Anticept Posted October 21, 2016 Report Posted October 21, 2016 Latest news:Major changes to manuals coming. Torques will no longer be in the IPC, instead it will be kept in MM consistent with the rest of aviation. Everything will be english.NGK has discontinued supplying aviation, blaming customers going to auto parts stores instead of ordering from aviation suppliers. They say they were taking the liability without the premium. The replacement plug is similar to a massive electrode aviation plug. Price unknown. This will replace the plug boots as well. Recommended life limit remains unchanged.Rotax's 6 cylinder V configuration experiment has been shelved. They had a working prototype but suppliers backed out due to liability.A new float is released. It has 3 dots. Some floats continue to sink or flake, but is extremely rare with 2 dot and 0 dot floats.For those who might want to do your own overhauls: overhaul kits are now, or will soon be, available. You're buying a factory made bottom (preassembled case and internals) and you do the inspection and dimentioning of everything that attaches to the bottom, such as pistons, cylinders, gearbox, housing, etc. Data plates are stamped, and the old core is returned for credit. It's still really expensive to do this, so we, in the field, don't expect this to be popular.Cylinder head torque procedures will change. Same method, but at the end, bolts are released and retorqued one at a time. Factory believes it has more consistent sealing.Finally: 150 NM is called out for the shaft nut on the ignition housing. It was originally 120NM. While the factory has not budged on this, numerous reports in the field show this is destroying the bearing on used housings and reducing clearance to the free wheeling gear to 0. Brand new housings do not experience this issue until after first installation and removal. It is strongly recommended to use 120NM and many distributors are ignoring the new torque because of this issue.That's the big points that I can remember.
Tom Baker Posted October 21, 2016 Report Posted October 21, 2016 Corey, it was nice meeting you there. I guess sometime I am going to have to stay and do the heavy maintenance too.
Anticept Posted October 21, 2016 Author Report Posted October 21, 2016 Yes it was an update. Couple items here persisted since initial, but I'm more worried about getting the news out. I did not realize that renewals were for the entire series of engines. I now hold training for 914 and 912iS as well. Since pretty much all but one person were renewing heavy, Eric put us on the differences with a 912iS on the last day and did the carbs separately with the new heavy rating. 2 years is still too short of a renewal period (nothing said in class isn't already taken from bulletins and letters) though. I would prefer 3-4. If rotax is concerned about getting updated info to people, it would be easy enough to make an online computer course that has to be taken between renewals as part of maintaining the iRMT. Taking a week away from operations to do these renewals hurts a lot.
cdarza Posted October 21, 2016 Report Posted October 21, 2016 I would like to thank both of you guys for all the information and help to the CT community. Both of you are great resources and help keep most of us on the proper path. We are lucky to have both of you on here. I second that
FredG Posted October 22, 2016 Report Posted October 22, 2016 Corey, thanks for the information. In a few years, there won't be enough room on the floats for all the dots needed to designate the newest version!
Runtoeat Posted October 23, 2016 Report Posted October 23, 2016 Corey and Roger, thanks. Due to the dire warnings about sinking floats, I bought a set of floats 2 years ago and they still set on the shelf. No problems, so far, with my floats from the factory on my 2006 CTSW. The unused new set is the 2 dots. Now, I'm not sure if these are the right ones to use if I need to replace my current ones?
Anticept Posted October 23, 2016 Author Report Posted October 23, 2016 They are fine. A lot of what rotax does is knee jerk reactions.
opticsguy Posted October 23, 2016 Report Posted October 23, 2016 No mention of the pins in the carb bowls working their way out and causing fuel leaks? I have/had 3 leaking pins on my two carbs.
Anticept Posted October 23, 2016 Author Report Posted October 23, 2016 Oh right! I did ask about that! The new bowls will have blind holes to fix the serverity of the problem. Existing pins should be checked for play by ligltly moving them. NO play is allowed. If it occurs, coat the bottom with loctite 243, 263, or comparable and lightly tap the pin back in. It is a taper fit. Plug the bottom with a drop of expoxy when you have confirmed there is no movement.
Runtoeat Posted October 24, 2016 Report Posted October 24, 2016 Is there a good place to purchase carb parts like bowl gaskets, etc., that has good prices? What is the newest bowl gasket material we should look for when buying?
Tom Baker Posted October 24, 2016 Report Posted October 24, 2016 Is there a good place to purchase carb parts like bowl gaskets, etc., that has good prices? What is the newest bowl gasket material we should look for when buying? I order mine from Leading Edge Airfoils. At the class they said there is a change in material coming for bowl gaskets. He said it will be a black plastic/rubber type material.
Runtoeat Posted October 24, 2016 Report Posted October 24, 2016 Thanks Tom. I had a suspicion that the gasket material might be changed. I'm going to keep a couple of them on hand.
FlyingMonkey Posted October 25, 2016 Report Posted October 25, 2016 Oh right! I did ask about that! The new bowls will have blind holes to fix the serverity of the problem. Existing pins should be checked for play by ligltly moving them. NO play is allowed. If it occurs, coat the bottom with loctite 243, 263, or comparable and lightly tap the pin back in. It is a taper fit. Plug the bottom with a drop of expoxy when you have confirmed there is no movement. Are the new bowls available as replacements? That might be a bit of money I'd be willing to spend.
Anticept Posted October 25, 2016 Author Report Posted October 25, 2016 Don't know yet. These don't seem to really fail as bad as 1 dots did so that's why there isn't a rush. EDIT: Oh you said bowls. Don't know yet.
FlyingMonkey Posted October 25, 2016 Report Posted October 25, 2016 Don't know yet. These don't seem to really fail as bad as 1 dots did so that's why there isn't a rush. True, but the failure mode is potentially much more catastrophic...
Tom Baker Posted October 25, 2016 Report Posted October 25, 2016 I think you guys are talking about 2 different things. Andy about carb bowls and Corey about floats. To answer Andy's question. Yes the new float bowl will be offered as replacements, but no idea on a timeline.
Anticept Posted October 25, 2016 Author Report Posted October 25, 2016 You're right. I misread and you posted just before I did.
Anticept Posted October 25, 2016 Author Report Posted October 25, 2016 Roger, did you think that one through ? If a pin comes out but it's plugged, the other float will keep the valve closed. It won't overflow... at least not until the plug gets dislodged.
Tom Baker Posted October 25, 2016 Report Posted October 25, 2016 Roger, did you think that one through ? If a pin comes out but it's plugged, the other float will keep the valve closed. It won't overflow... at least not until the plug gets dislodged. I don't think one float has enough buoyancy to keep the valve closed. If it did the float sinking problem would not cause an issue with a rough running engine like they do.
Anticept Posted October 25, 2016 Author Report Posted October 25, 2016 It generally should, but the float level will be a lot higher until the buoyancy force from one float compensates for the loss of the other, so the mix will be rich.
FlyingMonkey Posted October 25, 2016 Report Posted October 25, 2016 p.s. Just because you put JB Weld on the bottom hole won't keep it from leaking. That's just a feel good measure. If you block that hole the carb will overflow and come out the throat on the air cleaner side or wherever it can find an out. I don't understand. If the pin is still in the hole but leaking, the carb bowl is not going to overflow...why would it? The floats are still maintaining the fuel level in the bowl, just as if the pin was in place normally. That might be the case if both the pins came out and both floats were just rattling around in there, but to my knowledge that scenario has never happened. even in one came completely out, the other float would maintain the level. In the scenario I personally experienced, the epoxy on the bottom of the bowl would have kept gas from dumping all over my running engine.
Anticept Posted October 26, 2016 Author Report Posted October 26, 2016 I'm going to try this. I have a carb sitting on the bench. I'll put 4.4 psi fuel pressure on with one float and see if it will hold before overflow.
Tom Baker Posted October 26, 2016 Report Posted October 26, 2016 I'm going to try this. I have a carb sitting on the bench. I'll put 4.4 psi fuel pressure on with one float and see if it will hold before overflow. It may hold on the bench, but not hold while running.
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