Tom Baker Posted August 8, 2014 Report Posted August 8, 2014 Actually the tape to use is Bowlus Maxi Tape for sailplanes. It will stretch around the curves (one piece around the upper gear fairings). I like the 1" for the wings and 1.5" for the gear fairings. For removing the tape residue a little Prep Sol or enamel reducer will work OK.
Tom Baker Posted August 8, 2014 Report Posted August 8, 2014 The reason I said Prep Sol or enamel reducer is because some of the adhesive removers are citrus based, and I don't know what it would do to the foam core.
Tom Baker Posted August 8, 2014 Report Posted August 8, 2014 Thanks, the ULINE product was of course recommended by Dave Armando at FD. Too late now, so will be applying that product. The delivery only put on a single band of tape on the wings, and they are fully cracked now. Goof off? Okay. Thanks. Prep-Sol: . Not for sale to or use by the general public There was a CT at Oshkosh and the tape has shrunk and wrinkled. They said it was only a month or two old. Maybe it was the ULINE tape, because I have never seen the Bowlus tape do that. I have never had any problem buying Prep-Sol.
WmInce Posted August 8, 2014 Report Posted August 8, 2014 Actually the tape to use is Bowlus Maxi Tape for sailplanes. It will stretch around the curves (one piece around the upper gear fairings). I like the 1" for the wings and 1.5" for the gear fairings. For removing the tape residue a little Prep Sol or enamel reducer will work OK. Here's another one: Gap Seal Tape (same type of tape that seals wings to fuselage). Ordered from Flight Design: Item code is "S-2230." Gap seal tape 2", color - white. $10/roll. I use it around the gear fairings and a couple of strips to protect the lower fin. (Be careful not to cover up the drain hole).
FlyingMonkey Posted August 8, 2014 Report Posted August 8, 2014 Here is another place to get Bowlus tape http://www.cumulus-soaring.com/bowlus.htm That's where I always get mine...I think I heard that site is affiliated with the guy that formulated the tape for gliders, but that might just be rumor.
CT4ME Posted September 2, 2014 Report Posted September 2, 2014 Bowlus tape people recommend Lighter Fluid to remove the sticky residue. 'takes a little elbow grease but seems to work ok
Jim Meade Posted September 2, 2014 Report Posted September 2, 2014 The guy who runs Cumulus Soaring is asking for financial help and if he doesn't get it his site may not be up much longer, so if you find another source you might want to keep it in mind. Wingsandwheels is another glider supply site which may offer it, I don't know.
Anticept Posted September 3, 2014 Report Posted September 3, 2014 Just use acetone on a cloth and rub the residue off. Acetone gets it off very easily, and also the rohacell and airex cores are resistant to it. Acetone is also used as an epoxy and paint thinner, which sounds bad, but what it means it is chemically compatible. For acetone to soften epoxy or paint, it would have to sit for a long time in a bath. EDIT: so i decided to test the acetone a bit more with a dark cloth instead of my usual light ones, and really rubbing it in. I can see a *very* faint amount of paint on the cloth, and therefore recommend acetone *sparingly*. It has also left some very fine streaking on the surface.
WmInce Posted September 3, 2014 Report Posted September 3, 2014 Just use acetone on a cloth and rub the residue off. Acetone gets it off very easily, and also the rohacell and airex cores are resistant to it. Acetone is also used as an epoxy and paint thinner, which sounds bad, but what it means it is chemically compatible. For acetone to soften epoxy or paint, it would have to sit for a long time in a bath. Thank you, thank you.
Tom Baker Posted September 3, 2014 Report Posted September 3, 2014 I ordered some Bowles tape the other day and h told me to use lighter fluid. The reason they recomend lighter fluid is because it won't hurt anything else. He was worried about damage to the windows, or other parts.
Anticept Posted September 3, 2014 Report Posted September 3, 2014 Acetone will soften the acrylic windows momentarily (side windows) but it will make the front and top windows brittle and slowly dissolve them (polycarbonate) until you let it sit out for a while so the acetone evaporates. It will reverse the brittleness, but the dissolved material is gone forever. Manufacturers fuse together acrylic windows with acetone on big planes with the electrical window heat element infused in it. They give them a bath and press the two halves together around the element. Just as a quick sidenote for anyone who might read this post and have an old style aircraft: You don't want to get acetone anywhere near your windows if they are cellulose acetate, it will cause them to turn milky.
Anticept Posted September 4, 2014 Report Posted September 4, 2014 Thank you, thank you.See my edit: EDIT: so i decided to test the acetone a bit more with a dark cloth instead of my usual light ones, and really rubbing it in. I can see a *very* faint amount of paint on the cloth, and therefore recommend acetone *sparingly*. It has also left some very fine streaking on the surface.
CT4ME Posted September 8, 2014 Report Posted September 8, 2014 Here's a vote for Goof-Off. I tried numerous things, including the lighter fluid as suggested by the Bowlus guy. I was at Roger's the other day and he showed me Goof-Off in action. In 30 seconds he cleaned about 5 feet, next to a 12" spot that took me two hours to clean. In that 12", I had tried lighter fluid, GooGone, some citrus cleaner, oil eater, simple green, ICE detailer, and some Novus cleaner/wax. I bought some Goof-Off at HomeDepot (paint dept) for $2.79 (4.5 oz lighter fluid-sized can). I finished cleaning the bottom of my stabilator in minutes. Upon reflection, I should have bought the 20 oz can for $5-something. Use sparingly and rinse well afterward.
Anticept Posted September 8, 2014 Report Posted September 8, 2014 Guess what the main ingredient of many goof-off prducts is? Acetone!
CT4ME Posted September 8, 2014 Report Posted September 8, 2014 'figured it was some sort of solvent mixture. It's clear and thin, and evaps quickly. I used your trick (dark rag) and didn't see any while paint come off. (according to the MSDS sheet, water fleas and flathead minnows will die if you try to make a jar of Goof-Off their home) PS... there are several Goof-Off products... I think the one we want to use is "Professional Remover". They also have "heavy duty" and "Graffiti Remover", "rust remover" and 3-4 more.
Anticept Posted September 9, 2014 Report Posted September 9, 2014 Heavy duty and rust remover use different chemical compositions. Heavy duty uses a lot of alcohol bases, whereas rust remover uses some seriously corrosive stuff. Yours (professional) is using acetone. http://www.goofoffproducts.com/msds-cpsia
Anticept Posted September 9, 2014 Report Posted September 9, 2014 Nearly every solvent is carcinogenic. In fact, humans are highly prone to cancer even naturally (everyone has cancer at some point in their lives), but our immune system almost always recognizes and destroys the tumors before they have a chance to grow. It's a small subset of cancer cells that are able to dodge the immuno response. That's one of the things that make phages an interesting field of study. There is evidence that phages can be deployed to alter the markers of cancer cells, triggering the immune response, but the hard part is making sure they only trigger the response on cancer.
Anticept Posted September 9, 2014 Report Posted September 9, 2014 Great. You use the acetone and the toluene and I'll go with the non carcinogenic substances. See you on the other end of life.... Gloves.
Ian Posted September 9, 2014 Report Posted September 9, 2014 Since when has Acetone been carcinogenic? http://toxnet.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/sis/search/a?dbs+hsdb:@term+@DOCNO+41 Quote: "Acetone has been used extensively as a solvent vehicle in skin carcinogenicity studies and is not considered carcinogenic when applied to the skin" The evidence for Toluene is a little less clear, but from the same source: "Toluene and xylene. While no direct human evidence is available, there is recent evidence of carcinogenicity of toluene and xylene at high concentrations in experimental animals" so I'd probably steer clear of washing my hands in it! But Acetone - it's nail polish remover and is still available over the counter!
FlyingMonkey Posted September 9, 2014 Report Posted September 9, 2014 Neither of those substances is going to be carcinogenic in the amounts used to clean tape residue off a CT. It would be like expecting to get cancer from drinking one Tab cola with saccharine. BTW, Gasoline is a KNOWN carcinogen both for skin contact and inhalation. 100Hamburger, who pumps your gas?
FastEddieB Posted September 9, 2014 Report Posted September 9, 2014 The way I've handled caustic chemicals my entire adult life, I'm amazed I'm still here!
Ed Cesnalis Posted September 9, 2014 Report Posted September 9, 2014 40 years ago I ran a 4 color printing press. We used the solvents to wash the ink off of our hands, arms and bodies. The ink would go right through your clothes. Recently I started installing spray polyurethane foam, these chemicals are really scary but at least we know it.
FlyingMonkey Posted September 9, 2014 Report Posted September 9, 2014 40 years ago I ran a 4 color printing press. We used the solvents to wash the ink off of our hands, arms and bodies. The ink would go right through your clothes. Recently I started installing spray polyurethane foam, these chemicals are really scary but at least we know it. Yeah, polyurethane really is scary stuff. I hope you use a fresh air rig when spraying!
Anticept Posted September 9, 2014 Report Posted September 9, 2014 Or just use acetone, since it's basically the same stuff!
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