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How do you remotely control your Tanis preheater?


Ed Cesnalis

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I'm having a Tanis pre-heat system installed and I wonder what the best approach is for turning it on without driving to the airport.

 

Maybe a simple timer that runs it from 3:00AM till 10:AM if it is plugged in.

 

Most convenient would be a remote from my smart phone but I guess that would cost another internet connection.

 

What do you guys do?

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That's perfect Paul, thanks

 

Alot of Cirrus guys use them. They go for $299 but Phil the owner often runs group buy specials for $250. He may have one going on now so you may want to email him if interested. Aviation Consumer Sept 2013 issue just covered this topic and gave switchbox a good review. Of course where you fly, I think your first step is making sure you have good Sprint signal coverage.

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I have a Reiff heater and put it on a daily timer, but was concerned last winter, when the weather was below zero and not conducive to flying, about heating and cooling the engine that much on a daily basis without flying. Does that invite condensation damage and water in the oil?

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Doug,

 

I would say no because that cycle isn't introducing any moisture, at times it might take surfaces above dew point and that is a positive. Otherwise temps would drop below dew point but that would be the default condition anyway.

 

Paul,

 

 

Sprint signal coverage? Thanks for the heads up on that, looks good per their coverage map.

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Sprint signal coverage? Thanks for the heads up on that, looks good per their coverage map.

 

Doesn't it always. I think he can do a sim card from any carrier, but Sprint is cheapest at $10 every three months so I think that's why he uses them.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Gentlemen, I'm going to put forth some experience in this thread about leaving these pre-heaters on.

 

I've seen first hand what happens to people who leave their airplane plugged in all the time. A person with a Dakota had to replace a camshaft because fretting corrosion caused by moisture got to his engine parts after 6 months of being left on the heater. He was flying it weekly. Another mechanic friend of mine who runs a shop says he sees moisture damage in engines like this a lot.

 

Aircraft engines are extremely sensitive to moisture. You do not want water of any kind suspended in your oil or on your parts! The oil provides oxidation protection because it leaves a film on the engine components after each run, and this is also why your manuals recommend running the engine every so many weeks, in fact, all engine manufacturers recommend this. More importantly, it provides lubrication! Water is a horrid lubricant, and displaces oil, so it increases wear on the engine.

 

If you choose to use a heater, you should plug it in the night before your flight, or use things like the aforementioned Switchbox. Don't leave it on all the time, unless it's flown daily.

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Here is an article in AvWeb by Mike Busch that not only describes but explains some of the considerations of preheating an engine.

Bottom line, use multi-point heaters like the Tanis and Reiff (not just oil pan heaters):

 

http://www.avweb.com/news/maint/182846-1.html?redirected=1

 

I urge you to read the whole article, but if you don't have time, here's an excerpt on the topic at hand:

 

"Leave it on all the time?

 

There has been considerable controversy about whether or not it's a good idea to leave an electric preheating system plugged in continuously when the airplane isn't flying. Both TCM and Shell have published warnings against leaving engine-mounted electric preheaters on for more than 24 hours prior to flight. However, these cautions are really applicable primarily to single-point heaters such as oil pan heaters.

 

The concern of TCM and Shell is that heating the oil pan will cause moisture to evaporate from the oil sump and then condense on cool engine components such as the camshaft, crankshaft or cylinder walls, resulting in accelerated corrosion of those parts. However, if the entire engine is heated uniformly by means of a multipoint heating system, or because the engine and propeller are covered with insulated engine and prop covers, such condensation is very unlikely to occur.

 

In fact, using an insulated cover and a multipoint preheating system that is plugged in continuously is one of the most effective methods of eliminating internal engine corrosion, particularly if the aircraft is kept in an unheated hangar rather than outdoors. If the entire engine is maintained above the dewpoint, condensation simply cannot occur."

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I had a good phone meeting with the CEO of Tanis last week, and we are going to start cross-endorsing each other's products .

 

We definitely believe in the Tanis system over all other heating systems, and the SwitchBox is something he is going to start aligning with the Tanis brand.

 

I asked him about their thermostat technology and leaving it plugged in all the time (vs remote switching).. he said its 100% ok to leave the system plugged in all the time.

But... Tanis is still recommending SwitchBox, since the Engine Mfrs dont agree in their manuals.

 

P

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Here is an article in AvWeb by Mike Busch that not only describes but explains some of the considerations of preheating an engine.

Bottom line, use multi-point heaters like the Tanis and Reiff (not just oil pan heaters):

 

http://www.avweb.com...ml?redirected=1

 

I urge you to read the whole article, but if you don't have time, here's an excerpt on the topic at hand:

 

"Leave it on all the time?

 

There has been considerable controversy about whether or not it's a good idea to leave an electric preheating system plugged in continuously when the airplane isn't flying. Both TCM and Shell have published warnings against leaving engine-mounted electric preheaters on for more than 24 hours prior to flight. However, these cautions are really applicable primarily to single-point heaters such as oil pan heaters.

 

The concern of TCM and Shell is that heating the oil pan will cause moisture to evaporate from the oil sump and then condense on cool engine components such as the camshaft, crankshaft or cylinder walls, resulting in accelerated corrosion of those parts. However, if the entire engine is heated uniformly by means of a multipoint heating system, or because the engine and propeller are covered with insulated engine and prop covers, such condensation is very unlikely to occur.

 

In fact, using an insulated cover and a multipoint preheating system that is plugged in continuously is one of the most effective methods of eliminating internal engine corrosion, particularly if the aircraft is kept in an unheated hangar rather than outdoors. If the entire engine is maintained above the dewpoint, condensation simply cannot occur."

 

As long as the entire engine block is kept adequately warm, I'll agree with this assessment.

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Another thing with the Rotax as compared to Lycoming and Continental is we have a dry sump. When the oil is heated the moisture just goes up and out the breather, and not into the engine to start corrosion.

 

Some of that oil remains in the bottom of the engine scavenger. It might not corrode as quickly as a Continental or Lycoming, but it can still play a part. It's a 20k piece of metal that your life could be hanging on, let's be safe with it!

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  • 2 weeks later...

I was just talking about heating the oil and the fact that heating the case is not as important for the Rotax. If you only heat the oil tank the oil left in the engine would not create a moisture problem because it is not being heated.

 

I just checked the preheater we use on our CTs, and it has a case sump heater too. I am not worried about it because of the flight school environment (daily flights) but it might be a concern for someone else.

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