Heater control Removal

[FlyingMonkey]

Hey all...

I need to remove my heater controls (cabin & carb heat knobs) to relocate them for my iFly panel upgrade.  I can't tell from the maintenance manual if the knobs come off the shafts, or if I will have to remove the cables from the back of the shafts and then pull them out.  Can somebody who has done it (Corey, Tom, Roger...) tell me the best way to proceed?

Thanks!

[Al Downs]

The knobs unscrew from the shaft.

[FlyingMonkey]

Hmm...they must be *tight*, I could not get mine to unscrew.  I was afraid to put too much more into it for fear of damaging them.

[Anticept]

There's a set screw in the back that holds the cable. You can mark them if you need to so you know where to put it again.

The knobs may be glued.

[Al Downs]

You can try some penetrating fluid. If they are glued it would require a little heat. Be careful if you are going to try with a pliers on the shaft an the knob. They do damage quite easily.

[Tom Baker]

I unhooked the cable from the back and pulled them out. Be careful if you do it that way, because there is a spring with a couple pucks that puts tension on the shafts and it will come flying out. Ask me how I know! Also you might need a longer cabin heat cable. I did on the CTLS. I don't know about the CTSW carb heat cable. Luckily I had saved a throttle cable when I had replaced a set and it was long enough for a replacement.

[FlyingMonkey]

11 hours ago, Tom Baker said:

I unhooked the cable from the back and pulled them out. Be careful if you do it that way, because there is a spring with a couple pucks that puts tension on the shafts and it will come flying out. Ask me how I know! Also you might need a longer cabin heat cable. I did on the CTLS. I don't know about the CTSW carb heat cable. Luckily I had saved a throttle cable when I had replaced a set and it was long enough for a replacement.

If the puck/spring assembly comes out, how hard is it to get back in afterwards?  I assume it's inside the plastic block, putting pressure on the shaft perpendicular to shaft travel.  I could see that as a real PITA to reinstall...

[Al Downs]

Not too difficult but you may need to find all the parts first if you aren't careful taking it apart.

[Tom Baker]

Like Al said it is not to bad. Hold your finger over the hole in the end of the block when you pull the first shaft out to catch the puck and spring. When you put it back together insert the first puck, the spring, and the second puck. Push it in and insert the shaft. It wasn't a big deal. Finding the first puck and spring took longer.

[FlyingMonkey]

Thanks guys.

 

[FlyingMonkey]

I need to buy a new cable stop for one of the heater control cables.  Does anybody know offhand the diameter of the cables, so I can get the correct one?  It looks like 1/16" and 3/32" are popular sizes, and those seem about right...

[Tom Baker]

Which one do you need, set screw type or crimp? The cable is 1mm. The crimps are 1/16" copper aircraft cable stops. You can but an aluminum stop at the hardware store, but you will need to drill it out for the cable to pas through it twice like the original. you will not need to drill out the copper stops. Aircraft Spruce number for the stop is 04-00899 .

For the screw type check your local hobby shop. A 1/16"  Dubro EZ Connector will work. Cut the pin off and file it smooth.

 

[FlyingMonkey]

22 minutes ago, Tom Baker said:

Which one do you need, set screw type or crimp? The cable is 1mm. The crimps are 1/16" copper aircraft cable stops. You can but an aluminum stop at the hardware store, but you will need to drill it out for the cable to pas through it twice like the original. you will not need to drill out the copper stops. Aircraft Spruce number for the stop is 04-00899 .

For the screw type check your local hobby shop. A 1/16"  Dubro EZ Connector will work. Cut the pin off and file it smooth.

 

Thanks, I need the screw type.