Animosity2k Posted December 29, 2019 Report Share Posted December 29, 2019 Does anyone know how much voltage I can actually pull from that outlet before I blow a circuit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Downs Posted December 29, 2019 Report Share Posted December 29, 2019 I have a 300 watt coming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Downs Posted December 29, 2019 Report Share Posted December 29, 2019 I definitely would not use the onboard battery system Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IndianaCTSW Posted December 29, 2019 Report Share Posted December 29, 2019 Not sure if it was mentioned but I was getting a lot of air coming where the door pin goes through the front. You could put your hand up there while in flight and feel air just rushing in by your feet. i ordered some 1 inch wide foam strips about a 1/4 thick about put a little piece over the hole and cut a slit for the door locking pin to slide through. It made the door a little harder to shut but I can reach down there now and not feel air coming in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animosity2k Posted December 30, 2019 Report Share Posted December 30, 2019 1 hour ago, IndianaCTSW said: Not sure if it was mentioned but I was getting a lot of air coming where the door pin goes through the front. You could put your hand up there while in flight and feel air just rushing in by your feet. i ordered some 1 inch wide foam strips about a 1/4 thick about put a little piece over the hole and cut a slit for the door locking pin to slide through. It made the door a little harder to shut but I can reach down there now and not feel air coming in. I’ve tried this but can’t get the damn door to shut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IndianaCTSW Posted December 30, 2019 Report Share Posted December 30, 2019 1 hour ago, Animosity2k said: I’ve tried this but can’t get the damn door to shut. It definitely made my door harder to shut. That’s why I only leave it on there in the winter. I found some pretty thin stuff on amazon. If you get it to work it helped mine quite a bit. Granted my door didn’t seal up great to begin with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okent Posted December 30, 2019 Report Share Posted December 30, 2019 Is there a max watt draw for the 12v port? I saw there was a 150 watt heater. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Baker Posted December 30, 2019 Report Share Posted December 30, 2019 Look at the AMP rating of the circuit breaker and multiply it by 12 and that will give you the average watts the outlet can handle. Or if you know the watts divide by 12. Your 150 watt heater will draw 12.5 AMPs. I am sure that is more than the 12V outlet can handle, and really more than the electrical system can handle even if you had the appropriate circuit protection and wiring. Remember the electrical system struggled with the original 100W landing light bulb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animosity2k Posted December 30, 2019 Report Share Posted December 30, 2019 2 hours ago, Tom Baker said: Look at the AMP rating of the circuit breaker and multiply it by 12 and that will give you the average watts the outlet can handle. Or if you know the watts divide by 12. Your 150 watt heater will draw 12.5 AMPs. I am sure that is more than the 12V outlet can handle, and really more than the electrical system can handle even if you had the appropriate circuit protection and wiring. Remember the electrical system struggled with the original 100W landing light bulb. So I really need to be looking for like a 100-125w heater which I would imagine wouldn't do much at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Downs Posted December 30, 2019 Report Share Posted December 30, 2019 I think the important thing is you do not try anything with the on board system. I will be trying a battery in a bag with a 300 watt heater next week. I will post results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okent Posted December 31, 2019 Report Share Posted December 31, 2019 Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animosity2k Posted December 31, 2019 Report Share Posted December 31, 2019 8 hours ago, Al Downs said: I think the important thing is you do not try anything with the on board system. I will be trying a battery in a bag with a 300 watt heater next week. I will post results. Please post pics of setup as well! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Downs Posted December 31, 2019 Report Share Posted December 31, 2019 will do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Downs Posted January 15, 2020 Report Share Posted January 15, 2020 Well my heater came and we test flew a couple of times. I used a 300 watt 12 volt heater with a 12 volt deep cycle battery. No improvement. Like I said in previous posts, all the holes are plugged and there are no drafts except a slight one in the tunnel between the seats. Not much draft there but there is a little. Cables run thru there so I am not comfortable doing too much there. At this point I would't recommend spending money 12 volt heaters and batteries. They just don't do the job. I currently have an engine out of one plane so it will give me the opportunity to completely go thru the entire system in that plane and double check for the no heat issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FastEddieB Posted January 15, 2020 Report Share Posted January 15, 2020 Thinking outside the box, would a heated vest and possibly gloves provide a solution? On a cold day on a motorcycle they do the trick - keeping your core and extremities warm goes a long way. And these are designed for motorcycles with charging systems I don’t think are far off from ours capacity-wise. Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Downs Posted January 15, 2020 Report Share Posted January 15, 2020 Some of us already used those. I guess I am just frustrated that the system doesn't work as it should. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IndianaCTSW Posted January 15, 2020 Report Share Posted January 15, 2020 I had to go through mine really well. I sealed all the holes up top. sealed the holes from door pins. That was a huge leak and I had to adjust the little door that opens and closes to turn the heat on under the engine. it still isn’t great at night but I can go up during the day with temps in the low teens and feel good. it took a lot of sealing though. i would definitely check the door pin holes though. Mine were letting in a crazy amount air Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Downs Posted January 15, 2020 Report Share Posted January 15, 2020 I have also checked the door pins. This can let a lot of air in. I use plastic bushings in the holes to account for any wear and installed new door gaskets. No air coming from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okent Posted January 16, 2020 Report Share Posted January 16, 2020 Any air coming through the seams where the ceiling meets the side walls? I noticed a lot of draft from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Downs Posted January 16, 2020 Report Share Posted January 16, 2020 I have that all taped off. No drafts anywhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Baker Posted January 16, 2020 Report Share Posted January 16, 2020 I'll add some thoughts. The CTLS has the little diffusers to direct the heat towards the pilot. The holes drilled in them are fairly small and restrictive. This is likely going to push most of the hot air up to the defroster vent. You could try removing the diffuser, but make sure the duct stays lined up. The down side is that it will blow hot air right on your foot. Maybe you could make a cup to direct the airflow. You could also block off the defroster vent to force more out the bottom. The warm air coming out the defroster vent is immediately cooled by the windscreen. Also having everything completely sealed will not lend itself to good heat. You will need to have airflow through the heat system to get heat in the cabin. With everything sealed up it will basically pressurize the cabin causing the airflow to stop. once the airflow stops = no heat. Try and find a way to get air to exit the cabin, so you can pull more heat in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Downs Posted January 16, 2020 Report Share Posted January 16, 2020 Is this the diffuser you are referring to? I have had those off and attached a fan to help pull heat in but still no good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pilot1950 Posted February 27, 2020 Report Share Posted February 27, 2020 Sorry if posted in wrong place. I have a quote for $2400 from place in Canada to fix holds in muffler on my 2008 CTLS verses over $4000 for new from Flight Design. Does the repair price sound right. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Downs Posted February 27, 2020 Report Share Posted February 27, 2020 What do you mean holds in your muffler? Do you mean holes? If so it may not be repairable. The type of metal used can get so bad it just keeps burning thru when welding. Rotax sells the muffler for $982. Still high priced and you will need to have it welded with spring holds in position. A lot cheaper than FD. I had one done a few years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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