procharger Posted August 27, 2013 Report Posted August 27, 2013 Anyone know who might have door seal in stock?? thanks
Jim Meade Posted August 27, 2013 Report Posted August 27, 2013 I ordered one from FD USA a couple of days ago. They didn't say if it was in stock; I assumed it was. I got the impression it was on a roll and they cut off a chunk.
opticsguy Posted August 27, 2013 Report Posted August 27, 2013 I'll bet you could get something like that from McMaster or Grainger.
procharger Posted August 28, 2013 Author Report Posted August 28, 2013 Ordered 24 feet from FD, cost about $2.50 a foot, its supposed to be the new style seal that they claim seals better we will see??
GlennM Posted August 28, 2013 Report Posted August 28, 2013 Just changed one side last weekend. The new design still tears.
Jim Meade Posted August 28, 2013 Report Posted August 28, 2013 Just changed one side last weekend. The new design still tears. Argh! Don't tell me that! Why didn't I check McMaster Carr first? I found the reference on Vansairforce and it costs $1.57/ft. Part number 1120A411. The discussion also mentions other options some like.
GlennM Posted August 29, 2013 Report Posted August 29, 2013 The door seals and elevator trim tab seals get replaced almost yearly on my plane. They both tear. I think the door seals tear from getting in and out and sliding across the seal. I am tall and can get over the seal, so the passenger side mainly tears. I am trying to figure out the elevator trim tab seals. I have one side doubled up to see if that helps. Oh, and since we are on seals, my Telex 50 headset ear seals need replacing almost as often. My closet looks like an aisle at Sporty's. Clarification: The elevator trim seal tape tears, not the plastic strip. It tears right where the tape covers the edge of the plastic strip.
procharger Posted August 31, 2013 Author Report Posted August 31, 2013 Put the new door seals on today, could not close either door, even pushing on outside of door did not help. Nothing to do but work on the holes until it closes I guess anyone else had this problem??
procharger Posted August 31, 2013 Author Report Posted August 31, 2013 You are right about moving the top hinges that would help I was going to do that but could not get all the screws out so greased the holes after I worked on them it works well now. You can tell the doors are in to far at the top because it touches the seal way before the door closes at the bottom thanks.
Doug G. Posted August 31, 2013 Report Posted August 31, 2013 This is one of the things that is very confusing on this site. My understanding is that you need an LOA to do things like that Roger, unless you are E-LSA. Am I wrong? If so, what do I need an LOA for and what do I not need it for? Or is it simply a personal decision based on the likelihood of being asked by someone about it?
Ed Cesnalis Posted August 31, 2013 Report Posted August 31, 2013 To pick knits, you corrected the screw hole locations so no problem. If the screw holes were originally located in board by design and you altered that then you have a reason to seek an LOA. You have to assume that the locations are meant to be located to achieve a good seal. In your home you drywall should be sealed to the walls plates, in most cases this has not been done and in some locations the gap is enlarged to allow earth quake tie downs ( fasteners ) to be installed. Here we have a bad seal or a big gap by design to accommodate another safety design consideration. If the door's bad fit is a compromise you would want to know what it is.
Doug G. Posted August 31, 2013 Report Posted August 31, 2013 OK, so we can alter fit as long as we don't change function? (and CT construction must be different here, drywall is fastened to the studs... not sure what wall plates are. We also don't do anything in terms of earthquakes.)
Doug G. Posted September 1, 2013 Report Posted September 1, 2013 CTLSi, are you saying that it is ok to replace designated hardware with something different without an FD OK? I asked about an oil quick drain and was told they are not approved by Rotax or FD and if you take your plane to FD service, they will remove it. (At least in Conneticut.) Replacing parts with something different is not legitimate unless you are E-LSA, or with FD approval, or there is no part designated by FD/Rotax. You will put your mechanic in a difficult spot, or you will have to try intimidate them into leaving them there. What are you accessing there as an owner anyway? You just don't get it - you cannot do whatever you want, there are rules and regulations, and they exist for a reason.
WmInce Posted September 1, 2013 Report Posted September 1, 2013 Hey guys! Thanks for all the building tips, but . . . what about the airplane?
Doug G. Posted September 2, 2013 Report Posted September 2, 2013 C'mon you can't get that kind of info just anywhere, and I was trying to understand his analogy.
mocfly Posted November 6, 2013 Report Posted November 6, 2013 Does anyone know how many feet are required per door? Anyone try the McMaster seals?
207WF Posted November 18, 2013 Report Posted November 18, 2013 I suggest not cutting the glider tape with a razor blade after you lay it down. A guy did that on mine at a shop and there is a nice permanent reminder of his work in the paint. I cut the tape with a pair of scissors when I get out to the end of the run and can see how much is needed. WF
Bob737 Posted March 19, 2018 Report Posted March 19, 2018 I need to replace the door seal on my 2006 CTSW. I remember seeing this topic a while back. It appears that I have the two part rubber seal that tears apart with time and wear. Does anyone know of a one piece seal. If so, please provide the supplier and part number. I was given McMaster-Carr 1120A411 by FDUSA but that appears to be the two part seal. Thanks!
Tom Baker Posted March 19, 2018 Report Posted March 19, 2018 The two piece seal I think was a piece of trimloc to which Flight Design glued a seal. I don't think you will find anything better than that from McMaster-Carr. I've replaced several pieces on CTSW's, with the seal from McMaster-Carr, and never had to replace them a second time. For what it's worth my CTLS is 9 years old and still has the original seals, and they are still in good shape at almost 700 hours.
Anticept Posted March 19, 2018 Report Posted March 19, 2018 https://www.mcmaster.com/#1120A411 That one?
WmInce Posted March 20, 2018 Report Posted March 20, 2018 4 hours ago, Bob737 said: I need to replace the door seal on my 2006 CTSW. I remember seeing this topic a while back. It appears that I have the two part rubber seal that tears apart with time and wear. Does anyone know of a one piece seal. If so, please provide the supplier and part number. I was given McMaster-Carr 1120A411 by FDUSA but that appears to be the two part seal. Thanks! Hi Bob, This is what I use on my 2006 CTSW. https://www.amazon.com/Trim-Lok-Rubber-Closed-Sponge-Strength/dp/B073QXTCDB Snug fit and very, very good bond (3M), to your existing channel material. Before applying, remove the plastic channel and thoroughly strip and clean with acetone or lacquer thinner. After channel is back in door frame, then apply weather seal as desired. 25 foot length will do both doors.
ls6pilot Posted August 3, 2018 Report Posted August 3, 2018 I ordered this 1120A411 from Mcmaster Carr. It appears too wide. It is for 1/4 inch wide edge. They have a 1120A211 that is 1/8 inch wide. Seems like that would fit better. Any experience or advice? https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/124/3590/=1dzxc9d Thanks
Bob737 Posted August 4, 2018 Report Posted August 4, 2018 I purchased the door seal material from Mcmaster Carr. Yes, it appeared to be too wide however I crimped it every 1/2 inch all the way around the door and it fit very well. I was afraid the 1/8" would be too tight. I just returned from a 62 flight hour trip and the seal worked fine. It looks nice too.
ls6pilot Posted August 4, 2018 Report Posted August 4, 2018 11 hours ago, Bob737 said: Yes, it appeared to be too wide however I crimped it every 1/2 inch all the way around the door and it fit very well. Thanks Bob. When you crimped it did you crimp it fully from top to bottom or just the bottom 1/2 , 1/3? I measured the width of the door edge and it was about 1/16. I would prefer to use this and not return it for the 1/8th. Thanks again. Anybody else?
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