Removing Neuform Hub

[TheEngineer]

I'm attempting to install my new E-Prop, and remove the Neuform setup in the process. I have the Neuform hub's top plate unbolted, and all blades are off, but the bottom hub plate feels bolted on. Am I missing something? I thought it was supposed to simply slide off when the M8 through-bolts are removed.

[Tom Baker]

The extension can sometimes be stuck on the drive lugs due to a little corrosion. It is possible to press the drive lugs out through the extension, they need to come out anyway. I always leave the three smaller bolts installed, and the blades on when removing. You may need reinstall the blades and front hub to get the rear half of the hub off. Then press the drive lugs out through the extension.

[GrassStripFlyBoy]

Mine was a bit stuck, left the blades on and they allowed leverage and ability to wiggle giggle it off.  Lugs pressed out using a ball joint separation tool, probably lots of ways to tackle them, just what was handy and worked well.

Flew a second and longer hop on Saturday, static and WOT cruise both at 5500, with the 26.8 degree pitch.  Settling around 125-6 knots WOT, absolutely love it.  Also impressive is speed around 5 to 5.2k econo cruise.

[procharger]

I wiggled mine off with the blades on it will come off with a little effort.

[procharger]

Grassstrip what is your elevation. I am at 70 above sea level.

[GrassStripFlyBoy]

47 minutes ago, procharger said:

Grassstrip what is your elevation

780' on field, flight test was at 2500 MSL, and very cold temps these days.  Was maybe 30 degrees out when I flew Saturday.

[Tom Baker]

Here is my set up. I sourced from what I had laying in the shop. The plastic bushings I cut an a small lathe I have. The only extra that is not in the bag is a 11/32" deep well socket. It does take a little time, but it's not to bad.

[GrassStripFlyBoy]

Placed fork on back side of hub, center driver pushes out the lug until flush with hub, back it off and slip a small socket between driver and lug, push the rest of distance until lug is free. 

[procharger]

Mine tapped out fairly easy very light taps they moved. If you

have to really hit it make a tool. Perhaps a little heat with a

heat gun.

[GrassStripFlyBoy]

How many washers are located behind the upper most connections?  Appears you'd need to remove about 3 at top, (and likely ~1 in the middle), which is easiest path, but the lower's are not terribly hard if it comes to that.

Keep in mind the engine mounts are not solid, and things vibrate and bounce around, I'd suggest centering that up.

[GrassStripFlyBoy]

Yes, and my SW had 4 up top, 3 in middle and 4 at bottom.  Essentially, I was able to remove 3 up top, add one at bottom, fill the gap in middle, to bring the spinner to center.  I say essentially as I did a bit of side to side adjustment, as long as you're into it - work the side to side as well.

[Tom Baker]

2 hours ago, TheEngineer said:

Thanks again guys! Pulled the hub off today and was able to mount the new prop. Before I start pitching the blades and torquing everything correctly, any thoughts on this alignment? There's very limited clearance between the spinner and the top cowling. I realize shimming the motor mounts is ideal to correct, but will it be an issue to fly like this in the meantime?

 

IMG_9318.HEIC 1.27 MB · 13 downloads IMG_9320.HEIC 1.92 MB · 4 downloads IMG_9321.HEIC 1.65 MB · 6 downloads

For some reason the picture format doesn't agree with my computer of iPhone.