Craig Posted May 31, 2013 Report Posted May 31, 2013 Is it possible? Has anyone? If possible, what would be required to add electric trim to a CTSW? Specifically stabilator. Thanks!
Jim Posted May 31, 2013 Report Posted May 31, 2013 Prolly easier to fit it with a single channel autopilot. Especially if you already have a Dynon.
Craig Posted May 31, 2013 Author Report Posted May 31, 2013 Craig, Curious about why you ask? Well, I probably shouldn't admit this, but I'm in flight training in the CT, and when doing touch and go's, my finger gets worn out (a blister on it) from the repeated trim up/trim down. I did an intro flight in a C172 last year, and while not electric, the trim system seemed faster and easier to use (the C172 wasn't electric either, but seeing as it would be neigh to impossible to fit the C172 trim system on a CTSW, the more logical choice seemed to fit a system designed for a similar air-frame (CTLS) by the same manufacturer). Truly, something as simple as a rubber coated trim wheel vs. the aluminum with hard corners would stop my whining. I probably should just man up, and check to make sure my skirt isn't caught in the trim wheel.
FastEddieB Posted May 31, 2013 Report Posted May 31, 2013 I probably should just man up, and check to make sure my skirt isn't caught in the trim wheel. Kilt! It's a kilt!
kentuckynet Posted May 31, 2013 Report Posted May 31, 2013 my remos had electirc elevator trim and i really miss not having it on my ctsw! i would be in the market for some type of aftermarket electric trim if you find anything. the wheel ribs are toooooo small and the wheel is too stiff for such small ribs.
FredG Posted May 31, 2013 Report Posted May 31, 2013 Craig, I trained in my CTsw and have 1800 landings, now. At least 1000 were T&G. No blisters. I wonder if the trim on your trainer is excessively stiff. Might be worth having someone familiar with the trim system make a careful inspection.
mocfly Posted May 31, 2013 Report Posted May 31, 2013 Craig, I agree with Fred. I must admit I never thought of it as hard to adjust. Is there another CT close by to get a look at?
sandpiper Posted June 1, 2013 Report Posted June 1, 2013 Mine moves easily, would not need an electric trim for that reason.
Jim Meade Posted June 1, 2013 Report Posted June 1, 2013 I'm another who is looking for electric trim augmentation on a CTSW. I'd especially like it for rudder trim, as I do some longer flights at higher altitude and don't like to sit with my foot into the rudder pedal all that long. One may say that the CTSW doesn't need electric trim, but real airplanes have electric trim and real pilots like it, so I'm not interested in defending a personal preference.
Craig Posted June 1, 2013 Author Report Posted June 1, 2013 Craig, I agree with Fred. I must admit I never thought of it as hard to adjust. Is there another CT close by to get a look at? This is a trainer, and the only one I have access to around here (or at least the only one I know of), I'm looking forward to checking out another CT eventually, as well as hopefully buying one.
Adam Posted June 1, 2013 Report Posted June 1, 2013 Wear a thin glove... (I play drums as a hobby, I play with intensity and without a glove on my left hand I'd wear the skin right off my thumb). In all seriousness, I'd suspect something amiss with the plane if the wheel is that hard to turn. Since we are all admitting things... I'll also admit that in practicing touch and goes I rarely touch the trim at all. I typically leave the trim neutral and just fly the airplane (more stick and rudder, less trim). Good luck with your training and eventual checkride. Welcome to the club! As an aside, the new CTLSi does have electric stabilator trim.
Jim Meade Posted June 1, 2013 Report Posted June 1, 2013 As Adam points out, many who fly pattern work or even short, local flights, simply "put the leg into it" and don't adjust trim. It's another reason why we should all periodically get out of the pattern. Fly to another airport 20-30-40 miles away and actually train in a mini-cross-country environment. Break out of the school figure routine of pattern practice where one often short cuts certain steps. Climb to 3,000 AGL or more. Instead of working your flaps to accommodate a pattern, train with them as if you were flying somewhere. Get your speeds, altitudes, etc. based on a departure. Pick a suitable pitch attitude for cruise climb and set rudder trim as if you'd be in it for 15 minutes. When you get to cruise altitude, actually do a cruise checklist. What? Haven't done one since the checkride? It may be short, such as set RPM, check flaps, verify nav settings and information, etc. but it gets you caught up with and hopefully even ahead of your airplane. Plan a descent. Do a descent checklist. Get your weather ahead of time, set radio frequencies, get a feel for what's happening on the frequency. Get a plan for generally what speeds and flap settings you'll use. Do a landing checklist. Fuel on proper tank? Radios set? Do you know the wind speed and direction in the pattern? Patterns. Bah! Humbug! Train with real flying if you can.
WmInce Posted June 1, 2013 Report Posted June 1, 2013 As Adam points out, many who fly pattern work or even short, local flights, simply "put the leg into it" and don't adjust trim. It's another reason why we should all periodically get out of the pattern. Fly to another airport 20-30-40 miles away and actually train in a mini-cross-country environment. Break out of the school figure routine of pattern practice where one often short cuts certain steps. Climb to 3,000 AGL or more. Instead of working your flaps to accommodate a pattern, train with them as if you were flying somewhere. Get your speeds, altitudes, etc. based on a departure. Pick a suitable pitch attitude for cruise climb and set rudder trim as if you'd be in it for 15 minutes. When you get to cruise altitude, actually do a cruise checklist. What? Haven't done one since the checkride? It may be short, such as set RPM, check flaps, verify nav settings and information, etc. but it gets you caught up with and hopefully even ahead of your airplane. Plan a descent. Do a descent checklist. Get your weather ahead of time, set radio frequencies, get a feel for what's happening on the frequency. Get a plan for generally what speeds and flap settings you'll use. Do a landing checklist. Fuel on proper tank? Radios set? Do you know the wind speed and direction in the pattern? Patterns. Bah! Humbug! Train with real flying if you can. Great advice Jim.
Craig Posted June 1, 2013 Author Report Posted June 1, 2013 Thanks for the tips. I haven't yet got to touch the rudder trim yet. I've only got 6.5 hours, so I guess rudder trim will happen when we get to cross country training?
sandpiper Posted June 1, 2013 Report Posted June 1, 2013 I'm bot a big believer in touch and goes. Prefer stop and goes with a long enough runway and if the tower (if any) approves. Otherwise I prefer the taxi back.
Runtoeat Posted June 2, 2013 Report Posted June 2, 2013 Craig, probably a lot of different opinions on using trim/not using trim but I'm in the "set and forget" group. Like Jim and Adam, for pattern work, I set the trim to a neutral position and just fly my CTSW using stick and rudder for attitude adjustments. For x country trips or to achieve a stabilized speed when practicing "engine out" glides, the trim is used. One comment about efforts to adjust the trim - my friend's CTLS has a pitch trim that is very hard to work. One must actually lean over the pitch trim and push down hard on the wheel to get enough traction of one's thumb on the wheel to get this to rotate. He hasn't explored why this is so hard to move due to him also being in the "set and forget" camp. Personally, I would want to find out why the pitch trim is so stiff and get it loosened up if this were my plane. My CTSW's pitch trim is very easy to rotate.
Runtoeat Posted June 2, 2013 Report Posted June 2, 2013 Hi Roger. Seem to recall loosening the pivot bolt for the pitch trim wheel and this didn't reduce turning stiffness? We'll have to look at this. Seems like it wasn't a simple loosen the bolt situation.
Jim Meade Posted June 3, 2013 Report Posted June 3, 2013 I talked with these people at Oshkosh last year but didn't pursue it past that stage. I may speak with them more seriously this year. http://www.rayallencompany.com/products/trimsystems.html
Doug G. Posted June 3, 2013 Report Posted June 3, 2013 Just saw a new CTLSi. Besides the injected engine it had electric trim, the integrated Dynon autopilot, and dual 10" Dynon Skyview displays that you could arrange to show what you wanted on each display. A couple of other little things like notched wheel pants (for the valve stem) and a warning light when you are down to the 1.6 gal. the header tank holds. Nice planes. Stanton has three more coming and one is unsold if anyone is interested.
207WF Posted June 4, 2013 Report Posted June 4, 2013 I find that the cruise rudder setting does change a bit depending on how I am loaded, so adjusting it is part of my level off for cruise check list. My pneumonic is: A clean (flaps -6), light (landing light as desired), trim (set elevator and rudder trim for hands off flying) machine. WF
FlyingMonkey Posted June 4, 2013 Report Posted June 4, 2013 Craig and I are training in the same aircraft, the stabilator trim wheel is definitely very stiff. We both noticed it and complained to each other after our first flights. It either seemed easier or I got more used to it on the second flight, but it's not what I would call "easy" to turn. If there's a way to adjust it, and it were my aircraft, I would take 75% of the resistance out of it.
mocfly Posted June 4, 2013 Report Posted June 4, 2013 Andy, Mention it to your CFI and the aircraft owner. If we can make it next month to the EAA breakfast you will see how easy our wheel advances. Just for reference.
FlyingMonkey Posted June 4, 2013 Report Posted June 4, 2013 Andy, Mention it to your CFI and the aircraft owner. If we can make it next month to the EAA breakfast you will see how easy our wheel advances. Just for reference. Thanks Chris!
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