procharger Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 Been having severe problems getting my bird to cold start, tried some suggestions from Roger and played around with choke setting, nothing really made any difference until today, I set the choke so it only closes half way when choke lever is all the way choked and barely cracked throttle and it started first turn if key. First time this winter it started quickly. It always acted like it was to much choke when I tried to start it. Anyway hope that fixes my problems will try again Friday. I have a HKS engine with Bing 64 and it is set up to only close half way when starting and it always starts quickly, so I figured I try it on CT and see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug G. Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 Been having severe problems getting my bird to cold start, tried some suggestions from Roger and played around with choke setting, nothing really made any difference until today, I set the choke so it only closes half way when choke lever is all the way choked and barely cracked throttle and it started first turn if key. First time this winter it started quickly. It always acted like it was to much choke when I tried to start it. Anyway hope that fixes my problems will try again Friday. I have a HKS engine with Bing 64 and it is set up to only close half way when starting and it always starts quickly, so I figured I try it on CT and see what happens. What kind of OAT are you talking about, and pre heat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Cesnalis Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 isn't the Bing64 'choke' either on or off and not something you can do partial? I know it isn't a choke but an enricher and when its selected the carb's idle ciruit loses contol and the enriched circuit takes over. Can you be in the middle where the 2 circuits share mixture control? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FastEddieB Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 isn't the Bing64 'choke' either on or off and not something you can do partial? I know it isn't a choke but an enricher and when its selected the carb's idle ciruit loses contol and the enriched circuit takes over. Can you be in the middle where the 2 circuits share mixture control? That was my experience from decades using BING carbs on BMW airheads. The game plan there was always full "choke" and closed throttle, with any throttle defeating the starting circuit, at least partially. But partial "choke" is possible - the enrichener has a tapering orifice. I have a picture somewhere*. But back to real life - whatever works! *Found online: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
procharger Posted January 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 Temps around here vary 20 to 40 this time of year I use light bulb which keeps under hood temps around 50 to 55 really didn't make any difference what temp was still took 6 or 8 tries to start, again my HKS engine has been this way for 8 years half choke and starts perfect who knows what might work I have tried everything else except going through carbs which were done back in AUG. by my AP. CT would not run when it was set to fully close just acted to rich when started, so i tried something different, time will tell. Maybe float level has something to do with it I don't know?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Baker Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 For my CTLS I use full choke on the first start of the day anytime of the year. My old CTSW that I had before the CTLS was the same way. I do preheat, at least I do now anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
procharger Posted January 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 Tried again today started right up go figure? I am able to keep choke on after start runs smooth now. Would not run before with full closed choke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anticept Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 I have a great deal of trouble starting when it is below freezing. Below 20F, not possible without preheat. Roger did mention to me that I should reduce the plug gaps to bare minimum to help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacques Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 http://legacy.rotaxowner.com/si_tb_info/serviceinfo/si031998_r1.pdf yes reducing plug gap will help as stated in the maintenance manual and having a bigger 'start jet' ....see attached Service info but Pre heat is THE thing to do... you don't want to damage that sprag clutch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyingMonkey Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 I have a great deal of trouble starting when it is below freezing. Below 20F, not possible without preheat. Roger did mention to me that I should reduce the plug gaps to bare minimum to help. I have heard (maybe from Roger) that starts below 30°F or so without some form of preheating are not good for the Rotax engines. Not going to grenade the engine, but increases wear and tear a good bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anticept Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 I have a preheater. I don't always have access to an outlet to plug it in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Cesnalis Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 I had hundreds of cold starts, then I bought a new sprauge clutch Now I have a Tanis and starts are soft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
procharger Posted January 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 Wow that's a lot of work just to get the dam engine to start, I may go electric I said it before this engine has been out long enough, should not have all these issues?? And I still have oil leak around push rod tubes between head and cyl will address that next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anticept Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 Lycoming and continentals can't be started easily in cold weather either unless they are injected, and even then that's really bad on the main bearings. It's a carb thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S4Flier Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 As a comparison, I live in the Dallas area so rarely have any real cold weather. My plane is in an insulated hangar and starts easily in temps from the mid-30s on up without a preheater. Haven't had to try when colder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted January 30, 2016 Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 Too many hard cold starts will eventually cause you to replace the sprag clutch ion the starter assembly. Ed will tell you not to go there. If you live in cold country then buying an engine pre-heater will be cheaper then replacing sprag clutches and batteries. Pay now or pay a lot more later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly Boss Posted January 30, 2016 Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 Do any of you have a pre-heater suggestion? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Runtoeat Posted January 30, 2016 Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 I put a small dab of paint at "2/3" choke setting @ my choke lever. Light bulb + good battery + 2/3 choke starts my engine consistently @ 30 F and above. For less than 30 F, full choke is used. Solid starts with no kick backs. I have always thought my engine was over choked and acted like it was getting too much fuel. Appears Procharger might be in the same boat. Based on Jacques link which describes larger "start" jets, I might have a larger starter jet than stock? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
procharger Posted January 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 Fly Boss guess you got your plane, call me sometime we will meet some where I am in Suffolk Va. 757- 642- 4530 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacques Posted January 30, 2016 Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 Do any of you have a pre-heater suggestion? the ultimate... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7F-S-hLf80 also http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/FBpreheatReiff.php?clickkey=6046 or some 'home made' as many have here I used a heatgun with very good result starting preheating at 5°C [ 40°F ] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted January 30, 2016 Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 Tanis is the gold standard for engine heaters and the specific model for Rotax was designed just for the Rotax engine. It does a really good job of warming the entire engine block through out. Reiff works, but was set up for a wet sump engine and just used on a Rotax. Either one is far and ahead of nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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