How To Replace Drip Tray?

[FlyingMonkey]

34 minutes ago, Madhatter said:

When I repair or make any part for any aircraft if it doesn't look professional I throw it out and start over. I have too many friends in the business who will trash me over poor quality. Sometimes it takes 3 or 4 times to get it right. 

Some here, I had a bin full of rejected parts on my Sonex project. 

I don't really have the tools to make a dished tray like the fuel drip tray, at least not with the sides welded up correctly.  I have zero welding ability.

[FlyingMonkey]

27 minutes ago, Towner said:

Well, mine work for now which keeps me flying. I’m sure I’ll eventually replace them, but thankfully I don’t expect anyone to look under my cowling before that (except me). I’m kinda interested in trying to make some myself. I don’t have much sheet metal experience, but it sounds like fun. They’ll probably look bad too and I’ll order some new ones, but little projects at the airport keep me out of trouble away from the airport!

My busted one has been going strong with a JB Weld repair for well over ten hours.  It might last forever that way, but it looks like crap and I start to feel guilty...   

[Roger Lee]

The best way to keep all drip trays on all FD aircraft is to stabilize the tray against vibration and to spread any vibration out to the entire tray vs just the attachment points. The easiest way where they are held in by screws is to use a 1" flat washer top and bottom on the outside screw. Then take a 1" flat washer and trim it flat on one side to it can fit up against the water tube where the second screw is top and bottom so the tray bracket is sandwiched. Then out at the tip of the tray there is a drilled hole. Use a plastic wire tie and secure it around the engine frame. This keeps the tray nice and solid and greatly lessens the damaging vibration. 

On the LS model that has the Rotax airbox and the drip tray hanging down on the bottom of the arm you can do the same thing. make a doubler plate out of some aluminum and drill the two holes in it like the downward bracket has. Now the tray is again sandwiched in between a wide bracket and not just the two small screws that allow this tray to vibrate badly at the attachment point. Since I have done these fixes I don't ever get broken trays.

 

p.s.

If you have unbroken trays it's far better to take care of this now vs waiting for it to break.

[Towner]

Roger, I did use your washer method when reinstalling the trays. Both of mine cracked right around the bolt, so I think the washers will prevent this from happening again.

[Roger Lee]

Right around the screw is where all FD trays break. It's just too small a surface area and offers no support.

[Jim Meade]

I'd think the way to reduce vibration is to construct a mount that always "floats".  That is, isn't held rigid anywhere.  Shouldn't be too hard to modify.  Drill out the front holes and use bushings so the bolt head doesn't touch the tray plus Roger's idea of a zip tie or safety wire to hold up the other end.  Of course, it wouldn't be strictly stock.  Caveat, I have not done this myself, just thinking out loud.

[Warmi]

16 hours ago, Jim Meade said:

I'd think the way to reduce vibration is to construct a mount that always "floats".  That is, isn't held rigid anywhere.  Shouldn't be too hard to modify.  Drill out the front holes and use bushings so the bolt head doesn't touch the tray plus Roger's idea of a zip tie or safety wire to hold up the other end.  Of course, it wouldn't be strictly stock.  Caveat, I have not done this myself, just thinking out loud.

Sting planes come with something like that ( similar to rubber engine mounts ) installed at the factory.