johnr Posted August 17, 2014 Report Share Posted August 17, 2014 Hi All. doing my pre flight I found that the flaps were not operating. Returned to hangar & after many checks have found that one of the relays on the board attached to the inside of the firewall is causing the problem. If I tap it or wriggle it the flaps will operate. Before I try to find someone with 5 foot long arms to reach in there I would like to know if the relays are replaceable ie plug in type . If they are plug in I may just be able to reach & replace them. It they are soldered on to the board it presents a much more involved repair. It would seem that the whole black cover will need to be removed to enable access. Has anyone replaced the relays & how did they tackle it. John, Perth australia. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anticept Posted August 17, 2014 Report Share Posted August 17, 2014 Take a photo of the tops of the relays. They might have part numbers that you can search for to see of they are soldered or drop in. It will probably be soldered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnr Posted August 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 Thanks fo the advice , seems such a complicated & expensive sytem to repair. They didnt make it easy when they fitted the relay board to the firewall. Johnr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyingMonkey Posted August 18, 2014 Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 Thanks fo the advice , seems such a complicated & expensive sytem to repair. They didnt make it easy when they fitted the relay board to the firewall. Johnr Ease of access seems a bit low on the FD list of priorities...the factory CTSW fuel filter could not be in a worse place. :huh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted August 18, 2014 Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 I just installed another of these ground wire setups in another CT with headset noise and a flap issue. The noise is gone now and the flaps work well. I'm not convinced the new ground wire was the magic bullet for the flaps because I did a couple of things to that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnr Posted August 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 Hi Roger, I will check the grounds before I do anything else. what else did you do ? regards Johnr Perth WA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted August 18, 2014 Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 Hi John, Nice to hear from you again. If you are having a flap issue it can be a couple of things. Lubing the two flap rods in the baggage compartment should always be done at the 100hr/annual inspections. If it isn't it can become dry and drag. This could eventually burn out the motor. If the flap board seems to be acting up sometimes resetting the potentiometer at the circuit board can help with it's memory. This requires the two switches that came with the plane. The wires just behind the circuit board should all be pushed and above all twisted to make sure the bullet electrical connections are solid. I have seen this as a problem a couple of times and is easy to address. Unfortunately the board can just go bad at times. Once in a while the potentiometer (small blue colored round object with 3 wires) in the baggage compartment up by the micro switch next to the 1/4" aluminum flap rod can go bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyRatz Posted August 19, 2014 Report Share Posted August 19, 2014 Hi Friends, I already had 2 issues with the flap power board. In both cases at least one relay has been defective and I replaced the two relay with success. If you want to repair the board, you need to clean the contact side from insulation lacquer before soldering (diluent for cell lacquer works well). The parts you need are easy to get. Google for 832A-1C-C. In Germany one can find it here: http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/504206/ Be sure to apply insulation lacquer at the downside of the board after soldering and before remounting it. Greetings from Germany Markus Edit: Changed the Link to the 1C-Type of (32A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Runtoeat Posted August 20, 2014 Report Share Posted August 20, 2014 Markus, thanks for posting the info on the flap controller relays. I know of one CT that had the circuit board replaced due to an inoperative relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WmInce Posted August 20, 2014 Report Share Posted August 20, 2014 Hi Friends, I already had 2 issues with the flap power board. In both cases at least one relay has been defective and I replaced the two relay with success. If you want to repair the board, you need to clean the contact side from insulation lacquer before soldering (diluent for cell lacquer works well). The parts you need are easy to get. Google for 832A-1C-C. In Germany one can find it here: http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/504232/ Be sure to apply insulation lacquer at the downside of the board after soldering and before remounting it. Greetings from Germany Markus Markus, Thanks for helping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chanik Posted August 21, 2014 Report Share Posted August 21, 2014 The -1A in the link is SPST but you referenced the -1C which is SPDT. Be careful to make sure you get the correct one. They are just ~$1.50 at Mouser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacques Posted August 21, 2014 Report Share Posted August 21, 2014 here is what it is about for those who wonder. the card gives you an idea of the size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnr Posted August 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2014 Gday, I have been seperated from my email for 2 days & just read the replies. Thanks to all those that have taken the time to reply. Interesting to hear that others have had relay problems. I will remove the board & have both relays replaced at the same time. I always understood that relays were components that had a long life. They survive in cars & motorcycles & seem to last the life of the machine. Maybe Flight Design should beef them up & if they have a limited life, fit a plug in type & have us replace them at 5years. That would be preferable to replacing a $250 board that would stop me flying for 3 or 4 weeks if I had to order a replacement from the factory. We dont have dealers in Australia with good inventory of spares. Johnr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyRatz Posted August 21, 2014 Report Share Posted August 21, 2014 Kurt, thank you for the hint with the wrong link. I edited my post an changed the link to the proper item. Happy soldering Markus P.S.: For the insulation of the contact side, I use Scotch 1602 vernis isolant rouge 81043 which is not as opaque as the original but works well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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