mocfly Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 How much are they gonna jack you for the cooler? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Cesnalis Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 How much are they gonna jack you for the cooler? The part number is a FD number assigned to the 'custom cooler'. I haven't learned the cost or capacity yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Cesnalis Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 Dave Armando 9:47 AM (10 minutes ago) to me More than $ 2,000.00 plus shipping from GmbH. I don't have a number for that. It will take awhile for an answer. So if you wish to go forward let me know because they are swamped over there and I don't want to slow them down if you think the small amount of extra cooling is worth the costs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mocfly Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 Gotta love the spare parts cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S3flyer Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 Probably cheaper to go E-LSA then buy direct from the vendor (and not through FD). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Cesnalis Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 FD, as usual wants to go the extra mile to help me out. Very impressive company. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Cesnalis Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 ''Floats'' has a bigger one on his float CTSW. The rad is the same thickness and height but longer factory installed I can't match up that partnumber yet but if its same thicknes and height but longer it would likely be 12.99" wide and 5.75" tall and for 220hp-330hp engines or handles about double the btu/hr. Next step might be a thermostat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mocfly Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 CT, Before you go and spend 2k, I think you should measure the air pressure behind and in front of the oil cooler at the face in 3 places. Left, middle and right. The pressure readings along with your airspeed and cooler angle will give you the needed numbers to calculate the btu/hr loss that is actually occurring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anticept Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 I can't match up that partnumber yet but if its same thicknes and height but longer it would likely be 12.99" wide and 5.75" tall and for 220hp-330hp engines or handles about double the btu/hr. Next step might be a thermostat. A thermostat will do a lot for your plane's engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Cesnalis Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 Looks like I can get away with less than $200 for the part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 Ed, It might be bigger, but your opening isn't. If it isn't totally exposed it may be a fruitless en devour. Plus your plane isn't different from everyone else so I still believe you have a problem you haven't found yet or all of us would be over heating. A bigger cooler may be masking your other problem or not solve it at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Cesnalis Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 When my climb is restricted my enjoyment becomes limited. This is affordable and the most promising fix that i can see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 It might not fix the problem and you have the oil cooler to deal with which is welded to the radiator. If part of the larger radiator is blocked then it won't help. That means modifying your cowl, which will most likely disrupt the air through the cowl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Cesnalis Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 This is a series 6 Setrab cooler with 9 rows and almost 12" wide. It is as big as the coolant radiator and it is what FD chooses when the do float installs or designs that tow. I don't intend to alter my cowl just take advantage of the extra capacity where I can. If my problem is elsewhere it will remain and I can cross this off my list. It is reasonable to assume there is a design issue here because I know of many other owners that have the same issue. I can either start with a new cooler or detatch my current one with a dremmel tool and then re-fasten with the same tack welds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacques Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 don't even need to tack weld it. here is the factory install Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyingMonkey Posted November 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 I got lost...is it really going to cost $2000+ or did you find an alternative supplier for the cooler? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Cesnalis Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 http://www.improvedr...oler-p-271.html Its the 19 Row Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 It isn't a design flaw. You have to wonder why we have so many in the southwest with hotter temps than most and we don't over heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Cesnalis Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 It isn't a design flaw. You have to wonder why we have so many in the southwest with hotter temps than most and we don't over heat. I don't think you can say it isn't a design flaw at least until you have identified the fix. Rans and Vans have the same issues and even FD has a higher capacity cooler for the same 100hp Rotax engine. I say its a matter of relief and the 8-10-12,000' initial climbs that are often needed in the far west place a larger demand on our CTSWs than you see in Phoenix. Now that I have confirmed that I can get to redline in just 5,000' of climbing or just waiting for take-off in Vegas I know I have to fix it or suffer the downside from running beyond the permissible temperature range. The spending isn't over, next I will either need a thermostat or find the reason my cooler still isn't working like it did when the plane was new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mocfly Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 Try putting one of these on the back and let us know what you find.The fan produces a high-volume air flow while drawing 2.5 A. The fan has been tested for 1,000 hr in 230 deg F air, and thus can be expected to be very reliable. It is so effective that the oil temperature does not go above the green 190-230 deg F range even if ambient air temperature climbs past 100 deg F. Indeed, with the fan running, the oil temperature rarely goes beyond 210 deg F. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FastEddieB Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 Do you think that fan provides benefit once in the air? My Sky Arrow has a similar one, but the checklist calls for it to be turned off before takeoff. My impression was that it would not help, and might hinder, once in the air with 60k+ air going through the cooler anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mocfly Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 Eddie, You are wrong. And it does not hinder as when it is off no rotation occurs as measured. Why don't we let CT spend a couple of dollars and try it. I mean its a lot less than spending 2000.00 I haven't seen your configuration and can't comment on its design effectiveness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Cesnalis Posted November 16, 2013 Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 Chris, Do you have an LOA for your fan? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FastEddieB Posted November 16, 2013 Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 Eddie, You are wrong. Well... ...alrighty then! In any case, this is what 3i has to say about my DUAL fan install (click for larger image): Fundamental difference may be that mine mount in front of the oil and coolant radiators. And, remember, I'm a pusher, and so the diagram above is sort of "backwards"! My assumption has always been that, running, they interfere with the free flow of high speed air through the radiators, and that's why they get turned off in flight. Maybe your location behind the radiators makes them less disruptive. Don't really know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mocfly Posted November 16, 2013 Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 Ed, The CT has a water radiator mounted in front of the oil cooler. Doesn't help in free flow. High speed? Is that measured in Mph? Pressure? Differential? The key here us to get a larger volume of air thru the radiator without sacrificing drag. It's a quick and cheap way to see if the issue is air flow or something other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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