Bill3558 Posted June 30, 2020 Report Posted June 30, 2020 I slipped the carb bowl clip off the port side to see if I could see anything in there. Couldn’t because there is a fuel overflow tray beneath it which prevented me from removing the bowl. So I clipped it back on and went flying. This morning I have a small puddle of fuel under the airplane. Tray was wet with fuel. Is there a wrong way to put the bowl back on? Here is a bad pic. You can see the drip starting. Any suggestions?
FlyingMonkey Posted June 30, 2020 Report Posted June 30, 2020 You probably didn't re-seat the gasket properly -- it's tricky, you have to run your hand all the way around the underside of the carb and make sure the gasket is in the groove all the way around before seating the carb bowl. If you twisted/crushed the gasket, you might need a new one. You really have to pop the carb off the intake socket and lift it up a bit to drop the bowl and get it out. If you are careful with it it doesn't disturb the attached cables or mess up the carb sync.
Warmi Posted June 30, 2020 Report Posted June 30, 2020 There is a video going into a bit more detail on how to do it ( I think Roger posted it years ago ). Also be careful with the gasket and floats ( make sure these are perfectly aligned ) - it is possible to introduce debris into to bowl if you are trying to force things ...
Tom Baker Posted June 30, 2020 Report Posted June 30, 2020 The video and Flying Monkey's advice are for the CTSW. From the picture it looks like you have a CTLS. Popping the carb out of the carb socket doesn't get you where you want to be. For the CTLS I normally partially remove the drip tray. Remove the 2 screws holding it on and kind of twist it out of the way. Don't try to remove the tubing. Be careful, because the trays can be damaged. Like the others have said it is most likely a gasket, but it could be that the float valve is not shutting off the fuel like it should. Also worth noting is that in my opinion it is a good idea to shut the fuel valve when you park for the night.
Bill3558 Posted July 1, 2020 Author Report Posted July 1, 2020 Tom, I loosened the tray as you suggested which gave me a little more wiggle room. I could see the beige colored gasket and saw no damage. I reseated the bowl and the leak stopped. I did a run up and all seems to be ok, no sign of further leakage and engine runs fine. In the future, If it ain’t broke, I’m not going try to fix it.
FlyingMonkey Posted July 1, 2020 Report Posted July 1, 2020 6 hours ago, Tom Baker said: The video and Flying Monkey's advice are for the CTSW. From the picture it looks like you have a CTLS. Popping the carb out of the carb socket doesn't get you where you want to be. Thanks Tom. As you know I only have CTSW experience and sometimes my answers are blindered in that direction.
FlyingMonkey Posted July 3, 2020 Report Posted July 3, 2020 53 minutes ago, Roger Lee said: It was Fly Monkey had my evil twin lock me up so he could catch up on post numbers, but I've escaped Curses, foiled again!
John Vance Posted July 3, 2020 Report Posted July 3, 2020 Hi Roger - nice to hear from you again! When pulling the carbs free of the sockets does that have any effect at all on throttle stops, balance, etc? I’ve been pulling the drip trays because I’m not sure it’s risk-free. 10 seconds is attractive, though.
FlyingMonkey Posted July 3, 2020 Report Posted July 3, 2020 Just now, Roger Lee said: Hi Andy, Nice to hear from you. Hope all is well out there. Look forward to seeing you and Bill again one of these days. Maybe we can get out there sometime NOT in the stormy season!
GrassStripFlyBoy Posted July 3, 2020 Report Posted July 3, 2020 As I'm new to the 912 and SW, and aware of bowl corrosion risks, I did a precautionary check last weekend. Both bowls had the white corrosion on bottoms, nothing was loose by finger picking at it. Cleaned both up and plan to order new bowls as I believe mine are either original or at least aged. Being my first bowl check, I performed it by pulling the carbs from sockets and that technique provided enough clearance. What I was not expecting is how hard (effort and finger clearance) it was to slide the bails off the bottom of bowls, and return them back to place after cleaning. I did not want to press / stress brackets for controls on carb, and to gain more strength it's temping to wrap more of your hand around carb components. I'm also not a fan of using screw drivers to pry things with the minimal clearance to bail and result in marking up the bowl with scuffs and scrapes. So, I took a cheap harbor freight medium size screw driver, heated the shank and bent tip 90 degrees keeping the blade parallel in line with shaft. This allows you to work from the bottom space between bowl and drip tray. Slip it between the bail and bowl, rotate it to pry / release one side of bail, slip under to the inside of bail and release it, and the bail is partially angled off the home detent. Then on bottom center of the bail with the gap started, slide that screw driver tip through opening and then pry against the bail and bowl to drive it up to 30-40 degrees at which point it becomes an easy hand effort to finish the removal. Reinstall was hand effort as far as I could comfortably close by fingers, then used channel lock pliers to squeeze the last bit tight. I plan to take a pair of channel locks and grind the ends to a shape for a special tool on this job. Put both of these tools in my bag kept in the plane. Curious what others have for tricks on this? Maybe I simply needed to pull the carbs up and further away from sockets? Regardless, I want a technique that is easy and repeatable, just like flying I think maintaining things should be joyful, I get as much fun from working on the CT as I do as flying it.
okent Posted July 3, 2020 Report Posted July 3, 2020 Roger is back! Good to see you here again. I go over to the Rotax forum occasionally so I don't miss any of your excellent posts.
Tom Baker Posted July 3, 2020 Report Posted July 3, 2020 I use a crescent wrench for help in removing the bales. I set the slot so it just fits over the bale. Place it near the bottom of the bowl and twist.
sandpiper Posted July 5, 2020 Report Posted July 5, 2020 A problem with the voltage regulator and charging the 912ULS in an RV-12. It took about 30 seconds to exhaust my knowledge about the problem. I’m not sure about the regulator they used to replace the old one.
FlyingMonkey Posted July 6, 2020 Report Posted July 6, 2020 On 7/3/2020 at 10:52 PM, Roger Lee said: Thanks guys. That's nice to say. I'm still here if anyone needs help. . Now you just need to buy a new CT! It made me very sad when you sold yours.
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