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Do I have to remove engine to replace starter motor?

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Hi, my starter has died. CT2K Do I need to remove the engine to get it out? It is the smaller 0.7iS version. Is there a knack?

It seems as if there will not be enough room to slide it back without impinging on the frame behind due to the studs on the front of the starter. 

I may give it a quick tap before hand just to make sure, before I remove but it shows open circuit so I think one of the 'brushes' has gone.


Edited by zerogravitas
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Just had this exact problem.

 It's a tight instal .. & unfortunately there's not enough clearance to the LargeFrame's gusset to replace the little black starter with the heavier duty gold one.

I wanted to confirm my tests that the starter was dead, so I took it out by loosening the LargeFrame-to-SmallFrame bolts (whilst supporting the weight of the engine with an engine hoist) & separated the 2 frames enough to extract the starter & thence confirmed its demise.

This, I must say, was all rather pointless, as in order to torque-up the LargeFrame-to-SmallFrame bolts when reassembling after new starter fitted, you need space between the Firewall & the LargeFrame.

Advice that I would now have given myself is:  save time & effort & take the LargeFrame off the Firewall.




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I replaced the starter on my CT2k a couple months ago:

1)      I took a bunch of pictures showing line routings, connections, and the number of washers under each of the large frame mounts (between the frame and the firewall). Each mount has a different number of washers, which are used as shims to properly align the engine's thrust vector to the aircraft.

2)      I suspended the engine from a hoist.

3)      I unbolted the large frame from the firewall.

4)      I pulled the engine a few inches away from the firewall, leaving as many wires and hoses attached as I could.

5)      I disconnected the large frame from the small one.

6)      I removed the starter (yeah, there was no way mine would slide off with the large frame in place).

7)      I replaced my old style “black” 0.7 kW starter with the same. I wish I could have installed the newer, higher torque “gold” 0.9 kW starter, but detailed measurements showed that it would not fit on my plane. There is a gusset in the large frame that’s right in the way. This has nothing to do with the block that extends aft from one side of the aft casting of the gold starters, which I am told can be chopped off for use on a Rotax. This was not the area of interference. And though the interference was slight, I didn’t want my starter motor jammed up against the engine mounting frame. Of course… your plane may be different. I believe there is some variation in the engine mounts between models (and maybe from year to year or even from aircraft to aircraft). Before taking yours apart, you might want to check the clearance between the back fo the starter and the large frame. The gold starter is 0.442" longer.

😎 I installed a new set of rubber motor mounts I got from Roger before putting it all back together.

Fortunately, I had some experience with this having pulled an engine off a CT and replaced it as part of a class I took at Lockwood years ago. Otherwise, I would recommend this work be left to professionals.


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Got this far... Today. Need to sort some stands and padding to hold aeroplane fuselage & tail up. Does anyone have an opinion on wether it will go forwards or backwards with 50 litres of fuel? I would think forwards as weight ahead of rear wheels. But I guess there is quite a moment to the tail.

Actually where is best to support the fuselage inbetween the front set of bolts and the 4 behind?

Got some muscle to help tomorrow.

Was going to have one strop on each intake but crane couldn't go high enough for my strop length.

"Oh, I wouldn't do it that way" comments welcome and may be heeded.

Thanks for help so far. It's gutting only been able to fly it twice in October after I passed in August. Field was soaked over winter. Then good weather comes and this happens.

Cheers, Martin.


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I have an old bar stool and a piece of foam I put under the tail about midway when removing an engine. I have not noticed an issues with or without fuel in the tanks. If I am not doing a wing pull when removing the engine I normally just clamp the fuel lines in the wing root and leave the fuel in the tanks. To accommodate this I replace the rubber lines in the wing root every other wing inspection, so they are on a four year schedule.

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Hi all thanks for your help. Day of pain, awkward working space (Plane Tetris) but Got the old one out and replaced it today and it works. Hurrah!

Joy was short lived as I seem to have developed a right flat since I saw it yesterday! Jeez, come on gimme a break!

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