FlyingMonkey Posted June 30, 2017 Report Posted June 30, 2017 The recent thread on locked brakes reminded me I need to get some spare pads to keep on hand. I can't find the Matco part number for the CTSW reline kit, does anybody have that handy (or memorized, Roger )?
WmInce Posted June 30, 2017 Report Posted June 30, 2017 3 hours ago, FlyingMonkey said: . . . "The recent thread on locked brakes reminded me I need to get some spare pads to keep on hand. I can't find the Matco part number for the CTSW reline kit, does anybody have that handy . . . "? Are you inquiring about the Matco Swiftline product?
FlyingMonkey Posted June 30, 2017 Author Report Posted June 30, 2017 The kit that includes the pads and rivets. I think the Swiftline is the one where you sent then the shoes and they do the work for you. I can put the pads on.
FlyingMonkey Posted June 30, 2017 Author Report Posted June 30, 2017 2 hours ago, aldowns said: WHLBRL-1 complete set I thought that was it, thanks for confirming!
Anticept Posted July 1, 2017 Report Posted July 1, 2017 Matco Part Number WHLBRL-1 Rapco part number RA066-10600 Aircraft spruce part number for rapco, 06-16956 New Cleveland brake part number 066-10600 Old Cleveland brake part number 66-2 These are all to the same specifications and can be interchanged with no issue.
FlyingMonkey Posted July 1, 2017 Author Report Posted July 1, 2017 Thanks Corey, I ordered two sets from Matco today.
cgrbu Posted August 7, 2017 Report Posted August 7, 2017 Hi Anticept... I have been getting the odd occasion of shimmy with the brakes applied near the end of the landing roll. I have checked the thickness' and my discs are at 4.14 to 4.36 and the pads 2.64 to 2.69 mm. They are the marc-ingegno type and I think my right main may be the problem. The pad is not nicely aligned or maybe it was the angle of the camera when the picture was taken. I have read some of the posts on the forum and when it is referring to 'pad glued on' is it the opposite side from the piston? I believe that the inside pad is held on by the 2 or 3 bolts?..... I see from the picture too that there is uneven wear on the pad, probably from that spring?... thanks for your input on 'radio static'
Tom Baker Posted August 8, 2017 Report Posted August 8, 2017 The shimmy is likely caused by the disk sticking on the pins. They need to be removed cleaned an lubricated periodically. As for the pads being crooked there are springs inboard from the piston that push the pads apart. The full length springs can be problematic, I normally shorten them. One other possible issue is a out of balance tire. I have also had a couple failures of the Aero Classic 4.00x6 6 ply tires that would cause a shake.
Anticept Posted August 8, 2017 Report Posted August 8, 2017 The shinmy can be a variety of issues. The first thing I would look at are the rotor screws. If they have a worn divot in the shank, that will definately cause shake. An out of balance tire will shake regardless of brake application. Finally, there is another issue that people aren't very well aware of, and this occurs with all rotors on all brake systems. I don't know what to call it. What happens is if you brake hard, you build up a lot of heat. Then when you come to a stop, if you hold the brake for too long, the brakes will cool and some of the pad will stick to the rotor surface from adhesion. You can usually faintly see edge lines. This spot causes high friction every time it passes the liners during brake application. It causes no harm, but is annoying. If you want it gone, you have to burn it off with agressive braking, then avoid locking the brakes during the cooldown (or you'll just make another spot). It takes finesse, because you don't need to be burning up the brakes while you do this. Just start with moderate braking, and get harder and harder until it stops, but don't destroy the rotor in the process!
cgrbu Posted August 8, 2017 Report Posted August 8, 2017 thanks Tom and Roger... am I correct in assuming that by taking out 2or3 bolts the pad closest to the piston will drop out? The spring would fall too but I would not re-install it as some other forum postings suggest. I will take out the pins and clean, do they need to be torqued to a certain value when put back in... 15nm?... Yes Roger, I would like to go with the Matco when the pads get a little more worn, would that mean I have to replace the master cylinder in the console with Matco too?
Tom Baker Posted August 8, 2017 Report Posted August 8, 2017 There are just screws that hold the pads in position. I am not going to quote torque from memory, but I would expect it to be about 90 in/lbs. You don't have to switch out the master cylinder, but the Matco puts ouy more force than the Marc Inegro.
FlyingMonkey Posted August 8, 2017 Author Report Posted August 8, 2017 If none of the other suggestions solves this, you can pull the disc off and lay it on a flat pane of glass on a table. Run a feeler gauge around the outside of it and that should show you pretty quickly if it's warped at all. If it is a warped disc, I agree with Roger that it's time for Matcos. You can probably finance half the cost of a Matco conversion for the cost of one Marc disc. I know from experience the Marc master cylinder costs 3x what the Matco does, just as one example.
cgrbu Posted August 8, 2017 Report Posted August 8, 2017 I have talked to Matco and I may have a complication with my Tundra tires, there is something with the mounting they are unsure about, plus I have the larger wheel pants for the tundra's
sandpiper Posted August 10, 2017 Report Posted August 10, 2017 I put Matco on my 2007 with Tundra years ago. No complication, never regretted it.
WmInce Posted August 10, 2017 Report Posted August 10, 2017 53 minutes ago, sandpiper said: I put Matco on my 2007 with Tundra years ago. No complication, never regretted it. Concur totally. Right after purchase, first thing I did to my 2006 CTSW was install Matco wheels and brakes. They are excellent. There is a fleetwide LOA available. Matco support is very good and installing new brake pads is a no-brainer (owner preventative maintanence) and very affordable. There is nothing not to like about Matco's.
cgrbu Posted August 10, 2017 Report Posted August 10, 2017 thank you everyone for the guidance... a few of my disc pins were making travel difficult so with cleaning and grease it is much better. Plan to convert to Matco in near future.
Anticept Posted August 10, 2017 Report Posted August 10, 2017 Your conversation to matco would require you to do some cutting. You have the older style gear leg without the clearance for the caliper. Not hard to fix.
cgrbu Posted August 10, 2017 Report Posted August 10, 2017 thanks Anticept, I hear it is about a 45 degree cut on the back side, in an inch or so from corner
Anticept Posted August 10, 2017 Report Posted August 10, 2017 I just trimmed my gear legs a little bit at a time until the brake caliper slid on without issue. Had to take a little off the bottom near the pin, and the 45 degree cut.
cgrbu Posted August 11, 2017 Report Posted August 11, 2017 Anticept... the factory may have already done this planning to put on Matco but found some marc-engegno on the shelf...the aircraft was built Oct 2010...just noticed this from earlier pictures
Anticept Posted August 11, 2017 Report Posted August 11, 2017 They should take the matcos easily. There might still be a little trimming required, but most of it is already done for you.
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