coolant hoses when replaced now get kinked from the bend they need to take. I have had to add springs inside the hose (common practice) on many to keep the hose fully open. Check the #1, #3 and #4 cly. hose on top. Check the thermostat hose routing to make sure each hose off that is going to the right place. If one was switched it may lead to some odd readings until open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Runtoeat Posted March 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 Hi Roger. Checked things out and you made a good call regarding improper hose routing. This was the problem. The mechanic and I found out about the spring trick to keep the sharp bends from causing kinks when my 2006 CTSW got the rubber change. This is especially needed in the hoses running between the expansion tank and cylinders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted March 13, 2013 Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 Hi Dick, Glad it worked out. All CT's have at least one spring, most two and I have had to add a third at times. It isn't a big deal. It's an accepted practice in many engine applications. For the newer guys, The newer 17mm coolant hose seems to be more pliable so it will kink a little on 2-3 hoses on top. It doesn't happen to everyone's and depends a little on the 90 degree elbow alignment. You can just install the springs and or re-align the 90 degree elbow tube coming out of the head on each cyl. This isn't done by FD at the factory even though they changed the orientation of the coolant tank hoses. If the hoses are just a little out of alignment when your done you can loosen the hoses with the screw clamps and pull the tank in the direction you want it and the hose will shift to either help straighten them or keep the coolant tank from rubbing on the cross over tube on the carbs. Do not let the coolant tank rub on that aluminum cross over tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul m Posted March 13, 2013 Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 Thanks Roger. For us newer guys (or maybe just me), any pictures at all would help us to understand some of this stuff a little better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Runtoeat Posted March 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 Paul M, here's a shot of the hoses that make sharp bends. The hose on the right in the picture with the small patch of fire sleeve makes a 120 degree bend after coming from the expansion reservoir to the cylinder head and this is one that most will probably opt for adding a spring to. The hose on the left is a pre-formed Rotax hose and also has a spring from the factory as I recall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul m Posted March 13, 2013 Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 Thanks Dick! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozairangel Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Are you using internal or external springs?..........D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Internal springs. Usually 3"-3.5" long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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