Eddie Cesnalis Posted June 7 Report Share Posted June 7 I see amps ranging from +7 to -8 with no ryme or reason. Is this my Ducati voltage regulator failing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted June 7 Report Share Posted June 7 https://bandc.com/product/avc1-advanced-voltage-controller-14v-homebuilt/#installation-kit Mine was failing and giving me back oil pressure readings and would not reach above 12v in flight to charge the battery. Have had this band C regulator in for 2 years and yet to let me down. Full load and it still cranks out 14v. These are also used by folks with RVs as a manufacture approved direct replacement to the ducati. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted June 7 Report Share Posted June 7 Hi ED, If you have a shunt for the electric which is usually behind the pilot panel then remove the four wires. Use a Scotchbright pad and clean the four wire ends and the the shunt flat surface. Then apply some dielectric grease on the wire ends and or shunt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Cesnalis Posted June 8 Author Report Share Posted June 8 16 hours ago, Roger Lee said: Hi ED, If you have a shunt for the electric which is usually behind the pilot panel then remove the four wires. Use a Scotchbright pad and clean the four wire ends and the the shunt flat surface. Then apply some dielectric grease on the wire ends and or shunt Hey Roger, What are the chances my 07 CTSW has a shunt? I also have an erradic right side CHT. I just replaced the sending unit and the false readings continue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FredG Posted June 8 Report Share Posted June 8 My 2006 CTsw has a shunt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted June 8 Report Share Posted June 8 If you have a Dynon you have a shunt. Pur a wrench on all the grounds. Check the CHT spade connector and make sure it is snug on the sender. Some movement is normal, but it should not have any easy free movement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Meade Posted June 9 Report Share Posted June 9 My 07 has a shunt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Baker Posted June 9 Report Share Posted June 9 If you have an amp meter, whether it is Dynon or not, you will likely have a shunt. This prevents the heavy gauge wire carrying all of the current being produced from going to the gauge to be measured. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Cesnalis Posted June 9 Author Report Share Posted June 9 3 hours ago, Tom Baker said: If you have an amp meter, whether it is Dynon or not, you will likely have a shunt. This prevents the heavy gauge wire carrying all of the current being produced from going to the gauge to be measured. Is the heavy gauge wire carrying all the current, the wire from the BAT+ to the BATmasterswitch but on the other side of the switch? My battery was going stone dead in just a couple of days and replacing wire from battery to master switch eliminated the draw. I just viewed my D10 without starting up. The erradic ampmeter readings from 14+ to 8- were happening even without running the engine and without running any other equipment. Doesn't this suggest it isn't the Voltage Regulator causing all the fluctuation? I'm more confused now. I was not only seeing the erradic amps but low volts too (11.9) Because my battery drew down yet seeing the fluctuation when not running makes me thing it isn't real. Thanks for the thoughts so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Cesnalis Posted June 9 Author Report Share Posted June 9 21 hours ago, Roger Lee said: Pur a wrench on all the grounds. Can you list 'all the grounds'? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Baker Posted June 9 Report Share Posted June 9 1 hour ago, Eddie Cesnalis said: Is the heavy gauge wire carrying all the current, the wire from the BAT+ to the BATmasterswitch but on the other side of the switch? My battery was going stone dead in just a couple of days and replacing wire from battery to master switch eliminated the draw. I just viewed my D10 without starting up. The erradic ampmeter readings from 14+ to 8- were happening even without running the engine and without running any other equipment. Doesn't this suggest it isn't the Voltage Regulator causing all the fluctuation? I'm more confused now. I was not only seeing the erradic amps but low volts too (11.9) Because my battery drew down yet seeing the fluctuation when not running makes me thing it isn't real. Thanks for the thoughts so far. Yes, the heavy gauge wire does go to the master switch. The shunt is so you don't have to have an instrument capable of handling all of that current. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted June 10 Report Share Posted June 10 First the battery, under the starting solenoid, the middle engine mount, up above the engine mount just to the right of the parachute bridal and this one goes through the firewall and you must remove the passenger side panel to get to the other side nut. There is one more by the battery and for the life of me I can't remember, but you'll see these. Just follow the negative wire off the battery. This whole process will only take 10- 15 minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricB Posted June 14 Report Share Posted June 14 When I got my 2008 CTLS many of the engine readings on the EMS were erratic and the former owner (who had taken it for maintenance) just learned to "live with it". First - I cleaned the big 32 pin connector on the back of the EMS. From an electrical engineering point of view, putting 32 smallish pins in a vibration environment is a bad idea. A good contact cleaner liberally applied is a good thing. Also assure good mechanical contact. Next - cleaned and tighted all wires at the ground bus mentioned earlier in this post Next - recrimped and tightened all CHT and EGT wiring Next - I replaced my oil pressure sender - fixed that issue Next - I replaced the ammeter shunt - fixed that issue Also - replaced the voltage regulator as suggested by the low voltage readings at engine idle WHEW After all that - readings on the EMS have been stable and reasonable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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