Heater linkage won’t stay open

[Jim Ragain]

2011 CTLS.  Heater works fine but won’t stay on. Cable just pulls itself closed after a couple of minutes. Was going to take cable out and lube it, but thought I should check here first to see if anyone else has had this problem. 

[Tom Baker]

The heater control pulls against a spring at the heater box. the spring is trying to pull the control closed. The CTLS without injection have a block that the cabin and carb heat go through. inside that block is a spring and a couple scrubbers that put friction on the two control shafts. If it is pulling closed you don't need to lubricate the cable. If you have lubricated the shafts behind the knobs that is your problem. A temporary fix would be to get a piece of rubber hose long enough to fill the gap between the knob and the panel. Slit the side of the hose and slip it over the shaft.

[Jim Ragain]

Thank you. 
 

[Roger Lee]

I used a plastic tube spacer for awhile and a clothespin, but my final solution was to take a pair of pliers and give it a squeeze on the shaft so it wasn't perfectly round anymore and had some friction in its mount. Worked like a charm.

[Duane Jefts]

Was that airplane modification approved by the manufacture and FD USA?  Since it uses engine heat does Rotax have to sign off on it too?