Exhaust Springs

[Doug G.]

Has anyone found a reasonably easy way of pulling (and putting back) the exhaust springs. My 200# plus frame has a tough time getting enough pressure on them with a standard T handled spring puller.

Thanks

[FastEddieB]

I hook a chain over the loop and use a large screwdriver through a link and pull on that.

[Anticept]

http://www.harborfreight.com/pick-and-hook-set-7-pc-69592.html

 

Big hook for exhaust springs, little hook for carb springs (actually, I put the springs on THEN put the throttle and choke arms on, and vis versa. much easier)

 

The other picks are useful for checking paint cracking by lightly digging in and seeing if it's just surface marks or something more serious. If it's just surface stuff, then just use nail polish to fill it back over.

[Jacques]

I use a steel cable ~ 2' ,a small hook for the spring at one end and a T handle..

the flex cable permit better acces

[Doug G.]

There must be some difference in these springs. There is no way I could use your method Anticept.

The chain or cable methods are worth a try, though.

Thanks.

[Roger Lee]

I use a 12" pair of needlenose pliers. I cut some small groves on the inside of both jaws to ensure a good grip on anything. I put the pliers in sideways on the spring so the handle is sticking straight out and then just use a little weight to push downward to either remove or install them. I have had several friends try this and most all did it without any issues. You are using more weight than muscle.

 I think the hooks may work well if you could get a straight pull on all the springs. I use a small set of needlenose pliers for the carb springs.

[Anticept]

The hooks are pretty long, so you can get a good angle on them for pushing down.

[BravoFoxtrot]

Here is a youtube on removing/replacing snowmobile exhaust springs:

 

 

Should work about the same on the CT.

[Roger Lee]

Hooks and cables aren't a bad idea. It's just getting into the CT springs or other LSA and getting the right angle to pull.

[Doug Hereford]

A method I have used numerous times to install and remove springs is to take a tongue depressor and cut or break it into a bunch of pieces. Start at either end of the spring, and slip the pieces between each of the coils. This effectively lengthens the spring, usually to the point that it can be easily removed or installed. This also does not mar the spring as some tools can do.

Does not work for compression springs though.

 

Doug Hereford

[Anticept]

Clever with the tongue depressor pieces.

 

For compression springs, you can use a spring compressor, or for redneck engineering, use twine, zip ties, or ratchet straps

[FastEddieB]

That video is pretty much how I do it, but with chain and s-hooks.

 

Whatever works.

 

But my springs are a lot more robust than those in the video, or that fellow is a LOT stronger than me!

[Doug G.]

I used loop of safety wire and a large screwdriver. I got that tip from Kent Johnson in Stanton, MN.

[FlyingMonkey]

I usually just put a long screwdriver through the hook and pull it until it makes it over the exhaust attach point.  Takes some muscle, but not a crazy amount.

[Doug G.]

I think Roger has told me that there have been two springs used. One much stronger than the other. Mine are real bears to remove. I also have them in places where a long screwdriver, by itself, would not fit. Thus the safety wire.

[Anticept]

Sounds like they welded the attach points a little too high on the pipe.

[Roger Lee]

I'm telling you a 12" pair of needlenose pliers works great. I'll try and remember to take a picture of mine tomorrow with the notches I cut in the jaws so no matter what I gripped nothing would slip. With these you can use your weight and no spring is up for that.

[rookie]

Roger,

 

Would that include me!

 

al

[Roger Lee]

Hi Al,

 

May be two of you. 

 

 

It's been a while. Hope the family is well.

[Jim]

Has anyone tried the spring install/remove tools used on the old automotive drum brakes?  Seems like that might work well.

[Doug G.]

If you mean the t-hook, yes. It would probably work if you added a bigger handle for leverage.

[Roger Lee]

I couldn't get them in there. They were too big, not enough room or wrong angle. My 12" needlenose pliers work well.

[Doug G.]

Still waiting for the picture, Roger.????

[Roger Lee]

Here are pictures of my 12" needlenose pliers with the grooves cut in the jaws with my trusty Dremel tool cut-off blade. The grooves keep these from slipping. I use them for grabbing fire sleeve and or hose and exhaust springs. Grab the springs on the bottom so the needle nose stick out to the side of the engine and parallel to the floor. Now just squeeze them and lean on them with a little weight and the spring is either off or back on. If you have something you can grab straight on then that works too. These have been indispensable for hose changes.

[Doug G.]

Yes, thanks. Next time I'll give that a try.