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Safety Belts - Revisted


DJ Todd B

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I have posted on this topic on CTflier in the past (including photos).  Several years ago, I installed a set of Crow 5-point harnesses (2" webbing) in my 2006 CTsw (Experimental registration) and I am very happy with the upgrade.  For the lap and shoulder, I used the original metal belt keepers (flat u-shaped metal brackets) to anchor the straps to the airframe.  The anti-sub belt is attached to an extra metal belt keeper bolted to the bulkhead under the seat with a second metal keeper just in front of the seat (so that the belt comes up from the floor just in front of the seat).  All keepers mounted to the bulkhead under the floor have either oversize washers or aluminum plates to distribute the load.  I have no idea whether the anti-sub attachment would withstand the load of a crash without failing.  I do believe that it is substantially better than no anti-sub belt, which is what I had with the factory harness.  

The aftermarket belts do not loosen. They do not slip off of my shoulders.  They are comfortable.  They do take more time to don than the factory harness (removal is simply a twist of the lever on the cam lock "buckle").  Overall, I would make this upgrade again in a second.

Captain obvious:  Seat belts are critical safety equipment.  Do not rely on my modification as the basis or justification for your modification.  I present my experience for your entertainment and not as a guide for your safety.  

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I contacted CROW yesterday and they said to send them some photos along with the lengths of what we already have so they do not have to re-invent the wheel.  Send it to info@crowsafety.com

Each harness was only going to be around $80

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I just had a conversation about this with a coworker who is also a semi-professional drag racer (second in the nation last year in his NHRA division).  He says he prefers the "latch and link" style harness buckle over the twist-style camlock.  He said the reason is that if you end up upside down, with the camlock it's possible that the weight hanging in the harness can put enough pressure on the mechanism that it cannot be opened.  His recommendation is for this harness:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vms-711001

This harness has bolt-in plates at the ends, but the harness can be unthreaded and the plates removed and threaded through our U-attach brackets.  It's infinitely adjustable in all directions, so no special measurements are required before ordering.  And identical harnesses are in use in 300mph top-fuel drag cars, so it's certainly strong enough for our our little airplanes.

My friend is going to look through his supplies and see if he has an old harness (they have to replace them every 2 years by NHRA rules) for me to try out.  If he doesn't, I'll just order one.  I can always return it if it doesn't fit or work out for some reason.

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2 hours ago, FlyingMonkey said:

. . . . he prefers the "latch and link" style harness buckle over the twist-style camlock.  He said the reason is that if you end up upside down, with the camlock it's possible that the weight hanging in the harness can put enough pressure on the mechanism that it cannot be opened.  His recommendation is for this harness:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vms-711001

I used those those harness locks in the military. They worked extremely well . . . even upside down!

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8 hours ago, FlyingMonkey said:

Which ones Bill?  The camlocks or the latch and link?  

Latch and link.

Super strong, no binding and can be quickly released.

Couple that to enertia reel shoulder straps and you've got a real winner.

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