Rich Posted December 5, 2013 Report Share Posted December 5, 2013 I've been researching pre heaters and have gone to the Reiff webpage. There's one especially for the Rotax 912 which I was going t purchase. They also sell a heat pad for he oil cooler This Rotax heater does not have cylinder head heat strips. I'd appreciate any input on this type of heater. ill it be sufficient? I have called the company but no response. On another matter, I can't type on this forum without re-typing nearly every word, as spaces and letters are left out. It's very frustrating. Any cure for this? Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philip Welsch Posted December 5, 2013 Report Share Posted December 5, 2013 I've used the Reiff for several years (CTLS). Three hours on before flight gets oil to at least 70 and the cylinders (Dynon EMS) to >60. Wool blankets over top cowl and all air intakes plugged. Air temps down to around 29. PRW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S3flyer Posted December 5, 2013 Report Share Posted December 5, 2013 Rich -- you may have already checked it out but you might take a look at Hornet heater (http://www.aircraftheaters.com/#!aircraftheaters/c10my). No install, has a thermostat and could be used as a cockpit heater after takeoff. Looks like it could fit in the S4 cowl fairly easy. I have zero experience with engine preheaters since I'm definitely a southern boy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted December 5, 2013 Report Share Posted December 5, 2013 Hi Rich, I think the typing issue is on your computer. I have no issues and have heard of no one else. It could be a keyboard issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted December 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 Well I just spent .5 hours typing a reply to all. Twice the same basic message. Both disappeared before sending. I'm giving up tonight. Thanks for all your replies as it helped in my decision. Fan unit for the cabin preheat and the Reiff 150W unit for the engine with the oil tank and sump heating elements w/ thermostat. Roger, any harm in keeping it on constantly, other than electric use. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mocfly Posted December 6, 2013 Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 Here is a little something that maintains the engine compartment at 70 degrees. Under 100.00 Next modification will be to keep the interior at the same temp. It's run by an arduino board that I cobbled together. I can call it and find out what temp the engine compartment is, the delivery temp of the air, the air return temp and how long the fan has run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
procharger Posted December 6, 2013 Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 I use 75 watt light, stick it in oil door no problem, inside cowl temp around 70 in unheated hanger better than nothing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted December 6, 2013 Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 Hi Rich, Leaving it on isn't a problem to my knowledge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FredG Posted December 6, 2013 Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 My Reiff works well in an unheated hangar in Iowa. BTW, I recommend that you be sure that the crankcase surface is meticulously clean before applying the epoxy used to glue the heat strip to it. Also, find a way to apply pressure to the strip, creating firm contact with the crankcase, while the epoxy cures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted December 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 Hi Fred, I read the directions online and they say to use duct tape to fasten the strip to the pan until cured. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug G. Posted December 6, 2013 Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 I can affirm what Fred said. I didn't do the original install but I put it back on when it came off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted December 7, 2013 Report Share Posted December 7, 2013 It's an easy area on the bottom of the engine to get oil residue from more than one source. I would clean it with lacquer thinner once, then twice and then a third time. If it is clean the pad should stick and not come off. If you can't get your hand in between the muffler and case then drop the muffler. It is worth doing this install correctly. I clean my wheels rims like this before I apply stick on weights. I don't believe I have had a weight come off yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted December 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2013 Thanks again..........and the typing problem fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted December 7, 2013 Report Share Posted December 7, 2013 What was the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N89WD Posted December 8, 2013 Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 Reiff heater works awesome. I have the "pad" held on the block with JB after prepping with sandpaper. The oil tank heater comes as a band. I leave it plugged in 24/7 during this time of year ( minus 22*F) yesterday in NW Wyoming. It's been in for more than 4yrs. The aircraft is parked in a hangar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted December 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2013 Roger, I restarted the computer, then hit the toggle sw. on the top left of the reply page. Jacques mentioned to try the SW. You once mentioned the toggle sw. when I couldn't use the enter key to space paragraphs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Posted December 17, 2013 Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 I'm using a hair dryer into a drier vent tube going into the oil hatch. Anybody know why I shouldn't do this or is it ok? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted December 18, 2013 Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 Hair dryers really weren't meant to be continuous use only intermittent, like drying hair. Go buy a small cheap room heater from Ace Aviation or Home Dopey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Runtoeat Posted December 18, 2013 Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 Roger, I keep tossing loose change in the cookie jar for a future Reiff heater. Haven't gotten there yet. Here's my version of the hair dryer setup. This, combined with a 100 watt light bulb that stays on 24-7 provides good starts when temps are in the single digits. The heavy quilt I throw over the engine cowl isn't shown. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Posted December 18, 2013 Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 Dick, how long do you let the hair dryer run? I was thinking mine was going to be on for less than an hour before start up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted December 18, 2013 Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 Hi Jerry, An hour won't touch the deep metal areas. It might warm the surface only and unevenly at that. Real pre-heating should get deep internal metal areas and you should strive for best result to get to the crank, pistons, tappets, oil, heads and valves, ect... Surface only per-heat doesn't really do anything. Ideally you would want to heat soak the entire engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Runtoeat Posted December 18, 2013 Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 Hi Jerry. Roger is correct. The hair dryer will only provide a warm environment inside the cowl but does not provide deep heating in an hour's time. It really is best to go with a Tanis or Reiff. However, I keep a 100 watt light bulb on 24-7 and this is positioned between the engine block and the oil reservoir. Using my laser heat scanner, the light bulb appears to keep the engine block well above freezing with a heavy blanket wrapped around my cowl. Of course, this assumes one is in a hangar also. The hair dryer just compliments this. This combination seems to provide good starts in cold weather. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mocfly Posted December 18, 2013 Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 I have been using the heating system I rigged up and for around $100.00 and I believe it's a better solution than TANIS OR REIFF.(Doug Envick is a personal friend), my rig keeps both my interior and the entire engine compartment a controlled 78 degrees. My instruments never see freezing temps or large temperature swings which I believe will help long term. This is the first out of the last 3 winters we are using it and the response has been overwhelming. I even built one for my hanger neighbor who has our old 182. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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