Roger Lee Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Hi All just an FYI, I did a 1000 hr. general maint. yesterday on an LS that is 2 years old. It does a lot of training and rentals. So we rebuilt the carbs. Several "O" rings were shot and had dry rot type multiple cracks and when they were removed just broke off. Otherwise they were clean. Why so much "O" ring cracks after only two years. It had nothing to do with just time alone, but the 1000 hrs of use and heating cycles and ethanol fuels may not have helped. Once your plane (any with a Rotax 912) gets to 6+ years you may think about all the "O" rings regardless of the hours. Check your carb drip trays at times for cracking on both the SW and the LS. One was completely broken through on the LS. The gearbox inspection and re-shim wasn't any issue and nothing was found there as far as wear and it was clean because it gets a fairly strict diet of 91 oct. I did install new Bellville washers. The Neuform prop was due to be inspected. It had cracks that went cross ways on the backs of the blades. In the black color they can be hard to see so look closely. It most likely was the gel coat, but without getting under the gel coat and sending it back to FD for an inspection who really knows. It would have been at least a $1000+ to get it re-done. We put a Sensenich 3 blade 68" prop on. No issues there and that's pretty straight forward. (If you ever need a Sensenich prop I can probably save you a couple of dollars). Just an FYI on what you may see or expect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogerck Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Were the exhausts and headers heat wrapped on this plane? It would be interesting to compare the differences in o rings, motor mounts, rubber hoses, etc, over time to see if heat wrapping makes a difference. I would think that lower engine compartment temps are always a good thing. Roger Kuhn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted March 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Hi Roger, They were not wrapped. I did not do a full inspection just the few 1000 hr. items. I didn't notice any thing glaringly wrong, but I wasn't looking at the finer details. It was a long day as he needed to be able to fly home so it was an all day project just for the other items. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyingMonkey Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 Roger, do you recommend exhaust wrapping? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted June 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 Hi Andy, I do. It keeps the radiated and connected heat off the hoses and wiring. It also helps with some under the cowl heat. It's fairly easy to do and some of us have had it for at least 6 years now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug G. Posted June 18, 2013 Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 Rotax and/or FD approved? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted June 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 FD fleet approval. Look under our LOA section. Rotax is good with it too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug G. Posted June 18, 2013 Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 Thanks, Roger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted June 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 Hi Doug, I personally think it is a worth while mod. It's easy to do and helps protect under the cowl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyingMonkey Posted June 19, 2013 Report Share Posted June 19, 2013 Does the wrap stick to itself, or does it rely on the tightness of the wrap and clamps on the ends to keep it in place? Any gotchas on wrapping, such as keeping it off EGT sensors, or anything like that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted June 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2013 It is the tightness and clamps. Only over wrap each edge by 3/8" and dampen the cloth, don't soak it. Keep it off the EGT sensors or it will mess with the temps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FastEddieB Posted June 19, 2013 Report Share Posted June 19, 2013 Does the wrap stick to itself, or does it rely on the tightness of the wrap and clamps on the ends to keep it in place? Any gotchas on wrapping, such as keeping it off EGT sensors, or anything like that? I did my Sky Arrow (and my Buell with some I had left over!), if you want to get together and compare notes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyingMonkey Posted June 19, 2013 Report Share Posted June 19, 2013 Thanks Eddie, when the time comes I'd love to do that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
207WF Posted June 30, 2013 Report Share Posted June 30, 2013 I had the header wrap early on, but over time it degraded and I eventually got this fine particulate matter all over everything. I took it off and noticed no change in operating temps (I do have the high oil temp problem). WF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted June 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2013 Using the header wrap should no affect the operating temps. Just protect the hoses, wire insulation and under the cowl temps. It will help stop exhaust blow-by at the joints from blowing on the springs, hoses and on the #3 cyl. keep it off the rubber engine mount. Hi Wayne, How have you been? It should last a number of years unless someone is rubbed on it and tore it. It does get fragile over time. It may need replacement after a few years, but that's easy to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
207WF Posted July 25, 2013 Report Share Posted July 25, 2013 I also have some scars on the backs of my hands that will forever remind me of my ham-handed efforts putting the wrapping on! WF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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