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Trim indicators


Al Downs

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I have to roll the pitch trim in the nose down direction all the way to the stop. If I don't I will be slow on final at 30 degrees with the throttle closed.

 

Mine must be rigged differently. I don't need full trim travel to fly 55K/15 degrees or 50k/30 degrees hands off.

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Full trim "nose up or down" air speed will probably vary somewhat between older CT's. The stablator trim tab (anti-servo) travel can be adjusted by shortening or lengthening the two control rods. After performing the stabilator reinforcement, I had to verify and record that my CT could hold certain airspeeds by the use of trim alone, hands off the stick. In my case, the control rods needed to have their lengths adjusted which, in turn, modified the travel of the trim tab, to meet the airspeeds required by the service manual.

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My pitch trim (CTLS) is extremely tight (the others move very freely). It seems to be tight at the trim wheel (I have checked and lubed all of the connections) almost like there is too much cable wrapped around the wheel and it is bound up on the extra layer of cable. I have struggled with this for over a year (since I got the plane) but have not been able to fix it. Has anyone had this issue and been able to easily fix without tearing into the whole trim system?

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CT-Matt, my friend's 2008 CTLS has a very stiff trim wheel. Attempts have been made to loosen this to no avail. It's so stiff that we set trim to neutral and rarely use it. It will be interesting to see if other CTLS owners chime in here to indicate if their wheels are stiff and if anyone has found a way to correct this.

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My pitch trim (CTLS) is extremely tight (the others move very freely). It seems to be tight at the trim wheel (I have checked and lubed all of the connections) almost like there is too much cable wrapped around the wheel and it is bound up on the extra layer of cable. I have struggled with this for over a year (since I got the plane) but have not been able to fix it. Has anyone had this issue and been able to easily fix without tearing into the whole trim system?

 

The airplane I trained in, 476CT, has a very stiff pitch trim wheel. A full training session of landings could easily give one blisters just from working the trim wheel. Luckily the CT I bought, 509CT, has a much lighter trim wheel. Both of those planes are CTSWs. I think some airplanes just have stiffer trim, not sure if it's the cabling or the hub of the wheel itself being tight. Have you tried to loosen the hub bolt on the trim wheel a hair to see if that helps?

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Dick, yes my friend Tip has a 2008 and if memory serves me, his is ok. I like your friend set it for the most part and forget it. It isn't worth the blisters (yes it is that stiff).

 

Andy, the bolt was the first thing I messed with. Even completely loose it had no effect. I have lubed the connections to no avail. The only thing I can figure is that the cable is too tight with too many wraps on the shaft so it binds on itself (just speculation on my part). Even if that were the case, I am not sure that is any easy fix. Maybe some others have had better luck?

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Each CT no matter SW or LS has an individual personality. Most aileron trims are firm, rudder is the easiest, but pitch trims can vary widely. All of the trims in each plane my differ a little and it isn't usually an issue to worry about. FD tried a few different approaches and there was more than one guy over the years turning the wrench at assembly so each has it's own personality..

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Each CT no matter SW or LS has an individual personality. Most aileron trims are firm, rudder is the easiest, but pitch trims can vary widely. All of the trims in each plane my differ a little and it isn't usually an issue to worry about. FD tried a few different approaches and there was more than one guy over the years turning the wrench at assembly so each has it's own personality..

 

First time I messed with rudder trim, I wondered if it was even connected, it is so easy to turn.

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Rudder is the easiest trim in most of our planes especially the SW because of the setup.

 

Sometimes it feels like there is a dead spot where no attitude change is noticed when I hit that zone. Having never experienced that type of feedback I am curious how to tighten that up and the maintenance manual doesn't do a good enough job with any sort of explanation. At least not in any of the manuals that I have access to.

 

Roger et al:

Is this indicative of the normal setup or should there be resistance in thru full right thru full left? If there should be resistance can you direct me to a publication where it is referenced?

 

Thank you

 

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Chris, for the rudder trim changes are made by increasing and decreasing cable tension on the 2 rudder cables. Near nuetral the changes are very small for each turn on the trim wheel. When you get away from center the percentage of change gets bigger with each turn of the wheel.

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You got that right. I don't get grease or oily paw prints on my customers plane it is usually blood. You can tell how much work I did and where I did it by the amount of blood all over and where it's located. :lol:

Sometimes I could use a transfusion. :lol: :lol: :lol:

I just did a hose change on an Atec 322 Faeta (low wing tee tail). It was easier than a CT, but for some reason I looked like a self sacrifice on my hands and arms when I was done.

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