kentuckynet Posted September 21, 2010 Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 Hello just got back from my longest flight yet....warming up for PAGE! I have always known this plane has issues with getting warm during climbout. Im always able to keep it under control but its a pain the the A_ _! Just a normal climbout out to say 3000' at summer temps, you will have to lower the nose and let it climb at 90 knots or reduce the throttle. The second complaint i have, it has always had as well, the oil temp fluctuates from 200 to 250, you can usually tell about what its average is because the really hign numbers come in when its ranging 205 215 then 248 then 202 and so on. This was the first time i had the alarms go off from high temps. One other thing to note, i have been flying this plane for amost 18 months, i finally got the nerve to turn on the auto pilot........... WOW How can you fly without it....this is like cruise control for your car but better, its like having AC in your backhoe....its awesome!!! This morning at 6AM when i left merrit island florida the egt' had too wide of a spread and that alarm went off as well, they were nealry 175 degrees different until both reached 1480 then all was fine. No other issues with this any where along the trip ???? Any help to fix my 2 complaints before the page trip would be helpful.... Thanks Mack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted September 21, 2010 Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 Mack, Two words: Poor grounds The oil pressure swinging all over is a poor ground. Tighten all 5-6 of them up. They may be finger tight, but wrench loose. They are not tight until you put a wrench on them! This may also be causing the EGT and any other instrument issue. Do the grounds before you even bother to touch anything else. 95% of the time this is the problem with any instrument issue especially a very sensitive oil pressure sender. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kentuckynet Posted September 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2010 Roger, Exactly where are all 5-6 grounds? Im sure i have been there and had them off ...are they all at obe spot? mack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted September 22, 2010 Report Share Posted September 22, 2010 Hi Mack, They are all on the battery side. One on the frame, one on the starter solenoid, one under the reg/rec., the battery negative, then up higher in the same area is 1or 2 that go through the firewall into the instrument panel. Pull out the right side panel and look all the way back against the firewall. you'll see a bundle of white wires. You may have one screw or two, but loosen the top nut, put a wrench on the back nut and an allen wrench on the other side of the fire wall to keep it from turning and tighten these tight.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Runtoeat Posted September 24, 2010 Report Share Posted September 24, 2010 Mack, the arguement rages on about putting anti-corrosion on switches and connections. I'm with the "putting on" side and am now using a light coating of anti-corrosion on all fittings and connections. You might consider doing this as you go around and inspecting your ground connections. There is much written on this. Not sure if this has been discussed here but on the "other" forum, there are topics dealing with this. Just talked to my friend who is currently taking part in Brian and Karen Carpenter's (Rainbow Aviation) 3 week Light Sport Repair-Maintenance training at Oshkosh. He said that there was a discussion on this and most Left Coast flyers give a heavy spray of WD40 to all their equipment at the end of flight. A new product that reportedly is being used directly on sensitive electrical equipment is ACF-50 made by Lear Chemical in Mississauga, Ontario. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kentuckynet Posted September 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2010 thanks ill keep this in mind as i search for the grounds.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted September 25, 2010 Report Share Posted September 25, 2010 I wouldn't use WD-40 on my plane connections. It is mainly a penetrating fluid meant to help lubricate and displace moisture. Put in the wrong place the penetrating side of it will cause problems and wick places you may not want it to go or loosen things you don't want lose. It is not advertised as a non conductor. I would stick with either T-9 or Corrosion-X or a die electric grease.WD-40 isn't the greatest on rubber parts either. I can cause break down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Runtoeat Posted September 25, 2010 Report Share Posted September 25, 2010 Roger, I understand about the WD40. Personally, I use dielectric grease. I'll check out the T-9 and Corrosion-X. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kentuckynet Posted October 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 Roger I tightened them all, flew this evening and it seemed like it only varied maybe 10 degrees as it fluctuated around as it does...it didnt have the 20 to 40 degree numbers in there so maybe it helped. Since my annual (2 weeks ago) the engine runs rough as theres a noticeable tingle in my toes! I had him show me with his gages before i left that it was correct and they showed perfect as i watched while i ran up the plane. He did some type of 200 hr inspection on the carbs.... It may smooth out some at higher rpms like 4800-5500 but still seems s little rough. He changed mt spark plugs ...i did check to see if they were connected good....i have not removed them though..... I was always very happy how smooth this engin ran compared to my remos....................... Any ideas before i start my flight to page? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted October 4, 2010 Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 How to apply: Die electric grease should be used as a moisture block not an electrical conduction enhancer. Dielectric grease is a nonconductive grease. Because it is nonconductive it does not enhance the flow electrical current. Electrical conductors should not be coated with dielectric grease prior to being mated. However, dielectric grease is often applied to electrical connectors, particularly ones which contain rubber gaskets, as a way to provide a nonconductive lubricant and sealer for the rubber portions of the connector. The widest use of dielectric grease is in high-voltage connections associated with spark plugs. The grease is applied to the rubber boot of the plug wire. This helps the rubber boot slide onto the ceramic insulator of the plug. The grease also acts to seal the rubber boot, while at the same time preventing the rubber from becoming stuck to the ceramic. Generally spark plugs are in located in areas of high temperature, and the grease is formulated to withstand the temperature range expected. Another common use of dielectric grease is on the rubber mating surfaces or gaskets of multi-pin electrical connectors used in automotive and marine engines. The grease again acts as a lubricant and a sealant on the non conductive mating surfaces of the connector. It is not recommended to be applied to the actual electrical conductive contacts of the connector. The grease to to help keep the moisture out and not let it into sensitive areas. The electrical contacts have to be clean and that is where most people get into a bind. The moisture in the air causes the corrosion. At that point all the grounds and or affected connections should come apart and be cleaned. After the connections are re-joined then the grease is applied more to the outside of the connection joints to prevent re-introduction of moisture. If you apply the grease on the connections themselves that will actually reduce the current flow of electricity. The Corrosion-X can be applied directly to directly any electric connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted October 4, 2010 Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 I take it it didn't vibrate like this before the inspection? Since the plugs were worked on and the carbs that is where I would look first before other things. I would check my plug tightness and make sure the boots are on correctly. I would then hook up the carb gauges again and take another look. It may not be as you suspect.. I would rule these two items out before I did anything else. The number one cause for plane problems are mechanics. No one is perfect and anyone can make a mistake. Sure sounds like carbs or bad electrical connetion on the ignition side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tip Posted October 4, 2010 Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 A problem that I have had is the balance tube accidentally gets bumped off on the left carb during maintenance. This will give a vibration in the 3500-4500 range. Check at the carb and at the airbox. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Runtoeat Posted October 4, 2010 Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 Agree with Tip regarding the balance tube running thru the airbox. This has small holes and these are located in the section of the tube running inside the airbox. If this tube has gotten pulled out of the box during the inspection, some of these small holes could be exposed outside of the box. Run your fingers along the tube on each side of the air box. Feel all around the tube for the holes. If you feel the holes, push the tube into the air box just enough so that the small holes are now inside the box. Cinch a tie-wrap around the tube on each side of the airbox to keep it from moving. The other issue I've had which also caused vibration was poor torque of the six engine mount bolts which attach the mount to the firewall. Check the torque on the nuts that are on the firewall inside the cabin. Low torque will cause engine vibration. Actually, check the torque on all engine mount hardware. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted October 4, 2010 Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 Good pick up guys on the balance / vent tube that runs through the airbox. I spaced that one out. They are right. Make sure none of the holes (if you have the white tubing) are outside the airbox on either side. This will absolutely cause a rough running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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