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Taxi/ Landing Light


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14 hours ago, airhound said:

Is the G3 plug and play for the Parmetheus?

Whelen told me that the new light will be 100% plug and play. Ordered the other day and it's out for delivery today! Hopefully Sunday I can find time to run up to the hangar and plug it in! I'll report back. I went with the landing light over the taxi per Whelens recommendation. However my reason for wanting a new light was my inability to see around easily when trying to taxi at night and not landing however she said this is so much brighter taxi should no longer be an issue. Thanks everyone for all the help. 

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On 12/2/2022 at 11:52 AM, Tip said:

Be very careful when trying out your new bulb without installing it. I did that one time and shorted out the headlight circuit, popping the breaker. The 12 volts to ground, destroyed my PS intercom.

Odd that it messed up your intercom. One thing I noticed on my SW is the center panel switches get buss power to the switches by daisy chaining and then each switch goes to the circuit breaker and then to the appliance, completely backwards. There is no circuit protection from the buss to the circuit breaker. If it shorts there, either the main circuit breaker pops or the wire burns. I have never seen this on any aircraft and I've done a lot of wiring, it is not acceptable. I changed all my CT wiring to what is correct, buss to breaker to switch to appliance. I am going to assume your intercom is on your light circuit so if it is wired in series with the light then they both become fuses when shorted.  The CT as a whole has some of the worst wiring I have ever seen on any aircraft, so I have redone all mine, and without the spade connected circuit breakers. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

The main reason I got the drop-in LED replacement was to lower the electrical load on my system.  I think this lamp pulls little more than 1 amp.  I like having the light on when I am in the pattern or approaching the field regardless of time of day.  As a sport pilot I personally don’t land after civil twilight, however, I would recommend modifying the lower cowling and incorporating the larger and brighter LED for actual night landings in the CT. 

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12 hours ago, RichardT said:

The main reason I got the drop-in LED replacement was to lower the electrical load on my system.  I think this lamp pulls little more than 1 amp.  I like having the light on when I am in the pattern or approaching the field regardless of time of day.  As a sport pilot I personally don’t land after civil twilight, however, I would recommend modifying the lower cowling and incorporating the larger and brighter LED for actual night landings in the CT. 

With a drop-in LED SORAA landing light in my CTSW, I leave mine on all the time.  They have a 35,000hr life.  Mine comes on right after engine start and lasted that way for seven years.  It only died because it got fried when I had a voltage regulator failure and runaway voltage.  I replaced it for about 35 bucks and expect the new one to outlast me.

IMO, if you have an LED landing light there's no reason to not just leave it on to increase your overall visibility, unless you're blinding somebody or in a cloud/fog/mist. 

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On 12/5/2022 at 9:23 PM, Animosity2k said:

Half way there! Can’t decide if I need the rubber ring tbst came w the new light

Hmm, question:  How do you take the lower cowl off, do you have to unscrew those wire terminals every time?  I might put in some kind of quick connect on those wires so you can just pop the wires off without tools.

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3 hours ago, FlyingMonkey said:

Hmm, question:  How do you take the lower cowl off, do you have to unscrew those wire terminals every time?  I might put in some kind of quick connect on those wires so you can just pop the wires off without tools.

Just clip the wires and put spade or bullet connectors in.

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  • 6 months later...
On 1/16/2023 at 5:59 PM, Tom Baker said:

I don't think I have seen one that didn't have connectors. I have swapped out the bullet connectors for a Deans Ultra plug on a few in the past.

Did you use the standard Ultra connectors or the high temperature ones? Did you solder the wires to the tabs or use another method? Anything special to deal with possible vibration issues? Any problems since you installed them?

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9 hours ago, BravoFoxtrot said:

Did you use the standard Ultra connectors or the high temperature ones? Did you solder the wires to the tabs or use another method? Anything special to deal with possible vibration issues? Any problems since you installed them?

Yes, Dean's Ultra, soldered, and it was still working well the last time I saw the airplane.

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