Sample 5 year Minimum Rubber Parts List

[CopaAir Maintenance]

Hey folks,

 

Just finished a 5 year rubber replacement for a customer and kept track of what parts were replaced, part numbers, quantities, etc.,. This is a sample for reference only - this is what we had to use for a 2005 CTSW - I'm sure variations exist.

 

For those who are paying attention, you'll probably note that there are no airframe hoses. This list is strictly the Rotax list of required replacement parts. We did replace some airframe hoses (as a matter of good practice) but didn't bother listing them as they will likely not be helpful to most folks.

 

I saw Roger's helpful list from CPS...hope this isn't too redundant.

Rotax 5 year list.pdf

[wbeyer]

Hey folks,

 

Just finished a 5 year rubber replacement for a customer and kept track of what parts were replaced, part numbers, quantities, etc.,. This is a sample for reference only - this is what we had to use for a 2005 CTSW - I'm sure variations exist.

 

For those who are paying attention, you'll probably note that there are no airframe hoses. This list is strictly the Rotax list of required replacement parts. We did replace some airframe hoses (as a matter of good practice) but didn't bother listing them as they will likely not be helpful to most folks.

 

I saw Roger's helpful list from CPS...hope this isn't too redundant.

Thanks for the info. I have the same job comming up soon

[westcoastoz]

It is interesting to see how prices vary for rubber components on the Rotax.

For example 1"(25mm) radiator hose is $2.50 per ft and yet the 17mm I.D. (#922 250) radiator hose is priced at around $18 per ft.....go figure??

[Tom Baker]

It is interesting to see how prices vary for rubber components on the Rotax.

For example 1"(25mm) radiator hose is $2.50 per ft and yet the 17mm I.D. (#922 250) radiator hose is priced at around $18 per ft.....go figure??

 

The 25mm hose is an airframe part not Rotax. I spoke with Oliver from Flight Design about hoses at the Sebring show. The 25mm Radialcord hose that they sell is the only one that meets rotax specifications for the installation. They have been trying to find a replacement that will work. I fear that the 2.50 per foot hoses that people are using does not meet the requirements. Tom

[Roger Lee]

Of all the hoses the 17mm hose is by far the hardest to come by. The other hoses can be purchased from other vender's for the same exact hose and not have the Rotax 5 middlemen, taxes and tariff mark up. The 17mm hose is very hard to find because there isn't as big a use for it in other applications and so far only Rotax seems to have it from the original source. You have to remember that Rotax is in Austria and all their parts for the most part come from applications that are used over there. So they are not always here in the US.

[Tad Olmsted]

I'm doing one now and I will post a final tally tomorrow. With prices, including labor.

[Tad Olmsted]

BTW, I found a lower head hose to water pump that had turned to jello. There is a reason for this!!!

[Tad Olmsted]

BTW, I found a lower head hose to water pump that had turned to jello. There is a reason for this!!!

[Roger Lee]

Tad,

 

It either has to be a bad production run or it was exposed to high heat too long next to the exhaust pipe or some harsh solvent too long. This is one good reason I use header wrap on my pipes. It cuts any radiating heat down on hoses and wires by as high as 70%.

[Tad Olmsted]

It was only one hose, but what would they all look like if the 5 year wasn't done. I haven't ruled out the Dex-cool 50/50 yet. It was at the water pump where all the cowling heat ends up, so the heat may have been a factor also. I like the heat wrap, no one here is using it.

 

Conclusion: 5 year replacement is money well spent!!!

[Roger Lee]

Hi Tad,

 

Most of the people out here have the header wrap and have had it for years and I have installed header wrap on a lot of CT's. I have had mine for 3 .5 years and never any issues. I know many others around the nation have it also. It is a fleet approval. If you land and pull your cowl off I bet you wouldn't touch your exhaust pipes without loosing some skin but I can touch mine. You use the 2" wide, get it at an auto parts store, it comes in 50' rolls at $45-$50. Cut the first piece at 68" long, dampen it. NOT WET, just damp. If you have a lot left over on your first wrap then cut the next pieces at 64". You will have plenty left over on the roll after you are done. Use hose clamps to hold it in place. As you wrap, only wrap over the last wrap by 3/8", and not more than 1/2" because then it will be too insulating. Do not over wrap any EGT senders. Leave a 1/4" space. If you over wrap these senders or have the wrap on the sender at all it causes the sender to give fluctuating readings. You wrap from the exhaust outlet at the heads and down over the knuckle on the muffler which is about 15". Wrap under the spring and use another hose clamp under the springs. This also stops any exhaust gas blow by hitting the rubber engine mounts . Then take it out and run the engine for 15 minutes and burn it in. It will smell like it's burning, but it's not. When you shut it down it may even smoke a little, it's normal. There is no reason to ever take it off.

Some say you have to remove it to look for exhaust pipe breaks during and inspection. Not to worry, they evidently haven't seen any Rotax exhaust breaks. I have seen better than a dozen broken exhaust. There will never be any doubt in an owners mind that he has an exhaust break. We have stainless steel pipes, which is good because they won't carbonize and can take more heating and cooling compared to steel. The thing about stainless is it is more brittle (more nickel and chrome), so if you have a break it just doesn't have a little crack under the tension, vibration and heat, it breaks all the way across and does it right now. The owner will hear it in the cockpit without any problems. The wrap being baked on is now brittle, too. If you ever developed a crack or any break the wrap will shred and come apart. There will never be any doubt of where the problem is located. So there is no reason to remove the wrap for an inspection. It will fall apart in your hands if you try to remove it and you would have to re-apply it.

08 10 17 FD Fleet Wide Manufacturer Approval for Thermo Tec header wrap.pdf

[Tip]

Hi Roger,

Do you remove the pipes in order to install the wrap?

[Roger Lee]

Hi Tip,

 

No you just get a nice low sitting chair to save the knees, relax and wrap them right in place. It may take you about an hour for all four exhaust the first time. The wrap is very water adsorbent so if you hold the piece you are going to apply under a faucet then make it a trickle and move it under the water stream some what quickly. Dampening only helps with the wrapping making it more pliable. Pull it tight as you wrap down the pipe. You will need a screwdriver or socket for the clamps, a pair of scissors and maybe a pair of needle nose pliers. The pliers help sometimes to help pull the ends of the wrap through down around the springs once in a while. This wrap application is quite easy and you really can't mess anything up. It just takes a little time.

[Tad Olmsted]

Hi Tad,

 

Most of the people out here have the header wrap and have had it for years and I have installed header wrap on a lot of CT's. I have had mine for 3 .5 years and never any issues. I know many others around the nation have it also. It is a fleet approval. If you land and pull your cowl off I bet you wouldn't touch your exhaust pipes without loosing some skin but I can touch mine. You use the 2" wide, get it at an auto parts store, it comes in 50' rolls at $45-$50. Cut the first piece at 68" long, dampen it. NOT WET, just damp. If you have a lot left over on your first wrap then cut the next pieces at 64". You will have plenty left over on the roll after you are done. Use hose clamps to hold it in place. As you wrap, only wrap over the last wrap by 3/8", and not more than 1/2" because then it will be too insulating. Do not over wrap any EGT senders. Leave a 1/4" space. If you over wrap these senders or have the wrap on the sender at all it causes the sender to give fluctuating readings. You wrap from the exhaust outlet at the heads and down over the knuckle on the muffler which is about 15". Wrap under the spring and use another hose clamp under the springs. This also stops any exhaust gas blow by hitting the rubber engine mounts . Then take it out and run the engine for 15 minutes and burn it in. It will smell like it's burning, but it's not. When you shut it down it may even smoke a little, it's normal. There is no reason to ever take it off.

Some say you have to remove it to look for exhaust pipe breaks during and inspection. Not to worry, they evidently haven't seen any Rotax exhaust breaks. I have seen better than a dozen broken exhaust. There will never be any doubt in an owners mind that he has an exhaust break. We have stainless steel pipes, which is good because they won't carbonize and can take more heating and cooling compared to steel. The thing about stainless is it is more brittle (more nickel and chrome), so if you have a break it just doesn't have a little crack under the tension, vibration and heat, it breaks all the way across and does it right now. The owner will hear it in the cockpit without any problems. The wrap being baked on is now brittle, too. If you ever developed a crack or any break the wrap will shred and come apart. There will never be any doubt of where the problem is located. So there is no reason to remove the wrap for an inspection. It will fall apart in your hands if you try to remove it and you would have to re-apply it.

 

Roger, this is good stuff. I can't tell you how many times I have lost my hide unplugging the landing light. I will offer it for now on to my customers. Thanks.

[FastEddieB]

 

No you just get a nice low sitting chair to save the knees, relax and wrap them right in place.

 

I just finished my Sky Arrow (photos to follow...) and I had a bit left over, so...

 

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