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Oil Change Intervals


FlyingMonkey

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I was under the impression that the best oil change intervals are 50hr for mogas and 25hr for 30%+ 100LL use.

 

The video below has an oil discussion with Phil Lockwood stating that the correct interval should be 100hr for mogas, 50hr for 30%+ 100LL, and 25hr for 50%+ 100LL use. Discuss?

 

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The oil change interval depends BOTH on fuel type AND oil type. Full synthetics with Mogas can go 100 hrs.

 

You had better be careful about this. Roger can give you chapter and verse, but when I attended the Rotax course they were very emphatic that the most important aspect of the oil was that it was motorcycle oil as the oil lubricates the engine as well as the gear reducer. It needs to have the proper additives to do both.

 

Also nonsynthetic oils are best for 100LL as they help keep the lead in suspension. I believe aeroshell is a semisynthetic with the proper additives for the gear box.

 

Also, I don't beleive the change interval has anything to do with the oil type.

 

Here's the latest Rotax Service Instruction on operating fluids. I think this allows up to 100 hrs.

SI-912-016 R4.pdf

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I have been changing my oil every 50 hours when running on mogas. At that time the oil is quite black and analysis afterwards show it is still good. I know they are saying now that you can go 100 hours between changes, but since the oil gets quite black I will stick with my 50 hours.

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At 50 hours mine was still quite clean. That was when I did the last change. I am at about 40 hours now and the oil is still looking very good. I use Aeroshell Sport Plus 4 and (so far) exclusively mogas. I am thinking about something in between 50 and 100 hours this time which would put me changing oil and regapping (or changing) plugs before the cold weather sets in.

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CTLSi, I will be using Decalin also, but it does not get rid of the lead, it suspends it so that it causes less accumulation, it does not elimnate it. FD advises not using full synthetic if you are going to use 100LL. The semi-synthetic also suspends the lead where the synthetic will not. I would rather use a semi-synthetic than be concerned about the lead. I realize it is not a particularly big deal in the short run, maybe it is an abundance of caution and just because I love my plane. (Probably the only one I will ever own.)

I do use full synthetic in my vehicles, but then I don't have to worry about lead there.

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I run semi-syn, mostly mogas, and change oil at 50 hours or 4 months, whichever is first.

 

Plugs are cheap so usually change yearly.

 

I'm sure I don't need this frequency but it's cheap, especially since I can do it myself.

 

By the way, I beed a nose gear pin. Anybody have one I can buy? I've been after FD since March with no joy.

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If you live in a climate with winter and summer temperatures, it is often recommended to change oil (in anything) on time (such as quarterly or semi-annually) if that comes before your preferred accumulated time. It's not good for any engine to have used oil sitting in it for a long time. The acid is detrimental. Just as you change your lawn mower oil before storing for the winter, it's a good idea to change your Rotax oil if it is used enought that it has acid in it and will be sitting for more than a few weeks.

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I went to the Rotax tent while at Sebring LSA Expo. There were a couple of factory technicians there. I asked if they were involved with doing teardown inspections and parts analysis at these teardowns. One of the two said he did this. I asked him if he felt there was any difference in wear of the critical rotating engine components comparing 100 hr. and 50 hr. oil changes. He smiled and said "I know what Rotax recommends but if it were my engine, I'd be changing my oil every 50 hours". Our engines hold 3 quarts and I can buy full synthetic Mobile 1 Racing 4T or Amsoil 10-40 for $10/quart. I'm flying about 150 hrs/year so it costs me an extra $60 for 6 quarts of oil and $50 for two filters = $110 if I change at 50 hrs. instead of 100.

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Some is good so more must be better, or often is good so oftener must be better. It doesn't cost too much. It's only money.

 

These forms of rationale may make one feel better, but they don't hold up to rigorous examination. It is essentially impossible to argue with these kinds of assertions. That doesn't mean they are right.

 

I'm willing to bet that if you change your oil in October and March you will never exceed the 100 hour limit and you are likely to not exceed the 50 hour goal. Changing to get rid of acid is more logical to me than changing because of a possibility of a breakdown in lubricity.

 

Oil is one of the subject that is simply fraught with misinformation, unsubstantiated assertions and illogical claims. Look at the U.S. military, which buys oil in bulk. It bids to a milspec. Why don't we simply operate based on what Rotax recommends? No, we have to improve. I vote that we all add Marvel Mystery Oil and STP and while we're at it a good shot of Seafoam.

 

Buying oil is almost as bad as buying seed corn.

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The posted SI was superceeded by R5 dated 8 March 2012.

 

PRW

Thanks Philip,

I went to the Rotax Owners website and did a document search for a newer version and didn't find one, so I posted the one I had saved. I must have messed up the search.

 

I'll go back now and get the latest, as i like to keep this on my iPad.

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