dick747 Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 Selling my 2008 CTLS with 370 hours TT. Located in Marana, AZ. Contact - Dick Johnson, 520 572-9571 2008 CTLS - $95,000 370 hours TT 2000 hour TBO Dynon 100 EFIS Dynon 120 EMS Dynon HS-34 PM 3000 Intercom Garmin 496 GPS with terrain, XM weather, TIS traffic display Garmin SL30 Nav/com radio Garmin GTX 330 transponder with TIS traffic displayed on the GPS TruTrak 2 axis Vizion autopilot with auto level and altitude select Backup analog airspeed and altitude Hobbs hour meter Neuform 3 blade prop BRS parachute Bruce cover Matco wheels and brakes upgrade Passenger side foot rest SPOT position reporting system Hose replacement 10/2013 BRS parachute repack 10/2014 100 hour Rotax inspection and airplane annual due at 386 hours. Will be completed by June 1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbigs Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 Nice plane and a fair price. Someone should jump on it quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sully209 Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 Would love to see some pictures of that IPad mount setup....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dick747 Posted May 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 Will take some photos of the iPad mount the next time I go to the hanger. This is the third location I have used and it is by far the best. Tried suction mount off of the door window and a goose neck up off of the floor. This mount off of the side of the "mushroom" is perfect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anticept Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 Wow another one with a navcom. I was feeling lonely out there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dick747 Posted May 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 Don't use it often but occasionly check my position with a VOR and like to fly ILS approaches in case I ever end up in the fog and can't see the airport. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbigs Posted May 21, 2015 Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 Don't use it often but occasionly check my position with a VOR and like to fly ILS approaches in case I ever end up in the fog and can't see the airport. Don't admit to that in an open forum...not flying an LSA anyway. I can see using a navcom in an FD to train more cheaply. I wish I had ordered one when I bought my plane but at that time I didn't know what navcom was... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhanson Posted May 21, 2015 Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 I like the wrap/covers; I would need wings covers also. Does the nav/com provide GS anywhere ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anticept Posted May 21, 2015 Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 In this type of installation with the D series avionics, the GPS and Nav part of the NavCom are output to the HS34 (small 3 knob at the bottom of the radio stack). This in turn communicates the information to the EFIS. There are screens in the efis that you cycle through, one includes an HSI, which displays navigation information side by side with the AI (which one of the pictures shows). You can also turn on the localizer/VOR guideance and the glideslope as an overlay on the main AI display. For those that can't bring that up (many planes didn't ship with that capability configured): you configure it in the settings. The HS34 brings a lot of value to the avionics stack that has been severely underplayed in the D series avionics. When not dealing with navigation, the HS34 also acts as knobs for the EFIS, controlling heading bugs, altimeter, and even altitude warnings. Normally you have to tab through them with the 6 buttons on the bottom of the display. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tip Posted May 21, 2015 Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 I was looking for a plane like this a month ago for a friend. Three weeks ago, he bought a GlaStar..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dick747 Posted May 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 A couple of photos of the iPad mount as requested by Sully209 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sully209 Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 Thanks for the pictures Dick Nice looking install Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WmInce Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 A couple of photos of the iPad mount as requested by Sully209 Thanks for posting those pictures, Dick. One question, which size arm are you using in the photo? I already have a mounting ball, but I need the arm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dick747 Posted May 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 I think it is a 4 inch arm but I will check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dick747 Posted May 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2015 The overall length of the arm is 6 inches. The 2008 CTLS has been sold. I am going to miss it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyingMonkey Posted May 28, 2015 Report Share Posted May 28, 2015 Bill, you want the 6" arm. You can use the shorter ones, but it will not clear the edge of the mushroom and you'll have to angle it out toward the window, which makes for an awkward fit and non-ideal viewing angle to the screen. Here's mine: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Posted May 28, 2015 Report Share Posted May 28, 2015 Andy and Dick. Did you put a backing inside the mushroom wall for support? If so, what? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyingMonkey Posted May 28, 2015 Report Share Posted May 28, 2015 Andy and Dick. Did you put a backing inside the mushroom wall for support? If so, what? Thanks I used a strip of 0.060" aluminum on the backside. It's pretty solid, no cracks or deformation in the panel in over a year and a half. It has a little give to it if you bump it with your knee getting in or out, just because of the material flex of the mushroom. But it does not appear to shake in flight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WmInce Posted May 29, 2015 Report Share Posted May 29, 2015 Thanks Dick and Andy. I will order the 6 inch arm. I plan on using an aluminum sheet as a backing plate, cut to mirror the RAM ball-mount, which will attached to the arm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dick747 Posted May 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2015 I put some fender washers on the back side. Never had any issues with the iPad vibrating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WmInce Posted May 29, 2015 Report Share Posted May 29, 2015 I put some fender washers on the back side. Never had any issues with the iPad vibrating. Also, a very good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WmInce Posted May 29, 2015 Report Share Posted May 29, 2015 You could always sandwich the mushroom side between two square pieces of aluminum with 4 bolts, one in each corner to distribute the load. Thanks Sporty, but don't think that is needed. Same can be accomplished with the plate inside, bolted (2 bolts) to the RAM ball mount outside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyingMonkey Posted May 29, 2015 Report Share Posted May 29, 2015 Two holes and a small backing plate seem to work fine. In any case, the worst that will happen is a small crack might form in the mushroom material if it gets too much flex. If that happened, I'd stop-drill the crack, and put larger four-bold plates on both the front and back (inside the 'shroom). Problem solved and you are back to the "four bolt" solution. EDIT: As I said, mine has held up perfectly as pictured and described for over a hundred flight hours and a year and a half of calendar time. A really hard landing/crash or truly epic turbulence might shake it loose, I hope never to find out! There is something to be said for making the minimum modifications (and drilling the fewest holes) required to adequately accomplish the task. Under-engineering is a Bad Thing™, but IMO over-engineering is Another Bad Thing™ as well. I think Dick and I have done here works well for the task. I will be the first one on here to say "oops I was wrong, better make it stronger" if I see evidence it's needed. I *have* thought about putting a larger backing plate in (same two screws, but just a little larger to distribute weight better). I first thought about it about six months ago, but every time it occurs to me I end up saying "meh, it's fine for now, maybe later". So far that degree of re-engineering has worked well for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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